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1982 CJ5/304/T176/Dana300 Learning the rest - 2005 TJ X4.0 4"Currie Springs Savvy DA CAs - 2008 JK
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I'm about to start this same process. Getting wide tracks this weekend. I'm going to wire wheel everything I can get to on them, and get it clean. Then I'm going to do the POR15 process. Once done with that, use Krylon over the top. Do all the prep, paining sucks, it's literally 90% prep that makes paint good. POR15 needs all of the steps, metal etch etc. It looks like it needs to be painted over, and you can rattle can touch ups regulary with the Krylon.

 
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1982 CJ5/304/T176/Dana300 Learning the rest - 2005 TJ X4.0 4"Currie Springs Savvy DA CAs - 2008 JK
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29 Posts
well, the manufacturer recommends only removing scale/loose rust prior to por15 treatment; they do not recommend removing all the non-loose rust. that "flash" rust/type is good; it's what the por15 bonds to and converts. i believe that's one of the issues folks have when applying it, and getting poor results - it works better on lightly rusted metal. it isn't intended to be applied to smooth, polished clean steel.
I hear you, but this is from the POR15 web site. I agree that it is meant to be on Rust, but it with correct prep is very good on prepped metal. Glutton for punishment I must be, or like you’re suggesting, I’m considering using the silver with Metal as it will fill in the metal on the rust, and still hit it with black Krylon Frame which is very good stuff and UV protectant.

POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation.
 
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