[weapon]

So I picked up some extra axles this weekend. My originals have the dreaded 2:73 in them and with the larger tires just eat my t-5 alive. I was originally going to swap in 4:10 but with the need to move up the carrier and the gears, it just did not seem financially responsible. The replacement axles have 3:54's. So much closer to where I need and cheaper to eventually swap in the 4:10's due to the carrier.

My original axles are in amazing shape cosmetically. We do not salt the road in oregon and they still have the factory black coating with no surface rust or damage. I am currently (the last 7 years haha) restoring the jeep back to near original specs. So I want these to look like they are nearly new. The replacement axles are in good shape but the surface of them needs to be cleaned, prepped and painted. I will also be powder coating a bunch of the removables.

Now here is my line of questioning:

What is the most durable and close to original coating for this? Por15?

If I use Por15 (paint over Rust), I still want to clean up the axle tubes (grinding cleaning etc). If I wire brush it down to the metal, then all the rust will be gone so will POR15 still work (i have the pod15 metal prep)?

Open to alternative ideas so bring them to the discussion.

* Side note: I have done the tired flip on my originals, I will need to do that on these. So who has the loner reemer?

** Side note 2: I have 3rd set of axles (completely disassembled) that I will sell to anyone in the PNW who needs them. They come with most parts, but rusty. Good for a complete rebuild. $250 or best offer or trade me something I need for my restoration.

 

[Mister4x4]

When I swapped to my WideTracs, I just cleaned 'em up and used a couple cans of Black Engine Enamel on each one. When I restored my '71 Mach 1, I used Rust Bullet Black Shell for just about everything under the hood and underside. Like POR-15, it's an epoxy-based primer, and very durable.

 

[Fourtrail]

Sell all three sets and put a set of beautiful Dana 60's underneath?

 

[hanlondave95]

I used Rustoleum rust reformer on my TJ. Was just a powder coat of rust on it and I just wire brushed anywhere I could and sprayed it on. I like the flat look, very similar to the original paint on the axles and frame.
We’ll see after the winter how it holds up.

 

[weapon]

Sell all three sets and put a set of beautiful Dana 60's underneath?

Now now. No need for that kind of escalation. haha

 

[MrCamo]

Por15 is not UV stable. I applied mine to the interior. It changed color and faded from grey to greenish grey. I like it but I will paint over the POR15 with something UV Stable next time I use it. Also brake fluid absolutely eats it alive instantly. It does not even try to hold up.

 

[wallytoo]

i painted my replacement oem frame with por15 after cleaning it. no scale to remove, and didn't wire wheel it, just left the minor flash rust there. once the two coats of por15 were dry, i top-coated with two layers of a marine enamel, i believe it was pratt & lambert - unfortunately gloss white, but i had plenty on hand. if you use por15, even for the underside/axles, i'd topcoat it with a minimum of one layer of paint.

my jeep will not see any more salt while i own it, but i will drive it in wet weather. i guess i'll see how the por15 holds up over time.

 

[Mister4x4]

OK, so apparently Rust Bullet isn't quite as delicate as POR-15.

 

[cpwolf]

I'm about to start this same process. Getting wide tracks this weekend. I'm going to wire wheel everything I can get to on them, and get it clean. Then I'm going to do the POR15 process. Once done with that, use Krylon over the top. Do all the prep, paining sucks, it's literally 90% prep that makes paint good. POR15 needs all of the steps, metal etch etc. It looks like it needs to be painted over, and you can rattle can touch ups regulary with the Krylon.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/rust-tough/paint---body/paint/paint---rust-resistant/c2919dabdd01/krylon-rust-tough-12-ounce-semi-flat-black-spray-paint/kry3/rta9203/v/a/2192/automotive-suv-1978-jeep-cj5

 

[keith460]

So I picked up some extra axles this weekend.

Now here is my line of questioning:

What is the most durable and close to original coating for this?

Powder Coat in Black Jack color.

I powder coated my axles over 15 years ago and they still look new. I didn't use Black Jack but rather Semi-gloss Black for the color. But Black jack is as close to original in color you will find. Sort of a Matt Black finish.

 

[keith460]

Black Jack as original OEM color:

 

[wallytoo]

Then I'm going to do the POR15 process. POR15 needs all of the steps, metal etch etc.

well, the manufacturer recommends only removing scale/loose rust prior to por15 treatment; they do not recommend removing all the non-loose rust. that "flash" rust/type is good; it's what the por15 bonds to and converts. i believe that's one of the issues folks have when applying it, and getting poor results - it works better on lightly rusted metal. it isn't intended to be applied to smooth, polished clean steel.

