Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I started a thread years ago on the build I was doing to my '99 Sahara and after 20+ years in New England, the salt took its toll and rusted the whole build to the point where it wasn't drivable anymore. (Previous Build thread here: dpegasusm's 99 TJ Sahara Build) So of course the only logical thing to do was to take the entire car apart and rebuild it piece by piece.... logical... So here it is a thread on the rebuild of a Jeep TJ piece by piece starting with the teardown.

The old Jeep was completely dismantled, and most parts were pulled off and evaluated to see if they were useable or needed to be replaced:
Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle Wheel


The axles were pulled out, engine pulled out and various other components stripped off and bagged and tagged for later reuse.

The whole idea of the rebuild was to build a jeep that would last in New England so every step of the way considerations were made as how to New England proof things.

Parts List for the rebuild:
OME Front and Rear Shocks
Dana 44 Rear End
HP Dana 30 Front End
Warn Zeon 8S Winch
Custom Front Bumper
ORO SwayLoc Sway Bar system
Savvy Offroad Gas tank Skid Plate
Savvy Offroad Tail Lights
Savvy License plate bracket
Rancho Shocks
Poison Spyder Roll Cage
genright/PS seat belt relocators
LOD Rear Bumper
Advance Adapters Slip Yoke Eliminator
Under Cover Fabworks Transfer Case Skid
Genright Frame tie ins
Under Cover Fabworks Tailgate Hinges
Stainless steel Brake/Fuel and Transmission Lines
Novak Cable shift Link
Delta Skybar LED
Delta Under Bumper Bar
Corbeau Seat Heaters
Automatic Transmission Deep Pan

OE Parts that have been redone:
New frame
Tub completely redone
Seat reupholstered and heaters installed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A brand new frame was sourced and then it was blasted and hot galvanized at a local galvanizing shop and painted over the galvanizing with black epoxy coating. Should hve taken more pictures of this along the way but sadly my excitement for getting the work done overpowered the need to document it and I only have a few of the the early process post galvanizing:

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive design
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive exterior Wood
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Light Hood Tire


The hot dip went well but since the TJ frame does not have good drainage (shocking) a lot more zinc was left inside the frame in large clumps than I would have liked but I guess its better to have more zinc than less.

A few learnings from this for anyone else who wants to try it:
  • Zinc is like glue and will cause anything that you have left on the frame to be permanently stuck there, This includes any bolts that may be left in any location - They will most certainly be stuck in place and not be able to be removed without breaking.
  • You have two options with the bolt holes, Attempt to leave a bolt in the hole and pray you can get it out afterwards or get a high quality tap set and tap the holes after the fact. I opted to tap the large holes and have the small holes filled with bolts. Even with brand new bolts in the holes, All but two of the bolts broke leading to a lot more drilling work than anticipated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Opted to go with the Poison Spyder Aftermarket Roll cage since the OE one had rotted out. It needed some modification to fit the OE seatbelt harnesses but it came pre assembled which was nice. The brackets for the factory seatbelts from the Genright cage were used with a little modification and PS makes bolt mounts to bolt the seatbelts to. Needed some drilling and welding to acommodate the bolt holes and then was sent off to the painter where it got blasted and coated with a black epoxy two part.

Tradesman Road surface Asphalt Blue-collar worker Gas
Asphalt Wood Road surface Gas Composite material
Triangle Wood Composite material Metal Automotive exterior
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The front and rear axle were originally a Dana 30 and Dana 35 and after looking around they were swapped out for a Dana 30 High Pinion out of a Cherokee and a Dana 44 Rear axle out of a 2005 Rubicon. The Rear axle was fitted with an ARB air locker. The axles were media blasted and painted black and all of the wear items were replaced; ball joints, bushings, etc.

Before:

Automotive tire Gas Shipping box Machine Motor vehicle
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Tread Engineering


After blasting and installation:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering
Motor vehicle Engineering Automotive tire Hood Gas


OME springs were used in the front and rear of the rebuild, along with rancho shocks.

Automotive tire Hood Tire Tread Motor vehicle


At the same time purchased a set of Metalcloak Control arms and had them painted black as well:
Camera lens Wood Camera accessory Bicycle part Tool
Glasses Wood Sunglasses Tool Gas
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Front Bumper is custom and Rear bumper is LOD Rear Bumper. Both were hot dipped galvanized and painted black. Front bumper houses a Warn Winch and uses the Delta Light Bar underneath it. (pics of those later)

Both Light Bars are from DELTA lights and have been fitted with LED lights and completely stripped of factory powder coating and painted black. Also Brand new wiring harnesses were made with a larger gauge wire.

Lower Light Bar
Wood Musical instrument Flooring Hardwood Gas
Automotive tire Wood Body jewelry Tread Jewellery


Upper Light Bar

Hood Eyewear Wood Font Rectangle
Musical instrument Wood Air gun Shotgun Office supplies
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I dont have a lot of pictures of the actual body restoration being done, as it was sent off to be completely restored and every spot of rust cut out and new panels put in. Afterwards it was sent to a place to be primed. Since this is new england, Enter Zinc again and the whole tub was coated in multiple layers of zinc primer (at this point I think most of the zinc in new england is on this vehicle) All the body parts were given the same treatment of zinc and then a white epoxy primer. The firewall, inside the dash area of the tub and the undercarriage was painted with a two part epoxy finish after wth a poly top coat for protection. New front fenders were purchased along with a few other new parts:

Vehicle Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire


Grill and Cowl in White primer:
Hood Grille Automotive lighting Automotive design Electronic instrument
Automotive design Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Automotive tire


And Finally:

Wheel Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood



Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Car Vehicle


See the LOD rear bumper in the last pic if you're interested in how it came out post galvanizing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
For body Reassembly I have a few questions for anyone who hgas done it before. The factory seems to have used nothing between the front fenders and the tub Was thinking using RTV or Strip Caulk but not sure. Referencing previous discussions on this here:


Anyone have any thoughts or recommendations?

Also There is a foil on the back of the Windshield hinges as beautifully described in this thread:


Has anyone found where to purchase a similar two sided foil tape to use as an insulator? Preferably in sheets.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Also in need of recommendations for an amplifier that ideally will fit under the drivers seat to power the sound in the car. Have been looking at this one: JL Audio XD700/5v2 but does anyone have any recommendations in the same price point?
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top