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Death Wobble

1760 Views 35 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  Whitewullff44
Help! I have a 95 Grand Cherokee Ltd w/5.2 v8. Full time 4WD. I started getting a couple of episodes of death wobble. I replaced, in order, tie rods and ends, front track bar, front ball joints, lower front control arms, back upper and lower control arms, back track bar, front and back sway bar links and the front brake pads and rotors. I thought that I covered it.
I just had a dw attack on a rough chunk of pavement. What am I missing??!?
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I've seen quite a few people post that they traced the death wobble problem to the front track bar attachment bracket at the frame. The holes were wallowed out. I think the common fix was to drill it out so it's round and use a sleeve to reduce the hole down to match the bolt (i.e., the original hole diameter).

Other people replaced the steering stabilizer, but the general "expert" consensus is that while that might help, it is not the root cause of the death wobble.
 

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That sucks none of those parts fixed your issue. I'm having the same thing with my 97. I bought new lower control arms, track bar, stabilizer all tie rod ends, drag link, sway bar bushings. I went to install the track bar and couldn't break loose the bolt on the frame. I didn't want to break the bolt because I've read its a real pain in the *** to cut the bolt out. I think I'm going to let me friend that owns a shop install the parts and hope it fixes my issue.
 

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x2! While the axle is in the vehicle. Axle out of the vehicle, not so hard.
My images show the axle detached. I was able to use a clamp and my oversized sockets to press out / in the old and new parts.

It would be MUCH more difficult w/ the axle in normal position. Still not fun w/ the axle removed, but much easier.
 

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Even if its dead on that won't cause his problem.
Correct if the alignment is dead on it won't cause the problem. If it's not dead on it could absolutely cause a problem. Toe fighting itself, incorrect caster not recentering the steering, etc. People all the time install budget boosts and then cry about death wobble because they didn't have it aligned and the toe is way out.
 

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My images show the axle detached. I was able to use a clamp and my oversized sockets to press out / in the old and new parts.

It would be MUCH more difficult w/ the axle in normal position. Still not fun w/ the axle removed, but much easier.
I did mine with the axle in the vehicle. No fun at all! The replacement bushings did not include the metal outer sleeve. You had to reuse that part. So I drilled out the rubber as best I could with the bushing still in the axle. Then I burned out the rest with a propane torch while trying not to catch the Jeep on fire. I have a six inch lift so that was probably the only way I was able to have the room to do it. The new bushings went right in with a coat of grease and a hammer. It works but is not the best solution.
 

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The Moog bushings, links and control arms are a good way to restore the vehicle so it handles like new.

Here are the parts I used.
Moog K3166 Front Upper Control Arm Bushing, Kit Includes Both Bushings
Welcome to the forum.

This reply shows the parts I used to restore normal handling.

A quick survey shows the front upper control arm bushings might not yet have been swapped. Note those are a butt pain to replace.





My images show the axle detached. I was able to use a clamp and my oversized sockets to press out / in the old and new parts.

It would be MUCH more difficult w/ the axle in normal position. Still not fun w/ the axle removed, but much easier.
I did mine with the axle in the vehicle. No fun at all! The replacement bushings did not include the metal outer sleeve. You had to reuse that part. So I drilled out the rubber as best I could with the bushing still in the axle. Then I burned out the rest with a propane torch while trying not to catch the Jeep on fire. I have a six inch lift so that was probably the only way I was able to have the room to do it. The new bushings went right in with a coat of grease and a hammer. It works but is not the best solution.
Note that the Moog K3166 bushings I used include the outer metal sleeve.
 
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