CJ5 Headlight Upgrade Help

17384 Views 90 Replies 26 Participants Last post by ubetya, Feb 13, 2019

cj5chic

Discussion Starter · Dec 8, 2018

Ok, like most of us with CJ's, I simply can't see where I'm going at night due to the crappy headlight output. It's actually getting quite dangerous this time of year due to shorter daylight hours.
Because of my total lack of electrical knowledge I need something plug and play
Found these on Amazon:
7 Inch LED Round Headlight Conversion for Jeep CJ CJ5 CJ7 Tractor Trailer Truck 150W 6000K Hi/Lo Beam Led Headlamp 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GNZ54H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KAbdCb5BJB163
Any advice on whether these would work or not would most certainly be appreciated!

61 - 80 of 91 Posts

Matt in TN

· #61 · Dec 14, 2018

cj5chic said:
Ok boys, these came today from Amazon for $35. They look pretty legit to me.

I just received mine and they look the same. I'm really looking forward to getting this in and seeing at night!

Hotrodssnova

· #62 · Dec 14, 2018

I put mine in last night. For my setup, I had to add approximately 8 inches to the relay power supply from the battery. I only did this so I could route the loom to my liking.
After buttoning everything up, test drove it and now I need to adjust the lights. In my opinion, this should rank up there with the first things to do on a newly acquired cj.

jeepdaddy2000

· #63 · Dec 15, 2018

TIPPEDITOVER said:
That is exactly what I was saying earlier, but you did include another piece of beneficial information. :thumbsup:

Yep, I run a short jump lead from the main feed (30) to the relay coil (86).
Then run the ground (85) to the switch, then to ground. If you are running multiple lights or a switch pod, you can install a ground buss.

The only real downfall is you don't have the option of a circuit routed through the ignition switch, which means it is possible to bump a switch with the ignition off and have a light left on long enough to melt a cover or run down the battery.

Reactions: 1

StoneTower

· #64 · Dec 15, 2018

You could run those lighting grounds through a key operated relay that is inside the cab and then none of the circuits would be active unless the key is on. I like having the headlight harness use standard 5 pin Bosch style relays because you can carry a few spares and they work the for the ARB locker, headlights, fuel pump, etc.

jeepdaddy2000 said:
Yep, I run a short jump lead from the main feed (30) to the relay coil (86).
Then run the ground (85) to the switch, then to ground. If you are running multiple lights or a switch pod, you can install a ground buss.

The only real downfall is you don't have the option of a circuit routed through the ignition switch, which means it is possible to bump a switch with the ignition off and have a light left on long enough to melt a cover or run down the battery.

jeepdaddy2000

· #65 · Dec 15, 2018

StoneTower said:
You could run those lighting grounds through a key operated relay that is inside the cab

I like having the headlight harness use standard 5 pin Bosch style relays

Bingo.

Reactions: 1

Guy Smilie

· #66 · Dec 16, 2018

CJLoad said:
Just ordered this again, see what I get Wednesday.

I reordered and received the Hella's this time. Good luck with your order.

Just as CJ5chic said make sure the vendor is USA DEALS STORE. Looking back at my last order the main vendor was Octane lighting.

CJLoad

· #67 · Dec 17, 2018

2

I wish I could have gotten these originally!!

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CJWoodman

· #68 · Dec 18, 2018

I got the non Hella in the mail today. Bummer. Relays say Octane on them so I am going to replace those. Otherwise it seems like ok quality. It's a time saver and will only require a slight lengthening mod on the power supply.

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CJLoad

· #69 · Dec 18, 2018

The Hellas have 2 power leads, one for each fuse. I've read bad reviews with just the one lead.
Woodman, that's what I received the first time I ordered them (post 45 or 46).

Hoov, I'm a firm believer of your hypothesis!!

CJWoodman

· #70 · Dec 18, 2018

CJLoad said:
The Hellas have 2 power leads, one for each fuse. I've read bad reviews with just the one lead.
Woodman, that's what I received the first time I ordered them (post 45 or 46).

Hoov, I'm a firm believer of your hypothesis!!

Thanks for the heads up. I'll review the thread more carefully.

John Strenk

· #71 · Dec 19, 2018

jeepdaddy2000 said:
Yep, I run a short jump lead from the main feed (30) to the relay coil (86).
Then run the ground (85) to the switch, then to ground. If you are running multiple lights or a switch pod, you can install a ground buss.

