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Discussion Starter · #1,002 ·

I had this glass cut, stamped and toughened to my templates during the Covid lock down before I had even chosen what colour I was going to paint the Willys! Could only get green the same as the windscreen, so that was fortuitous.


Problem I found was the extra weight of the large glass over the templates was too much for the universal electric windows I had fitted. So had to pony up the extra dollars for the SPW kit that runs the made in US GM electric motors. They lifted the glass no problem. Wanted these in the first place but are twice the price, now I have still bought them and the price of the first lot! I didn't use their included mounts and used thick strap and a nylon spacer for the bottom mount.


Top mount was just straight through the skin. With the bottom one angled away to follow the glass track, it left just enough room to still run the door handle rod past.


I clear coated the inside window garnish as didn't want it waxed like the body where I might rest my arm and also use window cleaner that would remove the protective wax. I did the same on the windscreen trim as well. I bent the inner weather strip up, M896 - CRL Flexible Unbeaded Weatherstrips for Jeep 1950-1965, International Truck 1971-1975 and White Truck 1952-1966, to follow the around the bottom corners just like I did on the outside.


Rather than the factory staples, I used small rivets. I pushed them in and pulled the felt out from under the head.


Then compress the rivet in place and the felt falls back over the head to protect the glass.


Paint the head with a paint pen and it disappears from sight.


Fitted the garnish with stainless screws. I had lengthened them 4.5" and shortened the height by 2" a while ago now to suit the extra length in the doors and chop.


Not sure if the curve up at the ends show inside and out? The door lock is from the Grand Cherokee donor.


Front bottom corners follow the garnish likewise.


Looks less green once installed, but will tie in with the paint colour nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,005 ·

Back on the door cards. I'm using x-mas tree trim clips that were from my Jeep XJ Cherokee door cards. I like them as they can be added after the upholstery has been done as they screw in, so long as you have cut the slots for them beforehand. They can also be removed and replaced if one should ever break unlike the black one shown.


No fasteners will be seen at all once done. The armrests bolts are accessed through the open areas in the top and screw into the door skin via threaded inserts. Noticed I also have the door card going around the speakers so I could run as small a speaker grille as possible.


The top of the armrest pad is also held down by the same x-mas tree clips and also by an original screw at the bottom of the door pull pockets


Drivers side also has the memory seat switch which is programmed for my wife and I.


The taper on the armrests was worked out to give plenty of room for your elbow to rest on it, but also to make it parallel with the seat to compensate for the cabs wedge shape.


I mounted the armrest at the same height as the centre console so it feels like you are sitting in an armchair.
 

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It looks absolutely beautiful, Marcus.
I like those reusable XJ fasteners. The black ones are a single use item. To remove you're better to just cut them off with diagonal cutting pliers, push the old shaft through and replace with a new one.
Keep up the awesome work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,008 ·

More office furniture getting upcycled! Found a bin that had been thrown out along with the printer inside.


Unrolled it to see if I could use it for some door sill caps.


Using art dies so I can set my own bead width and spacing.


In the end I thought it would not be hard wearing enough over time as was only 0.6mm-24g thick and there was a lot of defects left in it.


So some might remember me collecting some left over stainless shelving from the local gourmet hamburger place and turning it into my letter box. Stainless Steel Letterbox 1. Well I had one left so it will be cut up for the door sill caps instead.


I wanted to group the beads close together like they are on the outside of the doors and cab etc. My small bead dies don't allow that but the art dies can be as close as 3mm-1/8" apart.


I did one side of the beads first before swapping the dies and doing the other side of them. Using art dies mean you have to do twice as many passes to make your beads. Twice the chance of not keeping them perfectly straight!


To finish off the beads I bored a hole the width of a bead in the end of some reo and then cut half of it away. I drew a line half the width of the bead forward of where I wanted them to end and hammered down onto my steel table.


Can make them more crisp by using a punch the same width as the bead and hit from the underside as well.


Helps remove the distortion from the end. The beads were stretched by hammering them from behind using some steel flat the same width as the bead. It came out perfectly flat afterwards.


The last fold could not be done in the folder as it has a 6.5mm-1/4" arc to it to match the door face. So it had to be started by using a tipping wheel and then finished off mostly by hand over a stake dolly. It was very hard to move as it is 316 stainless 1.2mm-18g.


I had to do a lot of sanding to get all the marks out from years of use in a kitchen. I left a brushed finish as much more practical to look after with something that will get scuffed all the time getting in and out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,011 ·
Nice work on that, Marcus. Have you always had that large metal brake? I don’t recall seeing that before, and it is a beast.
Good observation!
I only got that a few weeks ago and had been looking for one to use to build the bed. Never found one I could afford so had to do it all by hand as you saw. Of coarse now that I finished the bed, one gets offered to me! Always the way but still will be useful when I get to making the hard bed cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,015 ·

I wanted a bit more hotrod rake as was near level. So machined up some 1/2" spacers from some high density plastic that I had used as a cat perch.


Placed them above the top coil isolator.


Another thing I wanted to address was the tone and volume of the SRT Corser exhaust. It came with these 4" outer diameter resonators under the floor. As even the exhaust pipe was already hanging just below the frame rail, I didn't want to loose even more ground clearance when fitting bigger ones.


Fortunately I had kept some 'dog leg' kick ups that were originally just in front of the rear most resonators. By using these in front of the 6" outer diameter Magnaflow straight through mufflers, I could have the bigger mufflers level with the bottom of the pipes.


I cut the resonators off leaving the original factory weld on the cross over pipe. I then use that weld to melt into the new kick ups with the tig. Just a tack in this picture.


This shows how the new bigger mufflers don't hang below the bottom of the pipes at all, so actually have more ground clearance that the original setup.


I fitted the old V bands on the other end also by re melting the factory mig welds with the tig.


Still going to be a lot of work to fit it back in as now the rear outlets are higher than before and the whole thing is longer by the length of the kick ups.


I ended up pulling out the whole system and redoing it so it sat just above the frame rails. Also the whole tail pipe had to be reworked to meet the higher outlets.


So it is all back in place with fingers crossed that it is quiet enough to pass the EPA 96 db. limit while giving a deeper throaty tone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,016 ·
I hope your pup has better days. It sounds like he's been a good long friend. You can't ask for more than that.
He is doing much better and can now get around a couple of blocks. Still favouring the leg but now out of pain at least.
 

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Are those sound requirements due to the age of the vehicle Marcus?

You have probably already said, but does it get titled/inspected as the original title, the WK donor standards, or as a newly titled/built vehicle?

Hoss
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,018 · (Edited)
Are those sound requirements due to the age of the vehicle Marcus?

You have probably already said, but does it get titled/inspected as the original title, the WK donor standards, or as a newly titled/built vehicle?

Hoss
Here it gets titled to the frame which will be 1948. We are allowed 96 db. for early vehicles and 90db for 1983 on.
 
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