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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have one old repair - and it was done without stainless brake line - it is the top one - all other ones look great - can I just redo that area and use compression fittings? Anyone have a diagram of these lines with part numbers?
 

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Mopar Nut
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I have spliced in sections of line before with compression unions many times. But only on absolute beaters. I also keep a couple unions and some copper line in my road side emergency kit. The problem with splicing in just a portion, is that it often just finds the next weakest section and blows out there, usually in a panic stop when you need brakes the most. For a daily driver or something I at least plan on keeping a while, I would replace the entire line.

I'll add as an FYI, Dorman makes a stainless steel master kit for the WJ. All preformed SS lines, about $120. However it is listed as being for 2002-04. Not sure how 99-01 differs. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-100208-919-238.aspx?origin=oesearch
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks - I just now ordered that whole Dorman set - I just need one line - but the rest can be put into storage. An odd thing is my mechanic said he was afraid of replacing the whole line because it goes into the main ABS controller hub and he said working on that can often cause all kind of ABS troubles. I think if one is careful it should be fine - any thoughts? I know the ABS controllers often have a known solder joint connection issue - but mine is acting fine right now...
 

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The problem with compressions is the unlikely, but feasible failure mode where the tube will be pulled out through the compression ball. This cannot happen with flared fittings.
 

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Mopar Nut
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The problem with compressions is the unlikely, but feasible failure mode where the tube will be pulled out through the compression ball. This cannot happen with flared fittings.
Only times I've seen them come apart is when they weren't properly tightened. As such, if they didn't come apart or leak right away, they are probably fine. But, you certainly aren't wrong - flared fittings are better.....
 
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Mopar Nut
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I think if one is careful it should be fine - any thoughts?
I can't say I've ever heard of your mechanic's concern before, but perhaps someone that has will chime in here. I can say that replaced the entire line to the rear axle, and had no issues. There is lots of reviews on the Dorman kit on Amazon as well. Of those I've actually read, no one mentions any ABS issues. Only one bad review, 2 stars, and he is complaining his kit didn't have a union for the 2 piece line to the rear axle *eye roll*.....

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-919-2..._cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8#customerReviews

If you aren't already familiar, consider some Russell Speed Bleed bleeder valves too. Anytime I touch brakes on any car of mine, I upgrade to these. 1 pair is about $12. They have a check valve in them so you don't have to open and close the bleeder as someone else pumps. Even easier than a vacuum bleeder. Pop on a hose, open the valve, and pump pump pump your brakes! Especially nice when you have to purge that long line to the rear of air. Such a simple and cheap upgrade, I am surprised these aren't OEM on most cars....
 
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Mopar Nut
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Even if they were only a penny more expensive than standard bleeders (and they're *more* than a penny more expensive) they wouldn't make it to OEM.
Unfortunately, you're right. If they can cut cost, they will cut cost.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is there any reason to replace more than just the one bad line? I got the Dorman set - but only one of the OEM lines is bad. It had been patched with a non stainless section at some time before I bought the Jeep and it had rusted out. The rest of the stainless steel OEM lines look good.
 

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Mopar Nut
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Brake lines generally rot from the outside in. If they pass a visual inspection, you will more than likely be fine. Even a shop would probably only replace the one if all else looks fine. However if I had the whole set on the shelf, I personally would probably do them all (IF I had a lower mileage and rust-free WJ, that is - I don't expect my current to be on the road much longer than another year), but that is more for OCD reasons vs anything else....
 

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"Over time, the brake fluid can corrode the copper and steel. If the brake fluid ages and the corrosion fighting chemicals break down, a system can corrode internally at a very fast rate.24 Jan 2013"

Why do brake lines rust? and who is this Bundy guy?
http://www.safebraking.com › why-do-brake-lines-rust-an...
 

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Mopar Nut
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"Over time, the brake fluid can corrode the copper and steel.


While true, as I even possess brake fluid test strips that check for copper, in the near 4 decades I have been wrenching I've yet to see a line rot from the inside out. Every single one I have blown, and there has been a lot, blew at a section that was rusted through. As such, I have to disagree with whomever you Googled (again) that says "can corrode internally at a very fast rate". While Google is certainly useful and a wealth of information, I find real world and first hand experience to hold a higher value.
 
