[Hotrodssnova]

Mine is due to arrive tomorrow. I'm in Houston, so we will see what the south gets.

 

[StoneTower]

Can you tell what the wire gauge is that goes to the headlights? I have a cheaper harness that has 16 gauge but I would like to see at least 14 gauge.

I did a search for Hella 0418 relay and nothing comes up. If you do a search for Hella H4 headlight harness that harness comes up on a Amazon site in another country. It may be a great harness, but I still think someone is making them and putting Hella's name on them. I once purchased new jackhammer valued at around $1500.00 thinking I was getting a really good deal only to find out that the seller has swapped in a Chinese clone after having Bosch Brute stenciled on them. I did recover my money but I was not very happy.

I may still buy one of those harnesses and if the relays give out, I can always convert them to standard Bosch style relays.

These arrived today. Love Amazon. Got Hella written all over the box and relays. They did a heck of a job if they're copies. I can tell they are made of good quality materials.

 

[CJLoad]

Nice. Maybe they are sending the cheaper version to folks on the east coast.:frown2: I got what is shown in the description minus one of the fuses

I didn't the Hella harness either. Same one as Guy received. Waiting one the fenders and grill to come back from paint to install it. I really hope they function OK.

 

[cj5chic]

Ok boys, these came today from Amazon for $35. They look pretty legit to me.

 

[John Strenk]

Hella does have a manufacturing plant in India. 4 actually. They may not be just relabeled stuff.

https://www.hella.com/hella-in/en/HELLA-India-Automotive-Pvt-Ltd-655.html

Apparently these are were these come from.

 

[CJLoad]

Cj5chic, can you post the link from Amazon for the kit? This is the one I received from Amazon. Maybe I can try it again and see what they send.
Thanks

 

[cj5chic]

Dual High Low Beam Headlight Relay Wiring Harness H4/9003 With High Heat Ceramic Plugs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H5JFHR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DrNeCb5TGW45Z

Make sure you get the one sold by USA DEALS STORE and fulfilled by Amazon. Don't go to "other sellers" as they may be sending different harnesses. That may be why some people are receiving different items.

 

[Hoover7]

CJload, I think it's interesting that your harness was 'made' by Octane Lighting, and that Octane Lighting is listed as the seller on the Amazon page where others have received the Hella kit. Something still doesn't quite add up for me. I'm wondering if the advertising tactic is to keep the pictures 'generic', and then fulfill customer orders with the Hella relays/harnesses when they have them in stock, and then 'in-house' harnesses when the Hellas are out. Who knows. Regardless, hope you get the 2-fuse Hellas when you re-order-

Hoov

 

[Guy Smilie]

CJload, I think it's interesting that your harness was 'made' by Octane Lighting, and that Octane Lighting is listed as the seller on the Amazon page where others have received the Hella kit. Something still doesn't quite add up for me. I'm wondering if the advertising tactic is to keep the pictures 'generic', and then fulfill customer orders with the Hella relays/harnesses when they have them in stock, and then 'in-house' harnesses when the Hellas are out. Who knows. Regardless, hope you get the 2-fuse Hellas when you re-order-

Hoov

Hoov, I think your thinking is spot on.

 

[Guy Smilie]

Dual High Low Beam Headlight Relay Wiring Harness H4/9003 With High Heat Ceramic Plugs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H5JFHR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DrNeCb5TGW45Z

Make sure you get the one sold by USA DEALS STORE and fulfilled by Amazon. Don't go to "other sellers" as they may be sending different harnesses. That may be why some people are receiving different items.

That's the same vendor I used and got the same one CJload got

 

[CJLoad]

Just ordered this again, see what I get Wednesday.

 

[Hotrodssnova]

Houston reporting in with getting the Hella harness. It also has the twin fuses

 

[John Strenk]

One thing guys, Pull those relays and fuses out and fill the cavities with dielectric grease.

You will thank me if you ever need to change a fuse or relay later.

Don't forget all 3 headlight plugs.

 

[CJLoad]

Houston reporting in with getting the Hella harness. It also has the twin fuses

If I don't receive the Hella this time, I'll need you or cj5chic to get them for me. Haha

 

[clarkg]

One thing guys, Pull those relays and fuses out and fill the cavities with dielectric grease.

You will thank me if you ever need to change a fuse or relay later.

Don't forget all 3 headlight plugs.

