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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I've been on the forum for a while, reading posts and soaking in everyone's knowledge. I have owned my 2008 CRD Limited for a few years and have done a few things as I go.

Black WK Club #168

Continually turning the odometer: 227,000+ miles

I could use a better build/jeep name, as I really don't have one yet. Suggestions?
So it was suggested to go with the name Quinn. I prefer female names and couldn't come up with something I liked. I have a little Armored Batman figure on my dash and a friend suggest Quinn, like Harley Quinn from Batman/Suicide Squad.

Completed:
CB-Engineering CCV Hose Mod
DPF Delete and GDE Hot Tune
Turbo Res Delete using the CAT hose
Painted entire bottom with Chassis Saver - not happy, needs to be sand blasted and redone
Volant/Donaldson filter for use with my Rodeo 3.0L Diesel snorkel (Omlete's build)
Pinch Weld and Rear Fender roll to fit 2014 Rubicon w/ BFGs
TSA Aluminum Front Skid
Amsoil: Engine Oil, Front & Rear Diff fluid, T-Case Fluid
Body match painted the grill, window trim, parking sensor trim, and door trim.
Front Diff bushings replaced: HHP Solid rear pinion and Jeeperf Poly for the other two
Installed my 'Franken'-OME lift: OME struts/shocks with Rusty's Springs *swapped rear springs for HD OME.
Full EGR Delete
Full Swirl Valve delete including hot tanking the intakes
Ruby/Sinister Red Tail Light housings w/ VLEDs V3 Tritons Bulbs (WORTH IT!!)
Black Bezele Headlight housings w/ HIR Bulbs
CBE inspired intercooler upgrade
Custom front bumper; not complete at this time

In Process:
Complete Amsoil transmission flush

Future:
4xG Belly Skid
4xG Sliders
Air Compressor
20" Amber LED Bar between front tow hooks
Roof/Windshield LED Bar
A-Pillar LED Pods
Rear LED Flood lights
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
For the lift...
I have the Rusty's Front & Rear spring set. I picked them up on their clearance for $100+shipping. My original plan was OME HD with Bilsteins, but I can't help but save a little money here or there.
After I got the Rusty's springs, I ended up finding a deal on NIB OME Shocks & Struts for $400 shipped. I also have all new coil isolators for front and rear.

What else do you guys think I'll need? I'm only shooting for a 2-2.5" lift with the springs, at this point I don't think I will need anything more than that. Should I look at the RRO or Rusty's front strut trim spacer? I haven't seen many people talk about using the Rusty's Springs, so I am not sure where I will end up for height. I would like to keep some decent wheel travel up and down, so far the 2014 Rubis I have on don't need any spacers, so I might go without just so I don't have any fender rub issues when compressed.
RRO Front UCA
JKS or 4xG Discos (optional?) if no disco, then replace sway bar bushings
RRO or Rusty's Track bar, any opinions?
Replace the LCA on the front
Replace rear Control Arm bushings
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is my weekend over this past summer taking everything off Jeep I could so I could get under and coat it with Chassis Saver. I used a 4" brush to paint it on. I thought about buying a cheap sprayer, but then I'd have to tape off wire connectors and have a weekend where I could spray it outside. You can see the crap from the fuel tank skid plate. Diesels have a steel tank, so I wanted to get the off and cleaned also.

I prepped everything according to POR15 instructions, but used the Chassis Saver vs the POR15 coating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The weekend I took off from work to complete this project it ended up raining a little saturday afternoon. I painted this laying on my back in my parents garage. I got 2 heavy coats on Saturday and a final coat on Sunday. I will be washing the bottom this spring, so I will check to see how it held up, and recoat as necessary.
If it does need to be recoated, I will try and find a small sandblaster to hit everything quick to help the new coat to adhere. I think I will also see if I can find a sprayer instead of using a brush this time around. If it's a nice Saturday, I could get 2-3 coats on over a single day with a sprayer. I will also be spraying more Eastwood Internal Frame Coating onto all the frame holes I can get the nozzle into. The Eastwood is a green color, so that would get done before putting the black chassis saver on. I did order 6 cans and sprayed heavily into the frame rails as much as I could already.

Other note, I took the wheel well liners off and coating up onto the backside of the panels as far as I could reach. I want to keep this thing looking nice and running for a long while yet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
CAT Hose turbo res delete. I did this during my above Chassis Saver painting weekend.
Cat part number is 190-5794. You can see the hose is longer than needed, but fits well once cut. I bought t-bolt clamps from NAPA and tightened it on. Have had no issues with it popping off even under heavy load and boost while wheeling or on the dunes.
 