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Thanks - I just now ordered that whole Dorman set - I just need one line - but the rest can be put into storage. An odd thing is my mechanic said he was afraid of replacing the whole line because it goes into the main ABS controller hub and he said working on that can often cause all kind of ABS troubles I very much doubt it, in any event, all he has to do is bleed the ABS, also, see below.. I think if one is careful it should be fine - any thoughts? I know the ABS controllers often have a known solder joint connection issue - but mine is acting fine right now...
Your mechanic will need someone to watch piston movement through the holes at the bottom of the MC reservoir to make sure the pedal is positioned correctly here.

If your mechanic pushes the brake pedal down
until the piston blocks the holes from reservoir into master cylinder,
puts a spacer under the pedal,
and holds the pedal there with a pedal depressor, or summat handy,
the fluid will stay in the ABS, so no probs.

Best to take the depressor out when the job's done.

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgur...hUKEwj82O3mq8X0AhXL44UKHYoyAQ4QMygRegUIARDyAQ
 

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While true, as I even possess brake fluid test strips that check for copper, in the near 4 decades I have been wrenching I've yet to see a line rot from the inside out. Every single one I have blown, and there has been a lot, blew at a section that was rusted through. As such, I have to disagree with whomever you Googled (again) that says "can corrode internally at a very fast rate". While Google is certainly useful and a wealth of information, I find real world and first hand experience to hold a higher value.
Thanks Mr B.

You have an opinion.
http://www.safebraking.com/ has an opinion.
Excellent.

About your test strips, when you test, do you test samples you've taken from a slave cylinder, by pushing back the piston after blocking the M/C inlet ports at all?

If so, how did the slave cylinder sample compare with a master cylinder sample please?

Here's Part of Firestone's take on "WHAT IS BRAKE FLUID CORROSION?
Brake fluid itself doesn't corrode but when the additive package, which is part of the brake fluid, is depleted or breaks down, the brake fluid no longer has adequate anticorrosive inhibitors so corrosion of internal brake hydraulic components may occur.
"
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Are the original OEM mopar lines stainless? These Dorman lines are said to be. The only rust I see what seems to be mostly surface rust on the nuts that attach to the ABS hub thing... Please see photo attached.
 

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Mopar Nut
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Are the original OEM mopar lines stainless?
Not sure what OEM used, but do know from a number of years designing dairy production machines that low grade stainless does rust in time as well. 304 stainless is better than steel, but does have chromium in it and will rust in time, accelerated by salt air and salty winter roads. 316 stainless has molybdenum which makes it even more corrosion resistant and probably won't rust, at least within your lifetime. 316 is also harder, and won't draw a magnet. A magnet will stick to 304, albeit a weaker draw than steel. 316 is therefore more expensive, so I would bet on Dorman using the cheaper 304. Same for OEM, assuming they used stainless.
 

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If you aren't already familiar, consider some Russell Speed Bleed bleeder valves too. Anytime I touch brakes on any car of mine, I upgrade to these. 1 pair is about $12. They have a check valve in them so you don't have to open and close the bleeder as someone else pumps. Even easier than a vacuum bleeder. Pop on a hose, open the valve, and pump pump pump your brakes! Especially nice when you have to purge that long line to the rear of air. Such a simple and cheap upgrade, I am surprised these aren't OEM on most cars....
I'm looking at the application chart for these on Russell's website, and it's not showing the WJ listed.
( http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/truck-suv.shtml )

Going to guess it would be # 639590 since it lists compatibility for the ZJ & TJ.
 

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Are the original OEM mopar lines stainless? All but one of the brake pipes on my Steyr built GC are Bundy tubes. The odd one is hand formed copper Harv.These Dorman lines are said to be. The only rust I see what seems to be mostly surface rust on the nuts that attach to the ABS hub thing... Please see photo attached.
As I understand it, the pipe in question is rusted partway along it's length Harv.
 
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