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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I picked up some extra axles this weekend. My originals have the dreaded 2:73 in them and with the larger tires just eat my t-5 alive. I was originally going to swap in 4:10 but with the need to move up the carrier and the gears, it just did not seem financially responsible. The replacement axles have 3:54's. So much closer to where I need and cheaper to eventually swap in the 4:10's due to the carrier.

My original axles are in amazing shape cosmetically. We do not salt the road in oregon and they still have the factory black coating with no surface rust or damage. I am currently (the last 7 years haha) restoring the jeep back to near original specs. So I want these to look like they are nearly new. The replacement axles are in good shape but the surface of them needs to be cleaned, prepped and painted. I will also be powder coating a bunch of the removables.

Now here is my line of questioning:

What is the most durable and close to original coating for this? Por15?

If I use Por15 (paint over Rust), I still want to clean up the axle tubes (grinding cleaning etc). If I wire brush it down to the metal, then all the rust will be gone so will POR15 still work (i have the pod15 metal prep)?

Open to alternative ideas so bring them to the discussion.

* Side note: I have done the tired flip on my originals, I will need to do that on these. So who has the loner reemer?

** Side note 2: I have 3rd set of axles (completely disassembled) that I will sell to anyone in the PNW who needs them. They come with most parts, but rusty. Good for a complete rebuild. $250 or best offer or trade me something I need for my restoration.




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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Siphon feed sandblasters are inexpensive, do a better job and create longer lasting results than a wire brush. Skip the POR products. Do it right. Get rid of all rust and use quality products to coat it. Rust left below a surface will always oxidize and pop out later.... It is how bondo got a bad reputation.
Blasting is cool but I don't have the ability to do something this large. those little hand blasters do not work and I need a much bigger compressor to get the pressure pot later to work. Not in the cards right now.

well, the manufacturer recommends only removing scale/loose rust prior to por15 treatment; they do not recommend removing all the non-loose rust. that "flash" rust/type is good; it's what the por15 bonds to and converts. i believe that's one of the issues folks have when applying it, and getting poor results - it works better on lightly rusted metal. it isn't intended to be applied to smooth, polished clean steel.
That is what the metal preps is for. It etches and brings back the flash rust. no amount of power washing will get rid of some of the 30 year caked dirt and goo. Going to have to wire brush to get those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Speaking of doing it right. Carriers aren't expensive though the gears can be. Sell your extra axles and gear right the first time. You didn't say what your tire size is but unless its 235/75 those 3.55s are a waste of money to install
Are we reading the same post? I am not installing anything but the complete axles with 3.54s at this time. I will be moving up to 4:10's eventually. I have 2:73's now. Any step closer is better and an axle swap is a simple job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
you'll spend no money on brakes, fluids,steering,sanding,painting,etc?time invested? I'm well aware of your plan. You asked for alternative solutions. If you aren't doing it right the first time its usually a waste of time

What is your tire size?
The ask was alternative paint beautification/durability ideas to por15. Not how to sell axles and start again. haha. I know where I need to be with gearing and how to achieve my desired hardware results.

My rollers are 35 but will go down to 33 once it is time (sooner then later). I have a t-5 and 5th is unusable with that tire size & 2:73 (hell 33's are barely passable as well with that set up). The gear ratio chart puts me at 4:10 for the sweet spot of 33's (no wheeling, just a cool near factory refresh cruising CJ).

I got them for cheap so it is was an simple buy. It is much easier to work on a spare set of axels then it is to work on ones that are attached to the jeep. Unfortunately I no longer have a large garage I can spread a project out in and leave for longer times. I have to be more judicious about starting and finishing each part I take off so I can open up the room for the next phase. Once finished with the painting and I can drop them to the gear installer without the need for my jeep to be functional. Get them back and swap. I have all fall and winter to get this done now since summer is coming to an end.
 
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