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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, new member here. I have wanted to own a CJ7 since I was a kid, stoked on yesterdays purchase.

1. What is a good rust treatment I can do at home, or is it easy to screw up and I should get a body shop to quote?
2. How do you secure your large dogs in the CJ7 when it is all open without a soft top roof?
3. Because of question 2, I am looking at buying one of these, any pitfalls to this that anyone is aware of?


Many thanks in advance.
 

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1978 Jeep Cj5 OEM AMC 304
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I had a harness with a seatbelt on it for my 40# dog.
the seatbelt was on the bottom of the harness I think.
I had no back seat in the Jeep and had to buy a seatbelt to bolt in for him.
 
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What is a good rust treatment
rustproofing gun kit with rustproofing,
Rustproofing? A scam that’s been going on since the 1970s …

You can treat rust by sanding/wire brushing, and applying a rust converter primer. Then two coats of paint or so.

You can fix rust by sanding to clean metal or replacing metal if it’s not possible to sand and prep for paint.

You can aid rust by applying rustproofing (sic) or painting over it with some coating so it can rust from the inside out.

You can stall rust by coating everything with fluidfilm. You can avoid rust starting with fluidfilm also.
 

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put the dogs in a crate in the back (after removing the back seat), with the crate secured to the floor - either by bolting it down, or strapping it in place.
 
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Rustproofing is possible but it is a multistage process. Injecting it into the cavities is a good start but it also needs to go on the underside and under the car... pets.

Start with removing any signs of rust, repair holes, remove old underseal, then use a rust converter and blow it through all the cavities.

If I have gone back to metal I follow up with a primer layer, just an oxide primer. It is not possible to get inside the cavities with it.

then a water dispersant agent to get rid of the rust converter,

Then a cavity wax, I use Dinitrol but plenty out there. Important you get a good gun and wand and use plenty of pressure. i warm the wax first in a bucket of hot water.

Then apply whatever underside protectant you want. I use a Dinitrol product.

Then go over everything and add more wax to anywhere you feel comfortable. I have removed plastic body kits and gone in behind, even added to parts of the engine bay and behind headlights. As long as it is clean and unrusted, wax will help it survive.

It will never cure 100% your rust issues and it will not repair damage already done, but it can keep widespread rust at bay.

I carry my German shepherds in the CJ, they love it. I also have them in the open Willy's. They are good dogs and do not want to jump out, too much fun putting the nose into the wind.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
put the dogs in a crate in the back (after removing the back seat), with the crate secured to the floor - either by bolting it down, or strapping it in place.
Rustproofing is possible but it is a multistage process. Injecting it into the cavities is a good start but it also needs to go on the underside and under the car... pets.

Start with removing any signs of rust, repair holes, remove old underseal, then use a rust converter and blow it through all the cavities.

If I have gone back to metal I follow up with a primer layer, just an oxide primer. It is not possible to get inside the cavities with it.

then a water dispersant agent to get rid of the rust converter,

Then a cavity wax, I use Dinitrol but plenty out there. Important you get a good gun and wand and use plenty of pressure. i warm the wax first in a bucket of hot water.

Then apply whatever underside protectant you want. I use a Dinitrol product.

Then go over everything and add more wax to anywhere you feel comfortable. I have removed plastic body kits and gone in behind, even added to parts of the engine bay and behind headlights. As long as it is clean and unrusted, wax will help it survive.

It will never cure 100% your rust issues and it will not repair damage already done, but it can keep widespread rust at bay.

I carry my German shepherds in the CJ, they love it. I also have them in the open Willy's. They are good dogs and do not want to jump out, too much fun putting the nose into the wind.
Rad and informative response, thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
put the dogs in a crate in the back (after removing the back seat), with the crate secured to the floor - either by bolting it down, or strapping it in place.
This is a solid idea, unfortunately I just left a perfect Gunner kennel/crate in VA, drat. I was definitely considering removing the back seat for my dog to have a better space back there, decisions decisions.
 

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I had the back seat out with a couple of big dog beds strapped down with the harness sticking up between them. My dog Niko had the best Jeep dog life.
 

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Rustproofing is possible but it is a multistage process. Injecting it into the cavities is a good start but it also needs to go on the underside and under the car...
I live in northern New England. Vehicles not ‘rustproofed’ do eventually rust out. But you can see it and fix it.
Cars that were ‘rustproofed?’ Locks moisture and creeping road crap into hidden places but looks great! Until one day it blisters a bit and you poke at it only to find the entire unibody has rusted from the inside out. I’ll never be convinced to use rustproofing, ever.

