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Help interpreting SMOG TEST Results! (Fail)

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. . . and here we go again; Smog Test Woes! Before I go off the handle, lol . . . thought I’d ask for some help decifering my results. Maybe I can address some of these setbacks myself?

Anyway, it had the usual knock which was caused by retarding the timing in order to pass CA smog restrictions the last time. This new guy who ran the test wasn’t told this so maybe I just need a good ole fashion timing adjustment. He mention possible EGR issues but that is only 3-4 years old so again, who knows? Mentioned a possible catalytic issues but that’s only 4 years old. Lastly, he said there was some kind of fuel leak within the gas tank which is news to me? Seems I addressed this the last time it was smogged.

Any thoughts would be appreciated! . . .and yes, I’m aware CA emissions SUCK!
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When was your last test? I'm assuming you passed it. What were the NO levels then?

The EGR is easy to test.


Once the EGR is confirmed to be working, I'd start looking for a vacuum leak.

Why did you have to retard timing last time? That could be causing excessive heat in the combustion chamber, which will increase NO levels.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It was last tested two years ago. (See those results below). The numbers are like night and day so I’m shocked, angry, numb? I find it difficult to believe they are that different when all I did was give it a complete major tune/up! It was retarded for the high end test but not 100%. I just remember he said he did it.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
These are the ones I pulled out. They weren’t too bad but #5 (2nd from left) was cracked at the tip which explained some odd symptoms. The plugs now are brand new!
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Your low CO and HC levels indicate your CAT is working fine.

I'm guessing you have a vacuum leak causing a lean fuel mixture. It could also be an exhaust leak. Or, your cooling system may not be functioning properly.

Something is causing excessive heat in the combustion chamber(s). It could also be from carbon build up in #5, if that plug wasn't producing a good spark for quite a while.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys. So …
1. check and clean EGR (just to make sure
2. Check and replace any vacuum leaks
3. Check O2 sensor (clean)
4. Check for leaks in exhaust to CAT (donut?)
 

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On my jeep i failed the evap emissions section because of cracked/broken hoses in the drivers rear quarter panel. The roll over valve and evap valve are located there. Also check the charcoal canister vacuum line hookups in the drivers fender by the clutch zbar. My rollover valve was damaged and had to find a used one on ebay to replace it. Even after I fixed it, the hose clamps loosened up over two years in between smogs and I just had to tighten them up. Just be careful because the evap and rollover valves are NLA and you typically need to find them used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Here is the EGR valve. It was clogged and I couldn’t get it to push it at all. Thoroughly cleaned and was able to move slightly. I will check stepper motor and the vacuum canister lines. One looks brittle.

The hood lock got stuck so threw a wrench in my day. I need to replace because the smog nazi somehow jammed the tumblers. I need to find a none flat key type lock; like the vending machines have!
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Last time I had mine inspected it---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Didn't cost me a dime,

all of my neighbors passed.

I justed used all of the money I saved for

Grand Youngin' Christmas presents.

I just bought a Moonpie out of the vending machine at work,

the wrapper said it was full of bad stuff, but cancer was not in the list?

We still have room over here!

Not sure of your taste's, I found you a nice "typical" place to live.


You could swing by and we can take all of that useless crap off of your baby!

----JEEPFELLER

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
EGR moves ever so slightly and holds air. I can’t believe how caked and dirty everything was. Replaced several vacuum lines which were as brittle as Saltine crackers, lol. Dabbed a little grease in each tube end just to ensure a good seal. Still moving forward with checking and testing!!!
 

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EGR moves ever so slightly and holds air. I can’t believe how caked and dirty everything was. Replaced several vacuum lines which were as brittle as Saltine crackers, lol. Dabbed a little grease in each tube end just to ensure a good seal. Still moving forward with checking and testing!!!
Can you imagine what your intake and cylinders look like from all that dirty exhaust recycling thru them?

That's why I chose to delete the EGR on my 360 build. Unfortunately, I know that's not an option for you because of the smog Nazis.

Hopefully getting that EGR freed up fixes your NOx problem.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Yeah, I can only imagine. I’m almost tempted to remove the intake and have it professionally cleaned. I would entertain blocking that EGR after I retest. I can always put it back on in two years, lol. I have a can of “Top Engine Cleaner” that I want to run through after I block the EGR. Wonder if that would help? Is there a source that sells an EGR plate?
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