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whats the bonus to the turbo res delete? ive got an 08 crd as well and am looking to learn as much about power and longevity mods as i can..look forward to seeing what you have in store for the WK
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
whats the bonus to the turbo res delete? ive got an 08 crd as well and am looking to learn as much about power and longevity mods as i can..look forward to seeing what you have in store for the WK
Supposedly it gains you 1-2mpg, a little more turbo noise, and faster spool. I honestly didn't notice any of those things. It does allow a smoother flow of air from the turbo to the intercooler, so it can't be all that bad. I think I paid around $65 for the CAT hose for a local dealer.
 

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For the lift...
I have the Rusty's Front & Rear spring set. I picked them up on their clearance for $100+shipping. My original plan was OME HD with Bilsteins, but I can't help but save a little money here or there.
After I got the Rusty's springs, I ended up finding a deal on NIB OME Shocks & Struts for $400 shipped. I also have all new coil isolators for front and rear.

What else do you guys think I'll need? I'm only shooting for a 2-2.5" lift with the springs, at this point I don't think I will need anything more than that. Should I look at the RRO or Rusty's front strut trim spacer? I haven't seen many people talk about using the Rusty's Springs, so I am not sure where I will end up for height. I would like to keep some decent wheel travel up and down, so far the 2014 Rubis I have on don't need any spacers, so I might go without just so I don't have any fender rub issues when compressed.
RRO Front UCA
JKS or 4xG Discos (optional?) if no disco, then replace sway bar bushings
RRO or Rusty's Track bar, any opinions?
Replace the LCA on the front
Replace rear Control Arm bushings
My Rusty's front springs are still sitting at 22.5" after about 7/8 months. Everyone said they would sag really bad but they've been fine so far. I have the matrix and the OEM front engine skid on mine.
The rear sits kind of low for my tastes (similar to the RRO spacer lift). I'd get a 2" or so spacer to stack with the rear springs and you'll definitely need a track bar if you do that.

I still am running stock upper control arms and I think about it every time I drive it, definitely spend the money on the aftermarket ones for piece of mind.

Looks awesome so far! I love those rims and my boring AT tires look so sissy compared to the BFGs
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My Rusty's front springs are still sitting at 22.5" after about 7/8 months. Everyone said they would sag really bad but they've been fine so far. I have the matrix and the OEM front engine skid on mine.
The rear sits kind of low for my tastes (similar to the RRO spacer lift). I'd get a 2" or so spacer to stack with the rear springs and you'll definitely need a track bar if you do that.

I still am running stock upper control arms and I think about it every time I drive it, definitely spend the money on the aftermarket ones for piece of mind.

Looks awesome so far! I love those rims and my boring AT tires look so sissy compared to the BFGs
Thanks! I've been wondering if I will need a spacer on the rear. I guess I could always add it later in the summer if I choose. I think I'll get the front trim spacers though, just to raise the front a 1/2" or so.

I do switch out my wheels/tires for my stockers in the summer for street driving. Spending $800 every other year on tires seems a little silly. The longest the BFGs stay on are through the winter.

My understanding is this will be similar to a OME MD kit. I read that the Rusty's spring rates are little more than OME MD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Great work! Glad you got the tank rust under control before it became a problem.
Me too!! After seeing the posts about tanks leaking I decided it was a good idea to check mine, clean it and coat the outside. I would still like to coat the inside. POR15 makes an internal tank coating I think I will use. It'll tank a whole weekend to do it, since diesel is a little more oily than gas, cleaning the inside will take a few times. That will probably be a 2017 project.
 

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This is awesome you're crushing it with these mods. When do you plan on doing the DPF delete? Definitely interested in seeing what kind of MPG you get once you do. Any plans for turbo res pipe or intercooler?

Do you plan on using the lower LED bar as a fog? I'm wondering what will suit better, a spot or beam light for such an application.
 

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Technically yes. In the real world the difference is very small due to one regen every 700 miles with a stock setup. This is about a 2% gain in FE over a tank and we were not able to statistically measure a difference during tune development.
 

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We would not expect any additional fuel economy gains with the dpf delete. FE gains are achieved with the base GDE ECO tune.
Just to be sure I'm understanding correctly, the MPG's for EcoTune with DPF and Ecotune with DPF delete are virtually the same? If so, that's surprising considering much better FE improves in every other diesel once the DPF/SCR/EGR is ripped out/shut off and tuned to reflect such
 
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