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I got the idea from a guy on Pirate, I decided to use the entire box, he shortened the non filter holding portion of the box.



















I trimmed the factory vacuum fittings, and plugged them with wire nuts, then painted them black

 

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How has this changed the performance at all? Or what are the benefits?
 

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For highway driving I think this gives me around an extra 1 MPG. Don't see as much benefit for in town driving. Based on temp guage (for what thats worth) looks like the engine runs a little cooler - used to run a touch above 210 before now run a touch below. Don't really notice much power difference.
 

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Just wanted to post this here for anyone looking for how to shorten the Ford Windstar Airbox, as mentioned earlier in the thread. This is how I did it anyways. Background: Airbox is out of a 97 3.8L Ford Windstar, picked it up at a local salvage yard. I put it into a 2006 LJ Wrangler.

I took the part of the airbox that the MAF sensor used to be in, and cut out the middle section.



Then, I cut a few short tabs out of some sheet metal and bolted the two new halves together. I used some ducting tape (the metal kind) to seal the inside.



Then I used some epoxy to make sure it was sealed well.



I finished it off by trimming off the extra bolt threads and using more tape around the outside.



After that, the install was just about the same. I went ahead and picked up some 3 inch flex tubing from Autozone (in the ricer section I believe) and two hose clamps. This let me use the flex tubing to go through the firewall which gave me better access to the dipstick.
 

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in the toad stranglers we have here in Floriduh, wouldn't it have the ablility to pick up a lot of water mounted there?
 

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For highway driving I think this gives me around an extra 1 MPG. Don't see as much benefit for in town driving. Based on temp guage (for what thats worth) looks like the engine runs a little cooler - used to run a touch above 210 before now run a touch below. Don't really notice much power difference.
Temperature of the intake air is not going to affect the coolant and engine operating temperature
 

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in the toad stranglers we have here in Floriduh, wouldn't it have the ablility to pick up a lot of water mounted there?
If you are deep enough to fully flood the cowl then yes you will have a problem, but absent that as long as you keep your cowl drain clear seems highly unlikely to me that enough rain water or splashing water could get in there to cause a problem. My intake comes through the firewall offset a little from the vent, it is obviously at a right angle to the way water would enter through the vent, it is off the bottom of the cowl a little and any water that does get sucked in has get through the filter also. I did go ahead and put a cover over the cowl vent (facing the windshield) but I don't think it was necessary. Versus stock location seems to me much less likely to flood.
 

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Nice! This is my next mod to prepare for the front fender lift. Sucking air from the cowl can only help. I've seen IATs in excess of 170F when moving slow in high heat. That will kill your power when the ecu pulls gobs of timing. Sucking air right off the bottom of a black hood, with hot radiator air blowing on it is never good. You will get a somewhat cowl effect at speed with the new intake design.
 

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If you are deep enough to fully flood the cowl then yes you will have a problem, but absent that as long as you keep your cowl drain clear seems highly unlikely to me that enough rain water or splashing water could get in there to cause a problem. My intake comes through the firewall offset a little from the vent, it is obviously at a right angle to the way water would enter through the vent, it is off the bottom of the cowl a little and any water that does get sucked in has get through the filter also. I did go ahead and put a cover over the cowl vent (facing the windshield) but I don't think it was necessary. Versus stock location seems to me much less likely to flood.
Picture of cover over the cowl vent?
 

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I have a simple question, sorry. but does the engn tipicly sputter some times if the gas cap is off for more than 20 hours? (there isnt any water in the tank) is that a vacuum issue? jw
 

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what about putting a stock paper filter in the windstar filter housing. I have read in alot of places where they say the k&n style filters allow more dirt&particles to get in the engine vs a paper filter. Wouldnt that work better? and what about the rain factor? is it an issue can water make it to the engine from just really hard rain with this setup?
 

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I've been running my windstar box with a NAPA Gold (WIX) filter in it for over a year in Oregon with no problems besides a somewhat annoying whistle sometimes. It's been driven in some silly hard rains. The only thing I think would be a problem is driving in blizzard conditions when the cowl tends to ice over. This was a great cheap mod that freed up much needed space under the hood for electrical stuff and easier access to my York fill plug.
 

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what about putting a stock paper filter in the windstar filter housing. I have read in alot of places where they say the k&n style filters allow more dirt&particles to get in the engine vs a paper filter. Wouldnt that work better? and what about the rain factor? is it an issue can water make it to the engine from just really hard rain with this setup?
I run a stock windstar paper filter and it does just fine. See post #12 for my comments on water.
 

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I've been running my windstar box with a NAPA Gold (WIX) filter in it for over a year in Oregon with no problems besides a somewhat annoying whistle sometimes. It's been driven in some silly hard rains. The only thing I think would be a problem is driving in blizzard conditions when the cowl tends to ice over. This was a great cheap mod that freed up much needed space under the hood for electrical stuff and easier access to my York fill plug.
Ok cool going to the junkyard tomorrow to pick me one up. So I take it i use a 3in holesaw on a drill to do this and relocate the ground. (i read the writeup) but is the anything else? Which is better using the stoct tj tube to connect it or gettin the stuff from napa? Sorry for all the question but I don't want to mess this jeep up. And spectre??? the website that makes the kit says it get the air from the windsheild. wouldnt the cowl cover prevent this from working?

And being in tennessee there arn't to many blizzards but i could see the cowl cover coming in handy. Looking mostly to free up the space from losing the stock box and building a nifty snorkel attachment wouldn't be that hard.
 

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Ok cool going to the junkyard tomorrow to pick me one up. So I take it i use a 3in holesaw on a drill to do this and relocate the ground. (i read the writeup) but is the anything else? Which is better using the stoct tj tube to connect it or gettin the stuff from napa? Sorry for all the question but I don't want to mess this jeep up. And spectre??? the website that makes the kit says it get the air from the windsheild. wouldnt the cowl cover prevent this from working?
Cowl cover is open to the back (or front depending on how you stick it on). Pulls the air through there.

I reused the stock tj tube. Just cut it down and used a PVC elbow and two rubber reducing rings to attach box to elbow and elbow to tube.
 
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