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CJ7 Dana 60-2 Rear Axle Build

13816 Views 20 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  ColdSteel85
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I've been saving money to buy the parts I need to finish my new Dana 60-2 rear axle. I plan to swap this onto my CJ7 in place of the Dana 44 Scout II axle it now has.

I got the Dana 60-2 from a 1972 J4000 series pickup in a local junkyard. This is what I have put into it so far:

Dana 60 Rear Axle work:
Axle cost 130
Sell trac-lok -150
Sell 4.10 R&P -43
Shorten tube 150 87
Shorten shaft 40 127
el dorado calipers 30.50 157.50
D60 4.88 gears 168 325.50
Install master cylinder 78.50 404.00
Eaton E-locker 768 1172.00
Carrier Bearings 72.50 1244.50
Pinion install kit 79.50 1324
Spring perches 40.50 1364.50
TSM Brackets bolts rotors 300 1664.50
#2580
rubber hoses 50 1714.50

The Identifying marks for a Dana 60-2 are on the top and bottom of the housing. This pic shows one cast in designator.


The whole axle housing with an Eaton E-locker installed:


You can see the tube weld on the left side. The axle originally had a very offset pinion. It was 66" WMS to WMS. If you cut 6" out of the long side you wind up needing two axle shafts that are the same length and the WMS to WMS width is about 60" total. So I only had to get one tube cut and rewelded. Crazy Ed in Colorado Springs did the tube shortening for $150.
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Looks good! Crazy Ed and Tom Staub definitely do good work at a reasonable price.

Did you have to wait long for the axleshaft re-splining?

Just out of curiosity, why is your bumper/tire carrier cost in the tally? Seems unrelated and falsely bumps up your axle cost totals.

The other nice thing about the 60-2 that you haven't mentioned is they have the same 5 on 5.5" as any CJ.
Are you going to just remove the bottom lip or remove part of the housing and weld in a plate to cover the hole?

One of these days I'm going to cut the housing and TIG in a plate on my 14 bolt. The offending lip has been removed, but I'd like more clearance.
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