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Im having an issue with my 1990 xj it idles fine and has great power but when accelorating it will occasionly start stalling. It never completly dies while driving but occasionally will while sitting at a light or going into a turn . I have changed fuel filter , cleaned IAC , and sea foamed , the issue is not as bad as it was before but its still there . I am planning on taking the TB completly off this evening and giving it a thorough cleaning . However i have never dug this deep into any engine ever so im learning as I go and was wonder if the 3 star head bolts in the throttle body under the breather hose is what needs to be unbolted to achieve this? If cleaning the TB doesnt solve the issue im assuming its the fuel pump .
 

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thanks , i have checked these to see if they were on good and they were fine , i will check again when i get home though . Possibly they could be dirty i guess . Could i just wipe down the posts if they are dirty? SHould i pull each lead off and then stick back on ? If these are loose how can i tighten them ? Just squeeze them with pliars or do i need to replace?
 

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I wouldn't think it's the throttle body.
Check the connectors at the fuel pump ballast resistor and make sure they're good and tight.
Thanks cruiser54, I made sure the wires were connected securely . I did notice that one of them is a bit looser than it probably should be however I didnt experiance the stalling issue nearly as bad until i started getting to higher speeds on the highway and hitting some bumps . Im not sure if the ballast is the issue but after i hit the bumps it started stalling worse than ever . I actualy thought it was not going to come back on , on its own but it did. I am off tomorrow and plan on getting a new set up and replacing the one i currently have. I have a question on were the wires connect to, is there a harnness or are they hardwired into something ? Every picture ive ever seen is always just showing them tied into the ballast itself .
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Thanks cruiser54, I made sure the wires were connected securely . I did notice that one of them is a bit looser than it probably should be however I didnt experiance the stalling issue nearly as bad until i started getting to higher speeds on the highway and hitting some bumps . Im not sure if the ballast is the issue but after i hit the bumps it started stalling worse than ever . I actualy thought it was not going to come back on , on its own but it did. I am off tomorrow and plan on getting a new set up and replacing the one i currently have. I have a question on were the wires connect to, is there a harnness or are they hardwired into something ? Every picture ive ever seen is always just showing them tied into the ballast itself .
Bypass the resistor. Do you have a multi-meter?

I'm wondering if you have something going on with the fuel pump and/or the internal hose.....
 

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Bypass the resistor. Do you have a multi-meter?

I'm wondering if you have something going on with the fuel pump and/or the internal hose.....
I have bypassed the resistor and just connected the two wires together. I can here the whining noise of the pump but this is not an issue for me. The stalling problem still exsists when I get up to speed on the highway . Today while test driving I noticed when I pulled away from the light it seemed to take a dive towards dead but when I let off the gas it came back to accelerate. . I went to buy a pump while I was out test driving and noticed that the issue was still there. I will change it out and see what happens. I will check back asap. Thanks for your suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I have bypassed the resistor and just connected the two wires together. I can here the whining noise of the pump but this is not an issue for me. The stalling problem still exsists when I get up to speed on the highway . Today while test driving I noticed when I pulled away from the light it seemed to take a dive towards dead but when I let off the gas it came back to accelerate. . I went to buy a pump while I was out test driving and noticed that the issue was still there. I will change it out and see what happens. I will check back asap. Thanks for your suggestions.
Bosch pump only unless you just love changing pumps once a year.
 

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Bosch pump only unless you just love changing pumps once a year.
The pump has been changed and the problem still remains! I was unaware to use a Bosch pump and bought what orielys had . Precision pump . I'm trying to upload a video of what it's doing but not sure if I'll be able to . I may not have enough posts yet to be able to post things like that yet .
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
The pump has been changed and the problem still remains! I was unaware to use a Bosch pump and bought what orielys had . Precision pump . I'm trying to upload a video of what it's doing but not sure if I'll be able to . I may not have enough posts yet to be able to post things like that yet .
Can you test the voltage at the pump with the engine running?
 

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Yep. Disconnect the battery ground connection while doing so and clean that connection out with contact cleaner while you're at it.

