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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to get my 241 TC installed but want to do the TT at the same time.

I'm in a 2000 TJ (5 speed manual) and will be installing a 241 out of a 2005 Rubicon.

I'm trying to figure out if all things are equal between Rokmen and UCF.

Looking to go 1/4" steel belly and engine skid.

I have NO plans to stretch the back end in the future and will end up on 35" tires when I sell these.

The current plan is a 1 1/4" BL, Novak shifter, 1"mml. I know I will have to massage the tub a little to get it to fit.

Rokmen sells a standard skid. UCF offers a standard and a ultra high clearance skid. For my application, will the ultra high work or will I run into other issues (exhaust etc.)? Also, can you point me in the right direction as far as what style of tranny mount for either skid?

Thanks for the input.
 

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Depends on your suspension travel. The 241 is a pig and pulls so much length out of your driveshaft it really limits your combined tuck/lift/travel options.

Room wise you can virtlually slam it flat with minor sheet metal work. Thats really not an issue. Driveline is the prominent issue with any 241 Tj on a stock wheelbase and LP axle.
 

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Good luck. I know with my setup (Savvy UA, 4" of spring lift, low pinion F9, 12" of rear shock travel, stock wheelbase) there is no reasonable way I could make a rear driveshaft work with a 241. I feel like I am pretty much at the limit with a 231 with SSYE and extra clearancing done to the driveshaft yokes and ball. Teralow or a D300 with 4:1 (although that presents other issues) are only way I can get a 4:1 TC and make rear driveshaft work without stretching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good luck. I know with my setup (Savvy UA, 4" of spring lift, low pinion F9, 12" of rear shock travel, stock wheelbase) there is no reasonable way I could make a rear driveshaft work with a 241. I feel like I am pretty much at the limit with a 231 with SSYE and extra clearancing done to the driveshaft yokes and ball. Teralow or a D300 with 4:1 (although that presents other issues) are only way I can get a 4:1 TC and make rear driveshaft work without stretching.
Couldn't you have just lied to me and told me no problem? :rofl: Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good luck. I know with my setup (Savvy UA, 4" of spring lift, low pinion F9, 12" of rear shock travel, stock wheelbase) there is no reasonable way I could make a rear driveshaft work with a 241. I feel like I am pretty much at the limit with a 231 with SSYE and extra clearancing done to the driveshaft yokes and ball. Teralow or a D300 with 4:1 (although that presents other issues) are only way I can get a 4:1 TC and make rear driveshaft work without stretching.
How much drop on your skid? What about tranny mount?
 

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How much drop on your skid? What about tranny mount?
Savvy UA is 1.5" below the rails in the middle IIRC. Yeah, that sounds right because I believe I am 20.5" under the TC and 22" at the frame rails.

The UA uses a unique transmission mount so I don't have any choices. I've never seen anybody do a direct comparison of the Savvy mount to a UCF lo-pro mount, but I feel like the Savvy mount is pretty low.

IIRC there is somebody on here that ultimately had Blaine take out their 241 and put in a 231 to make a similar setup work.

Unfortunately when you get a point where your driveshaft is seeing 8-9" of lift there just isn't enough room back there to keep the angles down. I think mine shaft is a touch under 21 degrees at ride height and no way I would want to be more. If you play with a right triangle calculator you'll see that as the axle droops the angles go way up. IIRC TW says 35 degrees area is what his driveshafts can handle after the extra clearancing done on them. With 6" of downtravel I am definitely getting to that areas.
 

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One additional thing to look at, Robert Yates says he gets greater angles by using a Toyota rear driveshaft. Tom Wood advised me against that but it sounds like it works for Robert, although I think still with a 231. He can give you more detail on that, but I don't think it is cheap because of the flange conversions that you have to do.
 

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I have the 241 setup with the Rokmen TC and engine skid on my 97 TJ but it does have the 32RH Auto. I had my drive shaft custom made here at a local drive shaft shop in Colorado after I completed the tummy tuck and 241 upgrade. Everything works great. I did not have to massage the tub at all but the Rokmen skid is not flat to the frame rails. I did have to get my exhaust redone by another local exhaust shop because it was hitting the Rokmen skid but that cost 40 bucks for the adjustment so not a big deal. I love the 4:1 crawl ratio that the 241 provides and it makes it a lot easier to get over obstacles that were harder with the 231 case. I did use the Novak shifter cable and followed some write ups to get the 4x4 light and electronic speedo to work correctly. Let me know if you have questions.