 

[Boojo35]

Siphon feed sandblasters are inexpensive, do a better job and create longer lasting results than a wire brush. Skip the POR products. Do it right. Get rid of all rust and use quality products to coat it. Rust left below a surface will always oxidize and pop out later.... It is how bondo got a bad reputation.

 

[weapon]

Black Jack as original OEM color:
View attachment 4154130 View attachment 4154132
View attachment 4154133
View attachment 4154134

I will not be powder coating the axle tube. just the parts that I can take off without a full disassembly. What would be a a close paint to the black jack powder coat?

 

[weapon]

Siphon feed sandblasters are inexpensive, do a better job and create longer lasting results than a wire brush. Skip the POR products. Do it right. Get rid of all rust and use quality products to coat it. Rust left below a surface will always oxidize and pop out later.... It is how bondo got a bad reputation.

Blasting is cool but I don't have the ability to do something this large. those little hand blasters do not work and I need a much bigger compressor to get the pressure pot later to work. Not in the cards right now.

well, the manufacturer recommends only removing scale/loose rust prior to por15 treatment; they do not recommend removing all the non-loose rust. that "flash" rust/type is good; it's what the por15 bonds to and converts. i believe that's one of the issues folks have when applying it, and getting poor results - it works better on lightly rusted metal. it isn't intended to be applied to smooth, polished clean steel.

That is what the metal preps is for. It etches and brings back the flash rust. no amount of power washing will get rid of some of the 30 year caked dirt and goo. Going to have to wire brush to get those.

 

[cpwolf]

well, the manufacturer recommends only removing scale/loose rust prior to por15 treatment; they do not recommend removing all the non-loose rust. that "flash" rust/type is good; it's what the por15 bonds to and converts. i believe that's one of the issues folks have when applying it, and getting poor results - it works better on lightly rusted metal. it isn't intended to be applied to smooth, polished clean steel.

I hear you, but this is from the POR15 web site. I agree that it is meant to be on Rust, but it with correct prep is very good on prepped metal. Glutton for punishment I must be, or like you’re suggesting, I’m considering using the silver with Metal as it will fill in the metal on the rust, and still hit it with black Krylon Frame which is very good stuff and UV protectant.

POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation.

 

[lwbfl]

Axles, like many other things in life, can only be seen if you pull them out in front of people. They are hidden inside the axle tube, no need to go to any trouble on them for aesthetics😆.

 

[Fourtrail]

Axles, like many other things in life, can only be seen if you pull them out in front of people. They are hidden inside the axle tube, no need to go to any trouble on them for aesthetics😆.

Be sure when you do have them out that you paint them with a straight edge so eventually you have a barber pole shaft to show off your massive amounts of torque.

 

[222Doc]

personally never like por 15. tends to mean por workman ship cover it up for now. But rather hard to rust through axle housings never painted. I used the old sand blaster way, even cheap siphon gun would do it faster then a wire wheel and be 100x cleaner to metal. Like frosty clean. Love they way that happens is seconds too. You will need an air supply for sure. shop size. dont breath that stuff as well. Oh and a N95 mask that say stops something you can not see. Will not stop glass dust enough. that you can see...........need a hood too and jacket. I think it maybe not legal is some areas to even do today? They have water sand now that is better. or other media is safer. just not as low cost as sand.

Bare frosted clean to the bone steel flash rust near instantly. So a spray on metal prep is mostly alcohol and acid. Stuff i used gave it like lightly blued look. Then paint it with a None sanding DTM paint. Then top coat. reason i would go with a non sanding DTP epoxy. as long as you hit with the top coat before cure you get a better bond. body work you would be sanding unless this metal is done like few can.

cant cover rust. it never sleeps.
If you ever have to weld on a jeep. working around that stuff or bed line makes it rather fun, not.

 

[Boojo35]

Blasting is cool but I don't have the ability to do something this large. those little hand blasters do not work and I need a much bigger compressor to get the pressure pot later to work. Not in the cards right now.

50 lb. Portable Abrasive Blaster Kit

Amazing deals on this Portable Abrasive Blaster Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

This is what I mean by a siphon feed blaster. I have a craftsman version. It works very well. Yes, it heats up an air compressor but take your time. It is way faster and more effective than any wire brush. Using a wire brush is a waste of time IMO. You either make the rust go away altogether or you have done a repair that is not as effective. You can use this in your driveway, backyard, anywhere.

cant cover rust. it never sleeps.

222Doc said this and he is 1000% correct. Rust that is covered up still has the ingredients to oxidize and spread. You cannot lock it down. You must get rid of it.