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I need to figure out what to do for an in-tank pump for a 4.0 conversion. I'm not interested in an externally mounted pump.

Choices are:

1) The Novak pump. Plug and play but expensive.
2) 2.5 YJ sender w/correct sized pump. Even if I reverse the ohms the fuel gauge will still read a little off
3) Modify the CJ sender. Still haven't found a good solution to have a water (gas) tight connection for the wiring.
4) Use a separate fuel hanger. Will need to drill the tank and cap one of the lines on the Jeep sender.

I'm leaning towards option 4. I have an extra fuel hanger/pump from a early 90s Range Rover that fits nicely in the tank. I don't know the rating of the pump but it will run any of the older RV8s (3.9, 4.2, 4.6) so I'm fairly certain it will work on the Jeep 4.0.

I mocked up the set up with an old tank and pump and here is how it would look. I'd just need to add rivnuts to secure the pump hanger and use the Rover cork gasket to seal it up.

Any opinions on set up #4?
 

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I made my own tank but some of what I did can apply to your idea #4. My fuel pump assembly and sending unit are separate. I bought a pump rated for the requirements of my engine, Ford 5.0 and made the bracket and everything to hold it in place. The aluminum flange that everything bolts to has two studs in it where the wiring hooks to on the outside. They are set in that flange in fiberglass rods that insulate them from the flange. Anyway here is a link to my build thread where that starts Jim's 85 CJ7 rebuild and a few pictures here too. I also have a return line to the tank as well.
Gas Nickel Auto part Bicycle part Metal
Hood Bag Gas Trunk Automotive lighting
Gas Machine Jig grinder Composite material Shipping box
 

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Holley makes in in tank fuel pump/sender that replaces the stock CJ sender for the 15 tank, pricy but super simple.

 

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I need to figure out what to do for an in-tank pump for a 4.0 conversion. I'm not interested in an externally mounted pump.

Choices are:

1) The Novak pump. Plug and play but expensive.
2) 2.5 YJ sender w/correct sized pump. Even if I reverse the ohms the fuel gauge will still read a little off
3) Modify the CJ sender. Still haven't found a good solution to have a water (gas) tight connection for the wiring.
4) Use a separate fuel hanger. Will need to drill the tank and cap one of the lines on the Jeep sender.

I'm leaning towards option 4. I have an extra fuel hanger/pump from a early 90s Range Rover that fits nicely in the tank. I don't know the rating of the pump but it will run any of the older RV8s (3.9, 4.2, 4.6) so I'm fairly certain it will work on the Jeep 4.0.

I mocked up the set up with an old tank and pump and here is how it would look. I'd just need to add rivnuts to secure the pump hanger and use the Rover cork gasket to seal it up.

Any opinions on set up #4?
Holley also makes a nice unit for the 15 gallon tank. We were just talking about it today on this forum where im having some fuel pump sending unit issues with the Novak unit.

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I saw the Holley pump but it's more than I need to spend for something simple
10-4 on that. Option 3 isn’t bad if you’re handy, its effectively what the Novak unit is. The wiring can be managed in a few ways from bulkhead fittings to insulated studs (thats what Novak has done).


If I had the room I would have used the electrical connectors from Radium Auto, they have a universal one that looks perfect. I don’t have the room though. Option 4 is what I will ultimately do by separating the pump assembly and the sending unit.
 

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If you read this thread:


This is how I solved my problem. Those rings could be used for a fuel pump too. You could also make a set of larger aluminum rings to go on the inside and outside of the tank if you needed more room.
 
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