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Discussion Starter · #3,603 ·
Noody magazine day, Noody magazine day! Got the wheels and new cat/muffler in today. The wheels are so sweet I’m pumped.



My little one got himself an upgrade today too. Craigslist score. It’s remote control and he can drive it.





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Going back a little ways, but did you ever look into timing on the motor? My buddy’s V8 swap he was chasing his tail for a while trying to figure out an overheating issue until He finally put a timing light on it and spend some time dialing it in both at idle and under throttle.


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Discussion Starter · #3,605 ·
Going back a little ways, but did you ever look into timing on the motor? My buddy’s V8 swap he was chasing his tail for a while trying to figure out an overheating issue until He finally put a timing light on it and spend some time dialing it in both at idle and under throttle.


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Yeah i did several times, i played with different settings too. I reverified when i got the motor tuned as well and thats where its stayed since last fall. I have another theory im going to test here in the near future... i have the flowkooler hi flow water pump, and i think its moving water too fast through the radiator under load, which may be why it runs hot driving but cools down at idle and low throttle input. im going to put a stock waterpump back in and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,606 ·
I found my older water pump in my garage, I’m debating swapping it in or getting a new one. It’s a little rusty inside. I would assume this is normal, but what would you guys do?

If I remember right I swapped in a new pump after fighting with cooling early on with the first engine. If true. it’s relatively new considering the motor swap. 4-5 years old “maybe” with a couple thousand miles on it tops. The fan mounting is still shiny and the outside of the pump is fairly clean.





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As long as the impeller is ok, you could swap it back on and run some thermocure through the system. That would get rid of the rust in the water pump as well as any other rust buildup inside the engine block. I was amazed by how much rust was inside the 4.0 I. My XJ.


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Discussion Starter · #3,608 ·
As long as the impeller is ok, you could swap it back on and run some thermocure through the system. That would get rid of the rust in the water pump as well as any other rust buildup inside the engine block. I was amazed by how much rust was inside the 4.0 I. My XJ.


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It’s a brand new engine. Better not be any rust in there. This pump was from the first 350 I had in the Jeep


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It’s a brand new engine. Better not be any rust in there. This pump was from the first 350 I had in the Jeep


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Ahh ok. Guess it’s been a while since I checked in on here.


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Discussion Starter · #3,610 ·
Kinda went down a rabbit hole with electric fans last night and CFM ratings.

From some of my anecdotal reading a good v8 needs 3000cfm airflow or more. While I’m using a Taurus fan that’s said to be rated 4000-5000cfm, I’m running a Dorman replacement fan I bought new, and the factory rating on that fan from Dorman is only 2800cfm. My fan pulls stupid hard so I’m curious what my actual CFM rating is. Im curious if it’s worthwhile to buy a cfm measuring tool. They’re like 30-50 bucks on Amazon


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Discussion Starter · #3,612 ·
I had Ashland compare his oem Volvo fan to my Taurus replacement fan and he said they’re about the same, so maybe I’ll get the CFM meter just for sh¡tz and giggles just to see for sure.

In progress news, the blank corners are starting to take shape. Cut for about a 41-42” radius






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Discussion Starter · #3,616 ·
Looks less comp cutish.... I like

probably wrenchin instead of wheelin
Thanks! I don’t care for the comp cut very much. I comp cut the actual body just to shake it down in the previous pics, but I had the blank corners sitting there waiting.


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Discussion Starter · #3,619 ·
Maybe bend a 3/8 return/hem into the perimeter. If something unusual happens at least it won’t slice into a tire?
The armor is thick enough it really doesn’t cut your tire if you flap disc the edge, but that would be interesting to do that fender lip on armor.

I don’t think I’ve seen it done outside of bodywork but would clean up the underside oem style if not anything


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