I used closed cell foam that is sold by the sf at the local kayaking outdoor shop. It’s typically used for kayak seat and other types of padding. It worked great- available in different thicknesses, easy to work with, smooth for a good seal, chemical resistant, glueable and cheap!
CJ Heater Box Restoration...pic heavy!!
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I took the dash out of my '84 CJ7 and after re-installing it, found that I didn't label which heater cables went where. The indicator lights are (top to bottom): AIR (heat, vent), TEMP, and defrost. One cable is longer that the others and I assume that it goes to the right of the passenger vent. I'm going to assume that the defrost goes to the upper actuating lever, and the TEMP cable goes to the lowest lever. Is that correct?
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Great thread and I'm loving having heat
Thanks everyone that has contributed. I read all 29 pages. LOL So Starting with Page one, I gotta give a thumbs up to the mcmaster dot com products. I used the foam as described and also got the Butly Mastic Strip cault tape as well. Much like the rope caulking in one of the suggestions and put a double strand around the box to seal it. Just like the guy mentioned. It was easy to work with, and not messy at all.
86225K53 - 1/4" foam 14.24
86225K57 - 1" foam ... 27.91
9408T17 Butyl Mastic Strip, 3/16" Diameter, 45' Long, 8 Pieces
Now my 82 CJ 7 is kind of a Frankenstein creature. Lot of bad mechanics over the years, and I picked this one because of the fiberglass body. I'm pretty good mechanically and really didn't want to deal with body rust. So I knew from looking at it. I am info some definite challenges. I just put that out here because while reading many of the discussion about the Blazer motor upgrade, it didn't work for some folks. For me it was tight. it just barely cleared my battery box. Not sure if that's because it's that close or I got lucky. the PO didn't know much about the history and who ever did the body conversion was a hack. But in the end, for me the Napa motor worked, had the plugs in the box and when I used a 3 1/2 whole saw to enlarge and repair the chain drilled whole, it work out just fine. Again my body is fiberglass. So I couldn't comment on an actual 82 with an original body.I will mention that because of my fiberglass body. I did ground the blower motor to a ground I"ve installed for everything inside the jeep. I seem to remember from my days in a garage 30+ years ago that jeeps did have a lot of ground problems, and fiberglass isn't going to help. I've add a lot of extra grounding straps to help remedy those issues.
Napa
# 66031158 94609 399210. The 399210 on the box matched an AutoZone number someone else had good luck with.
Loved the guy that made the urethane bushings. Definitely a bit over the top for me, but the other suggestion on the 3/8" fuel hose fit inside a pc. of 5/8" heater hose. Worked well to make the standoff's for case to firewall. I also used the 3/16" caulk to help hold them to the studs.
One of my studs was missing.. Hats off to my local Ace Hardware. I was able to get a great bolt with a huge head on it to take the place of the missing stud. I'll post a pic if I'm allowed. Since I'm new on the forum, Not sure I have that privilege yet. Aces was good for many of the small parts. I got plastic bushings and washers to help keep stuff in align, PB Blaster. the push on nuts for the cables and all sorts of great hardware. the push on nuts were 3/16" worked great.
So now I at least have basic heat in my jeep. Next step will be to fold the windshield down and see what it will take to hook up defrost. My windshield frame doesn't have vents on it. So I have to look at that next.
Again thanks for all the suggestions, and yeah I did see about 20+ requests for the part numbers.. LOL
Thanks everyone that has contributed. I read all 29 pages. LOL So Starting with Page one, I gotta give a thumbs up to the mcmaster dot com products. I used the foam as described and also got the Butly Mastic Strip cault tape as well. Much like the rope caulking in one of the suggestions and put a double strand around the box to seal it. Just like the guy mentioned. It was easy to work with, and not messy at all.
86225K53 - 1/4" foam 14.24
86225K57 - 1" foam ... 27.91
9408T17 Butyl Mastic Strip, 3/16" Diameter, 45' Long, 8 Pieces
Now my 82 CJ 7 is kind of a Frankenstein creature. Lot of bad mechanics over the years, and I picked this one because of the fiberglass body. I'm pretty good mechanically and really didn't want to deal with body rust. So I knew from looking at it. I am info some definite challenges. I just put that out here because while reading many of the discussion about the Blazer motor upgrade, it didn't work for some folks. For me it was tight. it just barely cleared my battery box. Not sure if that's because it's that close or I got lucky. the PO didn't know much about the history and who ever did the body conversion was a hack. But in the end, for me the Napa motor worked, had the plugs in the box and when I used a 3 1/2 whole saw to enlarge and repair the chain drilled whole, it work out just fine. Again my body is fiberglass. So I couldn't comment on an actual 82 with an original body.I will mention that because of my fiberglass body. I did ground the blower motor to a ground I"ve installed for everything inside the jeep. I seem to remember from my days in a garage 30+ years ago that jeeps did have a lot of ground problems, and fiberglass isn't going to help. I've add a lot of extra grounding straps to help remedy those issues.
Napa
# 66031158 94609 399210. The 399210 on the box matched an AutoZone number someone else had good luck with.
Loved the guy that made the urethane bushings. Definitely a bit over the top for me, but the other suggestion on the 3/8" fuel hose fit inside a pc. of 5/8" heater hose. Worked well to make the standoff's for case to firewall. I also used the 3/16" caulk to help hold them to the studs.
One of my studs was missing.. Hats off to my local Ace Hardware. I was able to get a great bolt with a huge head on it to take the place of the missing stud. I'll post a pic if I'm allowed. Since I'm new on the forum, Not sure I have that privilege yet. Aces was good for many of the small parts. I got plastic bushings and washers to help keep stuff in align, PB Blaster. the push on nuts for the cables and all sorts of great hardware. the push on nuts were 3/16" worked great.
So now I at least have basic heat in my jeep. Next step will be to fold the windshield down and see what it will take to hook up defrost. My windshield frame doesn't have vents on it. So I have to look at that next.
Again thanks for all the suggestions, and yeah I did see about 20+ requests for the part numbers.. LOL
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Great pics! I'm doing the same thing right now for my 79 CJ5.
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685 Posts
Redid mine. Came out great. Was able to get the OEM brass core patched up (leaking on inlet) and pressure tested. Was in much better shape than I had hoped. Still cleaned, lubed, added blazer blower motor. Reinstalled. Very happy
Actually had enough parts (thought I would need replacements) to build a whole second unit (upper and lower systems). Used a new aluminum core, did the blower upgrade. Currently for sale in the classifieds section.
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Actually had enough parts (thought I would need replacements) to build a whole second unit (upper and lower systems). Used a new aluminum core, did the blower upgrade. Currently for sale in the classifieds section.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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thank you for your kind information.
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I had to change out the heater core, so pulled it all out and rebuilt everything. Upgraded the fan motor and it is wonderful. For 2 of the door hinges that the plastic was egg shaped I got creative, gutted large rivets, ground them to length and the shafts fit and work perfectly. Drove home from the lake last night, and my wife really appreciated all the toasty air on her feet/legs in the cool of the evening. Should have rebuilt it all years ago!
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Ok - I'm really interested in upgrading my heater, but I have the '77 model that the motor doesn't go through the firewall. Is there still an option for me to upgrade? Everything I've read says you can't do this specific upgrade, it's even mentioned earlier in the thread, but is there another upgrade that can be done?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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Probably best to start a new thread on this subject and then come back and put a link to it on this post so they can reference back to it later.
I think there was a better motor but not a simple fix as this one is.
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