Are you getting the right studs? Those holes do not look stripped out. Those should be a moderate press fit on the knurled portion. If you are using the D30 Jeep hubs/rotors, get studs for a 78+ CJ5. I thought maybe I had a number for those but didn't find it.
CJ5 lug stud problem on one side
Hey all,
I use my CJ3B as a daily driver. It has a CJ5 frame and parts and from what I have been told, it is probably from a '70 or 71'. I installed disc brakes on the front 4-5 months ago, all new rotors, pads, calipers, lines, etc. and everything was fine. Recently, when braking, the driver's side front made a small grinding noise. I thought I might have a warped rotor as the pads are fine.
When I went to take off the lug nuts, the whole lug stud would spin, very loosely. All five of them, which is really odd and obviously leads me to assume that I have some other issue going on. As expected, this is not happening on the other side. I went and got new lug studs and it is the same thing, so the holes have been enlarged somehow. I had the wheels balanced and aligned a couple of months ago. Does anyone know what would cause this? And fixes? I assume I will have to get a new axle hub assembly?
Here is a pic and a small video of the issue.
See the video of the issue here
![Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Tire]()
Thanks for any help!
OffroaderCJ
I use my CJ3B as a daily driver. It has a CJ5 frame and parts and from what I have been told, it is probably from a '70 or 71'. I installed disc brakes on the front 4-5 months ago, all new rotors, pads, calipers, lines, etc. and everything was fine. Recently, when braking, the driver's side front made a small grinding noise. I thought I might have a warped rotor as the pads are fine.
When I went to take off the lug nuts, the whole lug stud would spin, very loosely. All five of them, which is really odd and obviously leads me to assume that I have some other issue going on. As expected, this is not happening on the other side. I went and got new lug studs and it is the same thing, so the holes have been enlarged somehow. I had the wheels balanced and aligned a couple of months ago. Does anyone know what would cause this? And fixes? I assume I will have to get a new axle hub assembly?
Here is a pic and a small video of the issue.
See the video of the issue here
Thanks for any help!
OffroaderCJ
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Well sir,
I have a '46 CJ2A---I'm suspecting that your 3B is earlier than you say.
I was sorta lacking in Willys Knowledge and Word of mouth and Paper reading was all that I had to go by!
I had "JC Whitney"---Kaiser Willys had not come into being yet!
I began with working on Willy in 1991 by removing what was left of the body easily with a crow bar
in about 15 minutes time (this was after removing the steering draglink)
The next day, my neighbor and I took the wheels off.
I was taking the passenger side loose, and he, the driver's side.
He had a hard time with the 1st two and snapped off those studs with a big breaker bar.
I went to his side and found that the other studs had an "L" on their ends.
THE DRIVER'S SIDE LUGS ARE LEFT HAND THREAD! (Thanks David!)
Since I had no idea of this, at that point, I decided that I would press all of 'em out and
install all of them "Right Hand threads" on both sides---this would "FIX" any more Modern Confusion!
I reckon this was my very 1st decided modification to Willy!
When I got to that point, I had to find studs that would press back in the holes and "stay"
I'm just guessing yours may have been done the same way on the driver's side---'cept the replacements were
not a good fit???
-----JEEPFELLER
![Font Material property Audio equipment Technology Software]()
I have a '46 CJ2A---I'm suspecting that your 3B is earlier than you say.
I was sorta lacking in Willys Knowledge and Word of mouth and Paper reading was all that I had to go by!
I had "JC Whitney"---Kaiser Willys had not come into being yet!
I began with working on Willy in 1991 by removing what was left of the body easily with a crow bar
in about 15 minutes time (this was after removing the steering draglink)
The next day, my neighbor and I took the wheels off.
I was taking the passenger side loose, and he, the driver's side.
He had a hard time with the 1st two and snapped off those studs with a big breaker bar.
I went to his side and found that the other studs had an "L" on their ends.
THE DRIVER'S SIDE LUGS ARE LEFT HAND THREAD! (Thanks David!)
