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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I was avoiding the relatives and I did this:

I found this in the hose coming from the valve cover



I put this together on the bench. I used an air compressor filter and removed filter, all I want is a trap - vapor still needs to get through. I wrapped the brass nipple threads in yellow teflon tape for gas applications. It's what I had lying around and it seemed like a good idea.



Had to cut the "mushroom" off the air box and run *really* hot water on the heater hose and I got it to slip on. I also washed the whole top of the airbox and dried it thoroughly to get out all the accumulated sludge.



The installed setup. Before I put it on I tested it by blowing lightly into one end of the tube. I think more than enough air can move through. It is more restrictive than the stock setup to some degree.



Zip ties. Which sucked and stripped out too fast but everyone was closed so I had to make do.



My biggest mistake. A $5 hose clamp assortment from Harbor Freight. These things sucked. I can't even get some of them to loosen now. My removal point is the far right hose clamp before you get to the airbox hose clamp. I used dish soap to lube the smaller hose to get it to fit. The smaller hose was fuel line I believe and the larger is heater hose.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
So this morning after about thirty miles I opened the hood to see how everything was working.




When I took it off I found clear liquid in the bottom that smelled faintly of fuel.



Even after cleaning the hose from the valve cover the gunk is already back. I'm glad I got this in place. I replaced my air filter since my old one was fouled and it seems to run smoother. I just filled up the tank so we'll see if it made any MPG difference in a week or so.
 

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To fix the problem for good, you take off the valve cover and trim the breather tubes (front and rear) a bit, as it sits too low from the factory, and tends to suck up oil into the breather hose and land on the air filter.

Also make sure your rear breather line is not clogged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
To fix the problem for good, you take off the valve cover and trim the breather tubes (front and rear) a bit, as it sits too low from the factory, and tends to suck up oil into the breather hose and land on the air filter.

Also make sure your rear breather line is not clogged.
Thanks, I had heard this elsewhere but never confirmed.

I don't want to take the valve cover off right now since if I do that I want to replace a lot of things at the same time that I don't have the money for them yet so I'm trying to hold off.

My goal here was to spend less than $15 and have a fix that will last until I redo all the gaskets and my exhaust header. It's such a simple mod that pretty much anyone can do it with practically no tools. I used a flathead screwdriver, a pair of scissors and a hacksaw.
 

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Thanks, I had heard this elsewhere but never confirmed.

I don't want to take the valve cover off right now since if I do that I want to replace a lot of things at the same time that I don't have the money for them yet so I'm trying to hold off.

My goal here was to spend less than $15 and have a fix that will last until I redo all the gaskets and my exhaust header. It's such a simple mod that pretty much anyone can do it with practically no tools. I used a flathead screwdriver, a pair of scissors and a hacksaw.
Ya its all good. Im all for temporary fixes because Im a procrastinator when it comes to gaskets and stuff. :D But the fix looks good.

And the trimming of the baffles was a dealership TSB fix back in the day to fix the problem.

Or another option is find a 00 or 01 valve cover which have better breathing capabilities. But if youre like me, Id rather have the RENIX cover. :thumbsup:
 

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Hey, thanks for this info/ write-up.
I been wanting to do something about that hose for awhile.
I also need to replace some gaskets... Money
 

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The factory fix for this was to remove the valve cover. Remove the two triangular shaped pieces that are mounted with three screws under the cover. Cut off a good 1/2" from the bottom of them. Then, measure up 1/2" from the new lower edge on the rear facing side and drill a 1/2" hole there. De-burr and clean thoroughly with carb cleaner or similar. Reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
cruiser is right. this is an old thread and now i know better.

not to say that i'm not still using mine...they are a great way to visually check how the engine is doing. now that i've used compressed air to clear out the line to the rear of the valve cover and fixed a few vacuum leaks my blowby problem has stopped. short of installing a "window" into the airbox this is the easiest way i can think of to see if the problem continues. both my XJ and the gf's both push extra gunk if we're low on oil/being lazy about changing it.

granted i still haven't taken the valve cover off yet :eek:. yes i know, i'm a bad person.
 

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Add this to the reasons why I love the internet

The factory fix for this was to remove the valve cover. Remove the two triangular shaped pieces that are mounted with three screws under the cover. Cut off a good 1/2" from the bottom of them. Then, measure up 1/2" from the new lower edge on the rear facing side and drill a 1/2" hole there. De-burr and clean thoroughly with carb cleaner or similar. Reinstall.
THANK-YOU! THANKS! MUCHO GRACIOUS! APPRECIATE IT! THAT is EXACTLY the information I was looking for!
 

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I have been noticing something - directly related, but not exact topic .....

- I thought I was just leaking oil, but the last tip I brought it up to 'Full' on the Dipstick -
I noticed several hours later, on a cross-state drive, that it looks like that last quart of oil just blew out through the rear, front tubes and around the filler cap. It is running down the head-cover sort of like the flame paint-jobs they did in the 1950's and '60s. (Streaming toward the back - prob from wind, fan, etc)

ALSO -- this happens when I fill it above the 'low' mark - actually it seems to prefer being a little below the 'Low' mark on the Dipstick.
Note: My transmission / transfer-case mount cross-member is 1" lower than stock.

SO, WTF is going on?
- Is this common when lowering the trans mount (for lift)
- Do I have the wrong Dipstick tube?
- Do I have something worse?
- What question should I be asking?

pic is previous work
 

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