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You do not need to hit the springs with your front tyres, there are adjuster stops so you can set it up correctly.

The CJ came with 29" tyres. If you want to keep the same lock on the front with 35" tyres, which are probably 2.5" wider than stock, you need to move the wheel out up to about 3". This can be achieved with wheel spacers or new wheels or both. How much you move it out will determine your turning circle and is fine tuned by the limit of the stops.

The rear wheels are similar, you can move the wheels outwards with spacers and a new wheel by the same distance.

The strength of a stock AMC20 with 2 piece axles is not great with 35" tyres, but with one piece axle shafts is doable.

You then have the issue of the lift you need to clear the tub, 6". And the axle ratios need to be changed to 4.10:1 or deeper

And you will need wider fender flares to cover the wheels.

This is Bagusjeep, the extra width of about 6" is from wheel spacers and deep wheels, the tyres are only 31" so the turning circle is groovy. The very wide flares are absolutely needed. So I have achieved the same width as a cut down FSJ axle with spacers and wheels.

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While the skills are about the same, an alignment bar and the correct pucks is an absolute must to get the ends on straight for a rear axle.
I bought my rod from Grainger for about $65 if I remember correctly. The aluminum bushings are available on E-Pay for a little more. I think I have about $150 in my setup. My chassis guy has a repurposed hydraulic rod that was chrome plated when it was manufactured, it’s nice.

I was surprised how far off the 8.8 housing was before I did anything to it. I don’t think they have to be perfect, rather they need to be close, or NOT grossly miss-aligned.

I know OEM stuff has flaws that get out the door occasionally, but I do agree the use of a rod & pucks will assure the ends are in alignment and perpendicular for a smooth turning axle shaft/wheel.
 
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Thanks for the replies! I'm planning on running 4.10s so shouldn't be too hard to find whatever axle I end up with. I thought about the 8.8 and while it would be stronger, the D44 I already have seems cheaper and easier and will probably hold up to 35s just fine. Additionally I'm a little skeptical of the overall strength of shortening the 8.8 like that as I've read cutting and welding the axle tubes together can be a a little sketchy, although I'm certainly open to being convinced otherwise.
Couldn't you sleeve the axle tubes internally to reinforce the weld?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Couldn't you sleeve the axle tubes internally to reinforce the weld?
Yes, I suppose you could and plenty of guys do it successfully. I’m just personally not a big fan of shortening axles that way. Shortening an 8.8 the way Axhammer was taking about just seems to make a lot more sense. To me it sounds easier, simpler, and also gets rid of the c-clips at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So I picked up the j10 D44 and an explorer 8.8. I’m curious to get thoughts on options for building up the 8.8. Mainly, should I go with the Yukon ultimate 88 kit or cut the housing, weld on ford 9 inch big bearing ends, and run custom 9 inch axles. The Yukon kit is drilled for 5x5.5 seems cheaper and easier then changing bearing ends and ordering custom axles. Are there any real strength advantages for the 9 inch bearing ends and axles? The one downside to the Yukon kit is that it adds 2” total to the wms width which would put me about half an inch wider in the rear then in the front with the cut j10 D44. I know typically you’d want the front axle slightly wider but will there be a noticeable effect if the rear is 1/2 wider? All other things being equal I’d rather save the cash and go with the Yukon kit but it’s not worth it if there are really major advantages to the 9 inch bearing setup. I’d love to hear from folks that have real world experience with this!
 

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In terms of Super 88 kit vs 9" ends, what's the intended tire size?
Edit: looked at OP and see 35s. The super 88 should be plenty strong for 35s and 9" bearing ends aren't going to make the internals any stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I'm definitely leaning towards the Ultimate 88 kit. From what I gather the Yukon kit is a knock off of the old Superior Super 88 kits (which are sadly no longer made). I find plenty glowing reviews of the Superior kits and would buy one in a second if I could but not as much real world experience on the Yukon. Can anyone speak to the quality of the Yukon stuff?
 

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You could always run spacers on the front to make it wider than the rear. You may need the extra width to clear the frame and springs anyway.
 

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I'm running full width J-20 Dana 60 and Dana 44 front
View attachment 4154483

I’m curious what the actual width is you are running, since the FSJ’s had NT & WT.

I believe the NT is around 61” WMS width, and the WT was more like 65”

You have a nice build going there…do you have a build thread?
 

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Andy can you get ahold of a junkyard 35" tire/wheel or two for next to nothing? It would help a lot mocking this up. What motor and transmission? 4.10 isn't a very good ratio for 35s in most cases
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
That’s a great idea! I’ll definitely keep on the lookout for one. I’ve got the stock 258 and a stock T150 right now but plan to swap to a T18 at some point. Originally I was thinking 4.10s but now I’m thinking 4.56s is a better way to go, maybe even deeper. Don’t want to go too deep without an overdrive to keep cruising rpms manageable.
 

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I have cut J10’s on my CJ’s. I narrowed the driver side only and I have Dutchman axles. If you end up only cutting the driver side, which ends up fairly wide, I have the measurements for the axles if you want them. I would suggest you set up the front first and then cut the rear to the width you want. I run Ford 9’s with Explorer rear disc brakes and the wheel mount axle surface to the bearing end is 2 1/2” on each side. If you ran the same brakes, which came on your 8.8 for the later year Explorers, then you will have the same 2 1/2” brake offset on each side. That’s a measurement that is handy when you do cut the rear for disc brakes. I can measure a Ford 9 with drum brakes if it will help.
 

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they are full width from a J-20 Dana 60 and Dana 44. No build thread. I'm going nuts trying to make the 727 work with the front shaft. I have about 1/2 clearance to the trans case.
 

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they are full width from a J-20 Dana 60 and Dana 44. No build thread. I'm going nuts trying to make the 727 work with the front shaft. I have about 1/2 clearance to the trans case.
Be extra nice to that J-20 Dana 60... they use a different spindle, bearings and hub. the hub has a different bolt pattern for the axle flange so you can't use off the shelf cut to fit shafts. also, have you looked at the carrier block from high angle driveline to move the driveshaft safely awat from the trans pan?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I have cut J10’s on my CJ’s. I narrowed the driver side only and I have Dutchman axles. If you end up only cutting the driver side, which ends up fairly wide, I have the measurements for the axles if you want them. I would suggest you set up the front first and then cut the rear to the width you want. I run Ford 9’s with Explorer rear disc brakes and the wheel mount axle surface to the bearing end is 2 1/2” on each side. If you ran the same brakes, which came on your 8.8 for the later year Explorers, then you will have the same 2 1/2” brake offset on each side. That’s a measurement that is handy when you do cut the rear for disc brakes. I can measure a Ford 9 with drum brakes if it will help.
I do plan on only cutting the driver’s side. I would greatly appreciate any measurements you have! It’ll help a lot to verify I’m on the right track.
 

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they are full width from a J-20 Dana 60 and Dana 44. No build thread. I'm going nuts trying to make the 727 work with the front shaft. I have about 1/2 clearance to the trans case.
I found this axle chart on the internet. Can you confirm your actual WMS width?

The reason I’m asking is I’m going to do a SOA build for my 1985 CJ-7, and I’m currently planning on a 59” WMS width on the front and 58” WMS on the rear. So, I’m gathering pertinent information…so to speak.
 
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