Since I had no idea of this, at that point, I decided that I would press all of 'em out and
install all of them "Right Hand threads" on both sides---this would "FIX" any more Modern Confusion!
I reckon this was my very 1st decided modification to Willy!
When I got to that point, I had to find studs that would press back in the holes and "stay"
I'm just guessing yours may have been done the same way on the driver's side---'cept the replacements were
not a good fit???
-----JEEPFELLER
This is great info! What is odd though, is that I have taken these wheels off countless times with no issue. The other side was completely solidly set. @JEEPFELLER, I don't see any markings on the bolts that indicate a left or right side. Here are the hub assembly numbers. The axle is 27A. I have included the markings from the hub assembly. There are two sets of numbers?? There is a 35295 and a 24648 with a 15 to the left (15 24648). You can see the size discrepancy between the studs and the hub assembly holes.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Scale Automotive exterior]()
![Hand Sleeve Gesture Finger Personal protective equipment]()
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber]()
![Automotive tire Grey Automotive wheel system Snout Audio equipment]()
![Automotive tire Wood Grey Wall Synthetic rubber]()
Great info. I did the disc brake conversion using the 1985-1989 Suzuki setup and Brandon's garage brackets. I just went and got the studs you linked above. The knurled part seems to fit well enough to stop them from spinning when I tightened the wheel. The only thing is I can't get them to seat properly.
Here are pics. As I am sure you can guess, the silver ones are the new ones and aren't fully seated in the slot. Does this matter? Was the part I got above not the right one? Or do I need more torque to pull them in farther? I am using a powerful impact hammer (Milwaukee 18v Fuel), but maybe it isn't enough for this?
More great info. Thanks!
So I had more time to look at it today. I am just thoroughly confused. When I did the disc brake conversion, I didn't change out the hub assembly. I used a setup I found on 7-Bar Salvage's YouTube channel. It is some Suzuki parts and Brennan's garage brackets. The install went fine. I have take the wheels off multiple times and NEVER noticed loose lug studs. But there is no question the lug studs that came off were undersized. I think they are a .629in knurl diameter. Is is possible for a D27A to have a D30 hub assembly? I am going to check, but maybe one side is an actual 27A assembly with the advance threads as @David J. mentioned? Mine is certainly not threaded on the driver's side front.
I went and got some new ones based on the recommendation above (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE6411610?impressionRank=3). I pulled the hub and banged them with a 5lb hammer. There is NO way they could work in my setup a) because the stud head is too thick and therefore would never seat properly in the hole without sticking out and b) the part I have circled in yellow below gets pushed out when I put the rotors on.
![Automotive tire Household hardware Cylinder Auto part Metal]()
below is that part I mentioned is too thick
![Household hardware Cylinder Gas Engineering Auto part]()
So assuming that a D30 hub assembly could be on a D27A and that is what I have, is there a better lug stud that would work with the Dana 30, assuming that is what I have?
Thanks!!
So I had more time to look at it today. I am just thoroughly confused. When I did the disc brake conversion, I didn't change out the hub assembly. I used a setup I found on 7-Bar Salvage's YouTube channel. It is some Suzuki parts and Brennan's garage brackets. The install went fine. I have take the wheels off multiple times and NEVER noticed loose lug studs. But there is no question the lug studs that came off were undersized. I think they are a .629in knurl diameter. Is is possible for a D27A to have a D30 hub assembly? I am going to check, but maybe one side is an actual 27A assembly with the advance threads as @David J. mentioned? Mine is certainly not threaded on the driver's side front.
I went and got some new ones based on the recommendation above (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE6411610?impressionRank=3). I pulled the hub and banged them with a 5lb hammer. There is NO way they could work in my setup a) because the stud head is too thick and therefore would never seat properly in the hole without sticking out and b) the part I have circled in yellow below gets pushed out when I put the rotors on.
below is that part I mentioned is too thick
So assuming that a D30 hub assembly could be on a D27A and that is what I have, is there a better lug stud that would work with the Dana 30, assuming that is what I have?
Thanks!!
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