I should also mention that I have a 2 1/2" OME lift with a 1.25 JKS body lift and a Brown Dog MML.

I think it would be hard to get a true flat skid in there without some major tub massaging and exhaust work. It is possible for sure but will take some extra work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Interesting. Hope I can figure out a way to make it work. I'm on 3 1/2" of lift with stock wheel base.

The 241 I have already had the flange replaced.



I'll obviously have to take some measurements at full droop to see what my current angles are as well as check the difference between the 231 and 241 to see what difference the DS will have.

If I can't make it work, start sending me offers on the 241! lol
 

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Rule of thumb with the 241 is 6" total lift/tuck combo is about the max you can get and still have decent travel. You should be able to make yours work as long as you stay in that 2.5" tuck range.

If you really wanted to slam it, you could just dial out a bit of suspension to 2.5" or so.

I hate driveline woes. Ha, so much so, my next project on my new jeep is to get a d300 in there, slam it up flat, lower the suspension a bit, and go to a traditional 2 joint shaft. Im trying to get away from CV shafts altogether.
 

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Most of the wheeling here in CO doesn't require as much clearance under the belly as does a Johnson Valley in CA. I would say that going with a Rokmen skid would hopefully keep you under that 6" lift/tuck combo mentioned above. Lakewood Muffler is great to use for the exhaust modes and they are very reasonable. I got my Double Cardan drive shaft at Englewood drive shafts and they were local and reasonable as well. The 4:1 crawl ratio is worth having here in CO especially at the altitude of some of our best trails so I would sacrifice some belly clearance for that. I would talk to Dave at Rokmen since they have done quite a few of these swaps and he was very helpful when I did mine.
 

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Just completed my 241OR into my 2002 (4.0L & 5 Speed) this past December.
I already had a UCF No-BL skid - 3/16" Steel.
Used the UCF LoPro trans mount & Novak cable.

I'm NOT running a BL, and didn't have any plans to.
When I got my 241, I also grabbed the OEM trans mount from the '05 it came from.

A little work with a hammer to clearance the tub on the drivers side and some fab work to combine the exhaust hanger from the '02 trans mount and the '05 trans mount. Re-welded the cat hanger too.

Once it was all bolted up, I measured for a new rear DS from Tom Woods.
Minor adjustment of the rear pinion (down, which was surprising) and good to go.
 

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I hate driveline woes. Ha, so much so, my next project on my new jeep is to get a d300 in there, slam it up flat, lower the suspension a bit, and go to a traditional 2 joint shaft. Im trying to get away from CV shafts altogether.
What do you do about front driveshaft clearance from the transmission pan with the D300? The front output is not offset as much as the 231 right? And then when you clock it flat you are moving the shaft right into the pan? I guess depends which transmission you are using as to how significant the issue could be.
 

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What do you do about front driveshaft clearance from the transmission pan with the D300? The front output is not offset as much as the 231 right? And then when you clock it flat you are moving the shaft right into the pan? I guess depends which transmission you are using as to how significant the issue could be.
I only run manuals so Im good.

I might even put a 176 in there if I can figure out the crank sensor and shift linkage to make my setup even shorter.

Its strictly a little trail rig that will see 35's max. I'd be ok with no OD.

I have 3 D300's and 2 T176's in my spare parts pile, thats why Im throwing this stuff around for my "budget build plan"
 

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I only run manuals so Im good.

I might even put a 176 in there if I can figure out the crank sensor and shift linkage to make my setup even shorter.

Its strictly a little trail rig that will see 35's max. I'd be ok with no OD.

I have 3 D300's and 2 T176's in my spare parts pile, thats why Im throwing this stuff around for my "budget build plan"
Are you refering to the YJ Bill?
 

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I have an 04 Rubicon with 3" suspension lift,1.25" bl, 1" mml, teraflex tummy tuck, Tom woods rear ds and full adjustable arms to get pinion angles set right. The setup works great. No vibes, flat tummy and room for 35s (after I added flat fenders).
 
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