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Atlas92 Build Thread "99 WJ"

39671 Views 245 Replies 41 Participants Last post by  thatoneguyaz
I have been having a few people asking about my rig so I am going to start a build thread. I got my jeep in Feb of 2010 with about 140,000 miles. It has the 4.0L, np242, d30/35 and 3.73 gears.

The earliest pic I have of my jeep, stock suspension, 245s, 1.5" RC wheel spacers, and cladding painted black.

About a week into owning the jeep, I got a hole in one of my fuel lines up by the gas tank, so I decided to do a tank tuck while I had the tank out.

For about the next month after that, I started stocking up on lift parts. I think this cheepest way to get 6" of lift. I think I am right at $1000 in parts at this point in time.

RCX 4" lift
Rusty's 2"bb
IRO upper adj control arms
IRO fixed lower rear control arms

I put the lift on buy myself (took 10 hours) so I didnt really care to take and pics in the process of putting it on. It measures 6.5" actual lift I dont have a t/c drop and I dont have any vibes.

The only good pic I have with stock wheel and tires.

I got at set of half used Baja ATZs from a friend of mine for free. 35x13.50R20. I got a set of 20x8.5 gunner 5s from discount tire. So for under $700 total I have a good set of 35s mounted and balanced.

I was having a lot of bump steer so I got rid of my little RC adj track bar. I would not recommend it to anybody. I bought an IRO adj track bar form Bama_WJ for a good price and it solved my problems.

I cleaned my headlights with the 3M kit that goes in the drill. It did wonders for my lights.

I then tinted my turn signals and side markers. I also added some tow hooks and trimed my bumper

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Now onto my trie carrier that I have been getting questions about. I got some c-channel for free at school. I hope the pics can explain most of what I did. Here is what I had before I redid it.

and here are my plans

mount on the hitch, passenger side stops and the exhaust hanger

my mount on the drivers side goes all the way along the hitch b/c there are no gas fill hoses in the way. (you can see my 5125s in that one, they make short arms and 6" lift ride just like stock)

off of the jeep

There is a little of the pinch/weld seam that needs to be bent up to make everything higher.

I converted to a heim join style hinge that works great. It is much better than tabs with a bolt through it. (don't pay attention to my welds, it was my first time with a wire feed)

simple latch



Thats about all I have for right now untill I get my IRO budget rock sliders, and my multiple double cardan drive shaft (4 U joints) from Drivelines Plus in Evansville, IN.
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with stock tires and RC track bar I would get death wobble at 50mph when I hit a big bump. With the 35s and RC track bar, dw at 40mph and a big bump. With the IRO track bar no dw and just the slightest bump steer. Thanks
i think your front IRO lower CAs are the wrong way also i think you have bumpsteer because if you are sitting at 6.5 the tbar only goes to 6in of adjustment so you need to compensate for the .5in
My lower control arms are RC and I think they are the right way, I could be wrong but I dont have any problems. The RC tbar was too short, now I have an IRO adj tbar that is rated to 7"
Holy ugly welds on that tire carrier. I hope they're strong, wouldn't want to lose a 35 on the highway.
Ya I know, but they are strong. I do most of my welding with a stick welder, I just need to get adjusted to the wire feed.
I got my driveshaft today. It cost me $450 out the door for the shaft and the 2 yokes.

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I went and got a HiLift jack and mounted it on the roof rack crossbars. I used all stainless hardwear so I wouldnt have to ever worry about rust.

I took off my rear swaybar because all of my bushings are wore out and they were making all kinds of noise. Then I got board and decided to do a little flexing at my shop. The rear coil was fully extended and loose; I thought that was pretty cool with short arms.

The 35 stuffs pretty good in the rear with the bumper trimed
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I went wheeling in Lynnville, IN today. Nothing bent or broke so it was a pretty good day.

The trails are on an old strip mine and here is the old miner they used. The pics dont do the size of this thing justice.

My jeep will easily fit inside of it's bucket.

Rock sliders should be in tomorrow, they have been back ordered for a month.
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sliders came in today. pure beef, but pita to install by yourself.

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I went to Lynnville again today. It rained so the all terrains were limited. Still didn't stop me from tearing something up. First real trail damage. I guess I have a higher clearance tie rod now. lol

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After today a fender trim feels like it is in the near future. As soon as I can get the money, locked 44a, and 36" bias tsl's or 35" pit bull rockers on 15" v-5's
I went and got a new oem tie rod, threw on several coats of paint, and swapped everything over. I wish I could have gone with the IRO set up, but money is tight now since I just dropped a grand in tool for college.

problem solved
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When I make the bumper for it, there will be a winch on it.
great build! those tires fit good on there.
Thanks a lot
To get list:

4.88 gears
37" rocker radials or m-16s
15" steel wheels
IRO front long arms
Smittybuilt XRC 10 HD Winch
front bumper
lightforce 240s
diff protection
tc skid

Hopefully I can get everything over the next year and a half, so Ill be ready for GSW 2012.
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You may want to at least upgrade your axle shafts if you're going to run 37s with 30/44a, especially if you get lockers
I was thinking about that, but when I looked into u-shafts, they were around $800. I can get 8 sets of stock shafts for that price. Even if I break one on the trail, I have the stuff to change it in less than half an hour. I dont really see me going through that many shafts. I see where the locker could make big problems with big tires and little shafts. You may know more about this than me, are there any other shafts out there stronger than stock but cheeper than u-joint shafts?
What bumper you looking at?
Im an planning on making one
In my opinion it is better to beef it up and not worry about it, but if you want to build it on the cheap, that's your prerogative. Nothing kills a good trip quicker than having to swap axle shafts on trail...
I see what you mean. Ill try to work some in with everything else, but if I dont then its good that I dont have a heavy right foot.
Look at getting some IRO Almost Alloys at the very least.
The front shafts have cv's, not u-joints, so it wouldn't work
No, the wj's never had stock u-joint shafts
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