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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK....I've seen many threads started about body lifts, body mount locations, the number of body mount bolts, how to remove them, etc., so I thought I'd start a detailed thread after I located all of mine.

This thread was inspired by a post in an earlier thread about stuck and rusted body mount bolts where a poster (sorry, can't remember who) suggested to drill a small hole near each bolt in order to spray it liberally with PB Blaster.

All of the pix are from the pass side of mi rig, which is an '89. It should be the same for most. I will try to describe the locations as accurately as I can, but feel free to reply if I didn't make it clear enough.

There are a total of 11 bolts and I'll start at the front and work my way to the back.

The first one is located under the front bumper and dead center below the radiator. Pretty simple.



The second one is located very near the rear leaf spring mount of the front spring, and can be sprayed without drilling the floor of the tub. Just get under there and you'll see what I mean. Repeat for driver side.



The third one is a bit more tricky. You need to drill a small hole (1/4" or 3/8" is fine) right in front of the seat bracket that is closest to the rocker (not the bracket nearest the trans hump). This will allow you to spray the PB right onto the offending bolt/nut plate. If you get it right, you'll see PB dripping from underneath. Repeat for driver side.



The fourth one is located behind the front seat, near the rollbar and front seatbelt mounts, directly under a little bump in the floor (about the size of half a golf ball). When you drill this hole, you will hit the top of the bolt end which is about a 1/4" below the bump. Repeat for driver side.



The fifth one is located inside the tub, under the rear seat. Fold the seat out of the way and follow the raised support ridge nearest the wheel well, about 18"-20" in from the back door jamb (kinda near the rear seat belt mount) and you'll see a little extension off the ridge. The bolt is located directly under that extension. With this one, I found that the bolt end was right smack against the metal of the tub, so I drilled the hole a little off center and it worked fine. Repeat for driver side.



Last but not least is the one located at the very rear corner of the tub. For this one, you need to pull the plastic mud guard out of the way (as if you were getting to the wiring for the tank sending unit), and drill the hole in the face of the box that is there for tub support (I believe), and spray in at the side of the bolt as opposed to from the top. See the little silver speck by the arrow? That's the hole. Not the greatest pic.



That's about it. It's a pretty simple job that took me less than an hour. All the sheet metal is not real heavy gauge and drills with ease. I'm gonna spray my bolts a couple of times a day for a week before I even attempt to remove them.

I hope this thread help. I've gotten tons of great info on this board and just wanted to give a little back.
 

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I beleive you have to remove the gas tank for the bolts mounted under the bed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I beleive you have to remove the gas tank for the bolts mounted under the bed.
Not really....If you have a swivel and an extension, you should be able to get to them, but I'll post back next weekend (weather permitting) when I do the BL.
 

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Not really....If you have a swivel and an extension, you should be able to get to them, but I'll post back next weekend (weather permitting) when I do the BL.
Ok. It was the first thing that popped into my head.

I'm glad to see the thread. :thumbsup:
 

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Don't poke the bear
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OK....I've seen many threads started about body lifts, body mount locations, the number of body mount bolts, how to remove them, etc., so I thought I'd start a detailed thread after I located all of mine.

This thread was inspired by a post in an earlier thread about stuck and rusted body mount bolts where a poster (sorry, can't remember who) suggested to drill a small hole near each bolt in order to spray it liberally with PB Blaster.
Excellent write-up, and I can't wait to get home from work to view the pics (they're blocked for me here at work) that you took!

I think you were referring to my post here.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=693392

Again, excellent job!