Rustproofing does three things:
  • separates you from your money
  • gives you a warm fuzzy
  • insures that cars completely rust out from the inside out EVER HEAR OF PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE?
 

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I live in northern New England. Vehicles not ‘rustproofed’ do eventually rust out. But you can see it and fix it.
Cars that were ‘rustproofed?’ Locks moisture and creeping road crap into hidden places but looks great! Until one day it blisters a bit and you poke at it only to find the entire unibody has rusted from the inside out. I’ll never be convinced to use rustproofing, ever.

Rustproofing does three things:
  • separates you from your money
  • gives you a warm fuzzy
  • insures that cars completely rust out from the inside out EVER HEAR OF PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE?
If it’s done probably BEFORE the vehicle starts to rust...the proper material will greatly help prevent rust.
I live in Northeast Ohio. I generally don’t waste my time with cars from around here. I had a 99 Subaru Forester I got from SC, used a wax type rustproofing when I got it home and 6 years later it had zero signs of rust anywhere. I use fluid film mostly now and it helps slow rust that is already there, but nothing short of cutting it out and welding new in can stop it for long.
Yes the black rubber undercoating is not the best choice and will cover the rust and it will keep rusting underneath.
 

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it’s done probably BEFORE the vehicle starts to rust...the proper material will greatly help prevent rust.
I was talking brand new cars
use fluid film mostly now and it helps slow rust that is already there,
I HATE that stuff. It’s awful crap to have to work around.

But it’s the only thing I’ve seen actually work. I use it frequently.
 

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@CJ7research
Good to hear you've picked up a cj7. yeay

I've owned my cj7 for many years, and has been a great cow-trail jeep. (Novak T-18 adapted).
Here on the Pacific side of the great USA, I suffer through sandblasting areas (many) which I cannot scuff up with a wire brush and emery cloth.
I have retrofitted my pressure washer with nice disconnect fittings. For pressure flushing inside a boxed frame best as possible for us backyard mech's is adapt an elbow onto the fitting which would otherwise screw into the jet knozzle. This allows you to snipe around the corners through holes in the chassis rails to hopefully dislodge and blow out debris.

I use Krylon or Rustoleum in either or both brush on or aerosol cans. Layer after layer.
Once cleaned and painted, everything is much easier to then keep clean.

Look up a sandblasting chart for cfm (8 min) and constant pressure (90psi min). Ugh $$$
Air Compressor's aren't cheap.
 

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+1. I have a TigerTop on mine and while it's a quality product (as Bestop is known for), there are a few things about it I've grown to loathe over the years:
  • Snaps. They suck... period. SuperTops come with a 'channel' mounting system that you can use for other accessories (tonneau cover, cargo nets, et al)
  • 1-piece soft doors. SuperTops come with 2-piece doors - you can either unzip the windows, or remove the upper door half altogether if you like (options)
  • Oddball door shape. TigerTop doors have the squared-off opening vs. the rounded opening of SuperTops (don't know if they fit an OE YJ-style top or not - who cares, actually). SuperTops allow the use of full metal hard doors with the soft top (can save money, or just use the hard doors if you like)
  • Roll-up 'Safari' windows - kinda suck. SuperTops have 'zip-out' windows, which means you can remove them for a much cleaner look
  • (added via edit): They also only come in Black Vinyl - no denim or sailcloth [like SuperTops]
Yes, they're more expensive, but the SuperTop definitely offers the greatest value.

As for keeping the pooches in the back, there are also some cool cargo net type accessories out there. For instance, I had a bed web strung over my roll bar to the back of the Jeep - no reason, I just thought it looked cool. That could work for the dogs.

The SuperTop might be able to accommodate some zip-in mesh windows that could help give the dogs plenty of fresh air, while helping to keep them inside.

This Jeep has a later-model YJ "Family Bar" roll bar, with an aftermarket cargo net. I'm not sure who makes them, or if swapping in a Family Bar is something you want to do, but it's also a cool way to go. For Sale: 1986 Jeep CJ7 in Kentwood, Michigan

That's about all I can think of. Hope this helps.
 

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Hi all, new member here. I have wanted to own a CJ7 since I was a kid, stoked on yesterdays purchase.

1. What is a good rust treatment I can do at home, or is it easy to screw up and I should get a body shop to quote?
2. How do you secure your large dogs in the CJ7 when it is all open without a soft top roof?
3. Because of question 2, I am looking at buying one of these, any pitfalls to this that anyone is aware of?


Many thanks in advance.
If you have access to a lift or can get the CJ7 in the air, you could use the DINITROL product. Busted Auto Parts can supply-www.bustedautoparts.com
Please feel free to give me a call if you have any questions in advance. Jeff Johnston 740.548.1656
 

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