The only real downfall is you don't have the option of a circuit routed through the ignition switch, which means it is possible to bump a switch with the ignition off and have a light left on long enough to melt a cover or run down the battery.

This is so easily accomplished just by removing the main feed from the light switch and routing a power lead from the accessory circuit.

Since all they switch is a relay, current load is not a problem to use the accessory circuit.

If anyone is interested, I could draw up instructions to do this. I think I may do this myself.

scooby533

· #72 · Dec 20, 2018

Do I see a nice CAD drawing in our future John?

Shawn

trailhead2004

· #73 · Dec 20, 2018

John Strenk said:
This is so easily accomplished just by removing the main feed from the light switch and routing a power lead from the accessory circuit.

Since all they switch is a relay, current load is not a problem to use the accessory circuit.

If anyone is interested, I could draw up instructions to do this. I think I may do this myself.

I'd be interested in seeing what you're thinking. I have my own idea, but it sounds very similar to yours.

John Strenk

· #74 · Dec 21, 2018

trailhead2004 said:
I'd be interested in seeing what you're thinking. I have my own idea, but it sounds very similar to yours.

I was working on this yesterday but I'm going to have to figure out the load all the parking lights put on the circuit and select the proper fuse size.

It would be best to connect it to the back of the voltmeter to draw power so as not to load down the rest of the circuits.

trailhead2004

· #75 · Dec 21, 2018

John Strenk said:
I was working on this yesterday but I'm going to have to figure out the load all the parking lights put on the circuit and select the proper fuse size.

It would be best to connect it to the back of the voltmeter to draw power so as not to load down the rest of the circuits.

Ok, you're definitely not thinking what I'm thinking. Now I really want to see what you're up to.:surprise:

John Strenk

· #76 · Dec 21, 2018

trailhead2004 said:
Ok, you're definitely not thinking what I'm thinking. Now I really want to see what you're up to.:surprise:

Simplest is to do it this way.

I was not sure if the fuse could handle both the fan motor and the parking lights. Might need to pick a different plug like the "Cruse" Plug but that has the cigar lighter on the circuit. Maybe even the "Radio" of "Clock" position and change the fuse size.

OR just hook it up to the back of the voltmeter with a inline fuse.

Either way, you lights will be OFF in the LOCK, OFF or START position but can be ON in the ACC of RUN position.

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trailhead2004

· #77 · Dec 21, 2018

John Strenk said:
Simplest is to do it this way.

I was not sure if the fuse could handle both the fan motor and the parking lights. Might need to pick a different plug like the "Cruse" Plug but that has the cigar lighter on the circuit. Maybe even the "Radio" of "Clock" position and change the fuse size.

OR just hook it up to the back of the voltmeter with a inline fuse.

Either way, you lights will be OFF in the LOCK, OFF or START position but can be ON in the ACC of RUN position.

:thumbsup:

jsal

· #78 · Dec 22, 2018

5

After reading this thread I decided to try the relay harness upgrade, I don't do allot of night driving but I know the headlights are not the best. Some time ago I replaces the headlight with sealed halogens, but it did not make a big difference. I didn't want to spend big bucks so I bought a relay harness kit of from eBay for $30.99 w/free shipping and planed to use the existing headlamps. I was curious to see how much difference the relay harness kit alone would make. To my surprise I received the Hella Kit from eBay seller dealskarts9. I was very impressed with how easily it installed and the wires were very good lengths, not overly long or too short. My in the garage test reviled a significant difference in just installing the relay kit. So far I would give this upgrade a thumbs up! Low investment and BIG results! Thanks to you all!

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tchimmerroks

· #79 · Dec 24, 2018

I upgraded one Jeep w/the do-it-yourself, junkyard relays, and (new wire obviously) along w/the headlight, relay schematic someone provided here on the Forum, and Sylvania Superbright, Jeep CJ bulbs, and the other I just bought the plug-n-play headlight relay kit, after doing the Painless, complete Jeep re-wire, and used the same Sylvania bulbs. The do-it-yourself manner wasn't too hard, but if you'd prefer simpler installation, the kit is the way to go. I highly recommend the Sylvania bulbs, they are just like any other modern bulb concerning illumination/clarity, definitely a huge improvement over the OEM lighting.

scooby533

· #80 · Feb 6, 2019

Ordered this relay from the link provided a few pages ago and received the Hella Harmess!
Thanks for the heads up!

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