John- I have seen several posts on here where people have recommended using dielectric grease on electrical connections. I have used antioxidant grease such as https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-4-oz-Tube-Noalox-Anti-Oxidant/3128351, but I always thought dielectric grease was for rubber parts such as plug boots to keep moisture out. Dielectric grease is nonconductive I believe. Or maybe I misunderstood?

 

[cj5chic]

You can also go the added distance and install a set of driving lights. I run a set of old Bosch rectangular's on the front bumper of the F350 (which has THE poorest headlights in history). They are relayed into the high beam circuit and upgraded with 100W bulbs. While not used with the lows, they are a big improvement on the open road. They not only light up the night, but are independently adjustable, allowing me to rotate the passenger side out off the road a bit, which helps me spot those pesky deer at night.

I really like the idea of adding some driving lights. The more light the better!
My front bumper has a couple mounting spots just itching for them. First things first though.... installing the relay harness to my headlights. Once I figure out how that all works I'll probably end up putting
lights all over this Jeep!

 

[John Strenk]

John- I have seen several posts on here where people have recommended using dielectric grease on electrical connections. I have used antioxidant grease such as https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-4-oz-Tube-Noalox-Anti-Oxidant/3128351, but I always thought dielectric grease was for rubber parts such as plug boots to keep moisture out. Dielectric grease is nonconductive I believe. Or maybe I misunderstood?

I put dielectric grease to prevent corrosion on the contact surface. It makes it easier to separate a connection years later. It is NON-Conductive but that grease is just pushed out of the way in a connector where it makes contact. The grease fills in voids where corrosion can start without it.
It also helps in preventing voltage leaks like around spark plug wires.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Noalox is similar in it in that it forms a covering to prevent oxidation but it contains Zink particles to break through any oxidation that has already formed on the surface of the conductor.
This is very very important on aluminum to aluminum or aluminum to copper connections. Noalox is 'Conductive' but not by much.

Either can be used but when starting out with new copper or tinned contacts, I just use grease.

Apparently vasoline has been used but it has a melting point around 100*F so it will leak/evaporate away and leave you with no protection.

Here is a good read:
https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

 

[jeepdaddy2000]

I really like the idea of adding some driving lights. The more light the better!
My front bumper has a couple mounting spots just itching for them. First things first though.... installing the relay harness to my headlights. Once I figure out how that all works I'll probably end up putting
lights all over this Jeep!

Be sure to check with your DOT for any issues. Oregon allows for one auxiliary set of lights to be uncovered. This works for my purposes, however, adding lights may require them to be covered.

Relay's are simple to install. I usually a Cheap FLAPS relay on mine. In the close to 15 years I've had them installed, I have lost one relay. While I don't recommend a cheap relay for headlight applications, the added offroad lights can be wired in for a couple of bucks more.

Another technique I like is to run the relay ground through the activating switch. This cuts my wiring down by one wire and eliminates a hot wire running through the firewall. If the wire happens to ground out the lights simply come on

 

[clarkg]

John- I have seen several posts on here where people have recommended using dielectric grease on electrical connections. I have used antioxidant grease such as http://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-4-oz-Tube-Noalox-Anti-Oxidant/3128351, but I always thought dielectric grease was for rubber parts such as plug boots to keep moisture out. Dielectric grease is nonconductive I believe. Or maybe I misunderstood?

I put dielectric grease to prevent corrosion on the contact surface. It makes it easier to separate a connection years later. It is NON-Conductive but that grease is just pushed out of the way in a connector where it makes contact. The grease fills in voids where corrosion can start without it.
It also helps in preventing voltage leaks like around spark plug wires.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Noalox is similar in it in that it forms a covering to prevent oxidation but it contains Zink particles to break through any oxidation that has already formed on the surface of the conductor.
This is very very important on aluminum to aluminum or aluminum to copper connections. Noalox is 'Conductive' but not by much.

Either can be used but when starting out with new copper or tinned contacts, I just use grease.

Apparently vasoline has been used but it has a melting point around 100*F so it will leak/evaporate away and leave you with no protection.

Here is a good read:
http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

. Thanks for all the info. That was an interesting writeup. Sounds like the dielectric grease benefit is lubrication and it stays put without drying over time.

 

[TIPPEDITOVER]

Another technique I like is to run the relay ground through the activating switch. This cuts my wiring down by one wire and eliminates a hot wire running through the firewall. If the wire happens to ground out the lights simply come on

That is exactly what I was saying earlier, but you did include another piece of beneficial information. :thumbsup: