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Bushing solution

So this was my solution to the missing or damaged bushings in the heater box. I used a nylon spacer and a nylon washer, both found at Ace Hardware. I superglued the two together and bam. I cut one short to duplicate the height, but ended up leaving two as pictured and they fit great and no additional washers were needed.
 

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I just finished doing the heater replacement on my 83 CJ. As many of you who have done this, it’s not hard, but takes time.

Couple things to share. When I removed the heater box apart, I purchased new stainless steel screws from Ace Hardware, nylon washers and jam nuts. I also bought a large piece of black foam (eBay) to cut replacement foam out of, one side with an adhesive peel back. When apart I compared the existing/stock heater core to the aftermarket replacement, which was aluminum and made overseas. There was just no comparison quality wise, so I too the existing core to a local radiator shop and had it record. Also, since I was planning to do this replacement once, I ordered and installed 5 new MTS cables, which are made in the USA and Very high quality. With the mts cables, the area that sort of clips into the various steel u holders is made of steel, and I used a small 2” vice to press them in as there’s no way (that I could thing of) to get them to seat. If you use the mts cables, which I am very pleased with, you need to install the lower portion of the cable to the vent box on the right before you put the heater box back in. There’s no way to press the cable into to the steel clip once the box is installed (I learned that the hard way). I had to remove the vent box (used butyl tape) install/seat cable end, and then reattach to heater box. As you probably know, the replacement fan motors are about a 1/2 inch wider diameter, which means drilling out the firewall. This was the one part of the process I kind of dreaded. I used a hole saw to do it, which ended up working well. To seal the heater box to the steel back, I went with butyl tape (eBay), and while it worked well, it’s a pain to store (it wants to clump into a big ball). Installing the heater box back in took some time, as the 4threaded posts that attach it to the firewall need to line up perfectly. I started by making sure the heater core tubes were in, and then lifted it to get that threaded post through and then secured the post with a screw (my daughter helped). After several more attempts, I gave it the old college try, and all of a sudden I could here (and feel) it seat. Lots of lifting and maneuvering, going back to the firewall to see where the 3posts were.

Started it up last night, no leaks, fan motor works great (better than original), stainless screws against the newly painted heater box gives it a real clean look, cables are smooth and one more thing out of the way.
 

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I tried to do the Blazer motor upgrade in my '76 CJ7 and the results were lacking, to say the least. Makes a hell of a lot of noise, sounds like an F17 when you crank it up to high but the increase in cfm was negligible, if at all. Those years (1976-1977) were just a plain crappy design, so I am upgrading to the 1978-1986 box when I put in my new engine this spring. (The fenders / hood will be off anyway, so it seems like a good time to do the upgrade.) Does anyone know if the newer style (1978-1986) air plenum box will bolt up the underside of the cowl on a 1976 body? Thanks!
 

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My turn to ask the same old questions:

Has anyone figured out a solid solution for the heater diversion flap seal?

What about the rubber bumpers?
 

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Nylon isolator washer option

I thought I'd share my findings from a little local search for something that would work for replacing the nylon spacers for the vent box flapper. Our local hardware store didn't have any nylon spacers or washers, but I found something passing from Home Depot and something perfect from NAPA.

What I went with was nylon bezel nuts for a #10 screw for $5.99 off the shelf at NAPA. I ended up drilling the hole out to 3/16" for a nice tight tolerance, but there's plenty of room to go bigger if you want a looser fit. The backing snaps into the hole perfectly and sits in place nicely so the rod spins in the isolator rather than the isolator spinning in the vent box hole bore.

Napa 665-1376
14 pcs in the bag
#10 screw size
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6651376

If folks are looking for other alternatives in a pinch, I found that Home Depot has some bi-fold door repair kits that have perfect size shoulder washers. A little pricey at $7.99 for a bunch of stuff you don't need, but will work in a pinch.
 

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I lucked out. I "inherited" a project from my nephew. But he had found and purchased a complete new heater/air box somewhere. I have no clue where he got it. Understand this thing was submerged, sat at a family friends house for a few years, then in his garage for 12 years. I'm doing a frame up restore.Body is in poor shape, and water damage/mechanical issues. If you need pictures (of the air handler) can post them. I'm presently rebuilding a Dana 30 for the front end.
 

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Ok, I have read this a few times, tried to keep up with updates, etc, but I do not remember if there is anything mentioned about the cowel air inlet box and stripped screw holes.

I only have 4 screws in mine right now, as the rest are stripped bigger than the #10 screws I have for it.

Is there any permanent fix to fill the holes or make them smaller?

Sent from my SM-A716V using Tapatalk
 

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Ok, I have read this a few times, tried to keep up with updates, etc, but I do not remember if there is anything mentioned about the cowel air inlet box and stripped screw holes.

I only have 4 screws in mine right now, as the rest are stripped bigger than the #10 screws I have for it.

Is there any permanent fix to fill the holes or make them smaller?

Sent from my SM-A716V using Tapatalk
Nothing you can really do. Just try to find a stainless screw with the same head size and larger thread.
 

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Is this the proper "open" orientation? Seems like it needs to be open more and there is a stop at the 90 degree location. I can't remember how it was when I disassembled it.
Mine is doing the same thing, opens to about 90 degrees. I couldn't remember for the life of me how far it was supposed to open. Glad I'm not the only one!
 

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Blower motor question:
Is the Napa 655-1039 blower motor the same size as the VDO PM-102 one? That 655-1039 looks huge in the first picture it’s shown in. I saw a 4 Seasons PM-102 and it looked tiny. Didn’t realize how small the OEM actually is though. Quite small.

Also, downloaded some ‘79 CJ pdf templates for all the seals. Does the ‘79 work on a ‘85 CJ? Hate to cut the foam to the wrong specs!
 
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