I think you would have good access that you need.
Alright, I'm about to go for it.
Going to get me a 1/4" deep socket, latex caulk and contact cleaner now, per your suggestions :)

As for latex caulk, I already have "acrylic latex caulk plus silicone". I don't know about latex caulks and the pros/cons of other ingredients (like acrylic and silicone), so is the one I have okay, or should I get something that says only "latex caulk" without any mention of "acrylic" or "silicone"? The one I have says it's indoor/outdoor and "easy water cleanup" (which to me doesn't sound very waterproof).

I don't know contact cleaners, either - so, what should I get for that?

Thanks!
 

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Look harder for the center bolt.

Deep 1/4" socket should help you find it.
This ain't working. I'll explain down below, and I'll reference this picture that I had posted at my post #57 on Page 4 of this thread.
I have a 1/4" socket that I put on an extension. The extension is about 5/8" thick (outside diameter) - which is a problem as I'll describe.


Looking at that picture, you see an overhead view of what looks like a horizontal object ("paddle"?) of sorts sitting under my yellow text. They are secured by some barely flexible plastic clasps on the firewall end, and there are wires coming out of the front end. Those wires lead to just left of center of the bottom of the picture.

Underneath those wires (remember, this is an overhead view) are more wires, not as well lit, because they are down lower in the engine compartment. Those lower wires you see are directed right at the center of the bottom of the picture. Those lower wires come from a lower horizontal object ("paddle"?) that appears (with VERY obstructed view, NOT in this photo) to be very similar to the upper horizontal object/paddle that we can see very well in this picture. Those lower wires are also sitting on the wheel well, and that lower paddle must be less than 5/8" from the upper paddle, because I can't get my 5/8" thick socket extension in between the paddles!
The wheel well rises up in front of the paddle a few millimeters or so in front of it.

I try to get my my 1/4" socket on it's 5/8" thick extension in between the two paddles to access the center bolt (that I'm HOPING/PRAYING IS 1/4" for when/however I get to it), but the 5/8" thick extension won't fit in there!

SO:
a) Any suggestions on how to get a 1/4" socket in there?

b) Alternatively, what about unplugging the top paddle, so I can then get to the center bolt? It LOOKS to me like the top paddle is plugged into the firewall connector and partially held in place by the clasps in my picture. If I'm right about that and it CAN be unclasped or some other way unplugged, then HOW do I do it? Those top clasps won't hardly budge without some serious torquing on them with a screwdriver (I don't want to torque too hard, fearing I'll break them), but I did get the driver's side one kind of lifted up (but I still can't get the paddle to pull away from the connector).

Without moving that top paddle and its wires out of the way, I don't see at all how to get a socket/extension finagled in there between the wires and lower paddle that are crammed up against the wheel well. And even if I do get a socket in there somehow, and find the bolt with it (it's totally obscured from view), GOOD LUCK to me getting the bolt back to the hole!!

All this in the hopes to remove the paddles, to gain me access to all 4 sides of where the C100 connector meets the firewall opening, so I can caulk those edges to stop rainwater from entering through the firewall and flooding my floorboard.

There has to be SOME technique or tool to get this done, right?!??!
Help, please! (I've been researching online, and wrestling with this C100 for weeks now.)

Thanks!
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1/4" drive deep 1/4" socket.
I WISH I could get a drive in through all those wires, and in between the wires and the wheel-well that they're up against. If anyone can tell me how to do that, I'd appreciate it :)))

Also, can anyone address/answer my "part b)" question/scenario up in my Post #77 (2 posts above this one)?

Thanks!
 

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Hey Cruiser , I thought Id give you an update on my jeep status. I ended up taking it to the shop and found out that my Crank shaft position sensor was bad and the harness to it had some how fallen on to the manifold and melted . I had some vaccum routing on the fuel pressure regulator wasn’t working properly .But now that all that is taken care of its running like a charm . Next thing im replacing is the throttle cable and the kick down cable . thanks for yor help .
 
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