Max

:cheers2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Don't poke the bear
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Yup....That's the one....And coincidentally, we both have red rigs.
I just saw the pics, they look great! Nice job with great info! :2thumbsup:

I noticed that! I pulled up next to a much newer & cleaner red TJ in traffic the other day, we both had our windows unzipped and the girl driving it gave me the Jeep wave. I yelled out to her, "Love the color!" and she yelled back, "Same here, there's just not enough red Jeeps around!"
:thumbsup:

Max

:cheers2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just saw the pics, they look great! Nice job with great info! :2thumbsup:

I noticed that! I pulled up next to a much newer & cleaner red TJ in traffic the other day, we both had our windows unzipped and the girl driving it gave me the Jeep wave. I yelled out to her, "Love the color!" and she yelled back, "Same here, there's just not enough red Jeeps around!"
:thumbsup:

Max

:cheers2:
Yeah, but was she hot? :D
 

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Don't poke the bear
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
OK....After a couple of weeks spraying PB Blaster on all the mount bolts, I finally installed the 1" BL....All of the bolts came out with little effort except the two rear ones at the tub corners (see last pic, post #1)....They snapped off clean inside the rear box that I think helps support the tub :brickwall :brickwall.

I took a 2-1/8" hole saw I use for cutting locksets into metal entry doors, and cut a hole in the tin support box expecting to have to chisel, grind, or torch the captive nut (plate) out, but to my surprise (and extreme pleasure) It was only held in place by two metal tabs which I simply bent out of the way and removed the plate and rest of the snapped bolt.

I then just put a normal nut and washer in place and thru bolted both sides....I'm gonna go to Homey D tomorrow and buy a couple of galvanized plates used for deck building and screw them over the hole with a couple of self tappers.

I'll post pix after I install my Brandon Booms. :cheers2:
 

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Im looking into putting in a 1" body lift on my 93 YJ. Is there anything besides the actual body mounts that has to be raised or lowered? also are there any special tools you need to lift the tub up off the frame?
I loosen all 11 body bolts first, then remove the front one under the radiator and the 5 along one side or the other, leaving the 5 on the other side still threaded in, but loose. This keeps the tub from shifting out of place.

I usually take the gas filler neck plastic off & then reinstall after the lift to avoid cracking the plastic, the hoses should have enough play in them.

I use a board under the rocker panel to distribute the weight so it doesn't distort the metal from having all the weight in one place.

I use a 1" motor mount lift to keep the fan in line with the radiator shroud, but you don't have to. You can relocate the shroud down 1" instead.

Max :cheers2:
 

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Thanks for the write-up and all the tips. I will be installing my 1inch BL sometime in April. So this gives me plenty of time to "prep" the tub and the bolts with PB Blaster.

My only concern prior to this write-up was where were all the body mount points. Excellent job and thanks!!!
 

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writeup added to FAQ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I loosen all 11 body bolts first, then remove the front one under the radiator and the 5 along one side or the other, leaving the 5 on the other side still threaded in, but loose. This keeps the tub from shifting out of place.

I usually take the gas filler neck plastic off & then reinstall after the lift to avoid cracking the plastic, the hoses should have enough play in them.

I use a board under the rocker panel to distribute the weight so it doesn't distort the metal from having all the weight in one place.

I use a 1" motor mount lift to keep the fan in line with the radiator shroud, but you don't have to. You can relocated the shroud down 1" instead.

Max :cheers2:
That's what I did....Worked fine.
 

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I loosen all 11 body bolts first, then remove the front one under the radiator and the 5 along one side or the other, leaving the 5 on the other side still threaded in, but loose. This keeps the tub from shifting out of place.

I usually take the gas filler neck plastic off & then reinstall after the lift to avoid cracking the plastic, the hoses should have enough play in them.

I use a board under the rocker panel to distribute the weight so it doesn't distort the metal from having all the weight in one place.

I use a 1" motor mount lift to keep the fan in line with the radiator shroud, but you don't have to. You can relocated the shroud down 1" instead.

Max :cheers2:
The only thing to add, is that my kit came with two additional rubber bumpers. they were for the front and go on either side of the front body mount. they just screw into the body/front.

I just did my 1" lift today, but forgot these two. I'll unzip it all tomorrow and add them. I also had a rear bold not unscrew. snapped the head off, so I cut it down and then cut a small 2x3" window inside the fender space to get out that tab and will replace with washers and nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just did my 1" lift today, but forgot these two. I'll unzip it all tomorrow and add them. I also had a rear bold not unscrew. snapped the head off, so I cut it down and then cut a small 2x3" window inside the fender space to get out that tab and will replace with washers and nut.
Check post # 13....Same thing happened to me, but I snapped both rear bolts.
 
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