Code 41, 46 Over charging 20V DC and 60V AC

jtec said:

60v ac - with a NEW from store alternator?


Where are yu measuring Volts?
No added electrical devices - INVERTER ? any modified or aftermarket electrical?

Try removing field wires -
check for voltage on #3 ASD output ?
Check for a ground or voltage on #2 driver ?

Click to expand...

jtec said:

60v ac - with a NEW from store alternator?


Where are yu measuring Volts?
No added electrical devices - INVERTER ? any modified or aftermarket electrical?

Try removing field wires -
check for voltage on #3 ASD output ?
Check for a ground or voltage on #2 driver ?

Click to expand...

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No, nothing added, all stock original parts. At the battery when car is running. AC is making the battery boil. My Problem initially was extreme delay start, Check enginelight would come while driving but would go before I could check them. I replaced the capacotors in the ECM and it instantly started up, and started giving me codes. Fixed all but 41 and 46. Will check voltages you mentioned, as well as pin 2 and 22 on ECM, will pull it again for re-inspection, and post results tomorrow. I am just stunned by AC voltage, only one component creates voltage in that car!

I would have never thought to check for AC voltage because it should not exist. Seeing that it does exist however only points in one direction in my mind. The Alternator. You do need to verify the circuits outlined above that control the Alternator for sure but it really sounds like the rectifier (diodes) in the alternator is shorted and allowing AC voltage through.

You did NOT say if alt was NEW a recent purchase?


You have battery connected - neg GROUND? nothing is GI proof.

other thoughts -
What capacitors did you change, a specific system ie injectors?
Soldering inside PCM - might require a double check.

I read the first post as YOU had just been inside PCM to do capacitors.

YOU did not do the capacitors a sublet maybe?

Tell us about your replacement hunt for the PCM.

jtec said:

I read the first post as YOU had just been inside PCM to do capacitors.

YOU did not do the capacitors a sublet maybe?

Tell us about your replacement hunt for the PCM.

Click to expand...

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Facebook market place has them all listed wrong, used they run from $500 to 799. Brand new aftermarket at $449 on eBay but O'Reilly is the cheapest at $178 after core, but they are out of stock for mine. How ever this battle is not yet over, I am going to attempt to bridge another wire and bypass the damaged area. Cheap iron, did this damage, I should have spent another 10 bucks and bought a better iron

Give it a try if nothiing else you learning, and growing familiar.
I would suggest you try to get a PCM from Orielly's to be safe - @ the price of a tank of gas.
just be sure to get it temporally installed to check that it works before you put it on spare part shelf.

jtec said:

Give it a try if nothiing else you learning, and growing familiar.
I would suggest you try to get a PCM from Orielly's to be safe - @ the price of a tank of gas.
just be sure to get it temporally installed to check that it works before you put it on spare part shelf.

Click to expand...

There are electronic repair companies that rebuild these ECMs for just over $100 and grantee their work. Some have great reviews. Problem is they deal with delay start and do what I did (with out damaging the pcb). They can fix the pcb, they would have to send it to where I used to work 38 years ago. Even then, with good eyes, and great tools, I would have not even attempt to fix this. But am so broke, I pulled the schematic, technically speaking, from where its broken, I can go back to a soldier point, add a diod and a resistor and then go straight to the connector pin or the wire. This EMC is shut any ways, worth trying I suppose. and as soon as I get some money, I am putting a new engine, tourq convertor, wiring harness, EMC and a fuel pump. So I can put on 38 tires lol

fixing PCM is a separate career i'll leave details to you.

My 2￠ WHen you can check local junk yards - a spare.