Atlas92 Build Thread "99 WJ"

39649 Views 245 Replies 41 Participants Last post by thatoneguyaz, Nov 16, 2014

Atlas92

Discussion Starter · Jun 29, 2010

16

I have been having a few people asking about my rig so I am going to start a build thread. I got my jeep in Feb of 2010 with about 140,000 miles. It has the 4.0L, np242, d30/35 and 3.73 gears.

The earliest pic I have of my jeep, stock suspension, 245s, 1.5" RC wheel spacers, and cladding painted black.

About a week into owning the jeep, I got a hole in one of my fuel lines up by the gas tank, so I decided to do a tank tuck while I had the tank out.

For about the next month after that, I started stocking up on lift parts. I think this cheepest way to get 6" of lift. I think I am right at $1000 in parts at this point in time.

RCX 4" lift
Rusty's 2"bb
IRO upper adj control arms
IRO fixed lower rear control arms
IRO HD Dual SS

I put the lift on buy myself (took 10 hours) so I didnt really care to take and pics in the process of putting it on. It measures 6.5" actual lift I dont have a t/c drop and I dont have any vibes.

The only good pic I have with stock wheel and tires.

I got at set of half used Baja ATZs from a friend of mine for free. 35x13.50R20. I got a set of 20x8.5 gunner 5s from discount tire. So for under $700 total I have a good set of 35s mounted and balanced.

I was having a lot of bump steer so I got rid of my little RC adj track bar. I would not recommend it to anybody. I bought an IRO adj track bar form Bama_WJ for a good price and it solved my problems.

I cleaned my headlights with the 3M kit that goes in the drill. It did wonders for my lights.

I then tinted my turn signals and side markers. I also added some tow hooks and trimed my bumper

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1 - 20 of 246 Posts

mtnmarc

· #74 · Nov 8, 2010

Atlas92 said:
the more I think about it the more I want to swap axles, but I want to keep the speedometer (Im not worried about the ABS). Ive heard of a speedo swap, but I dont really know that is. Can anybody tell me what that is? Also I found a 14 bolt and a dana 60 for the rear that I may be able to get for next to nothing. They are both 65" wide. Which one would you choose?

If the !4 bolt is a full floater, I'd choose that for sure. That's what I have waiting to go under my wj. And if you have the np242, you can get a sye with a speed output to read your speedo. The 14 bolt has pinion support which only the custom atomic axles have. So that makes them mire desirable than a 60. Thicker axle tubes and I think 35 spline shafts stock as well. You might want to shave the center section. Plus 14 bolts are a dime a dozen so if you ever break a shaft or anything, parts are cheap.

mtnmarc

· #84 · Nov 15, 2010

nice plan. thats what im doing with a 44 front and 14 bolt full floating rear. have you looked into heims? the dana 44 with 39.5s is gunna be pushing it, unless you plan on chromolly shafts. 78-79 ford front ends are the best years for the dana 44s. pirate has a ton of good info :thumbsup:

mtnmarc

· #86 · Nov 17, 2010

an f-350 should have a 60 front and 70 rear.

mtnmarc

· #101 · Jan 9, 2011

looking good with the axle choice. how much lift are you going to run with the 36s?

mtnmarc

· #117 · May 28, 2011

so you are gunna have extended radius arms up front, iro a arm rear and custom rear lowers?

mtnmarc

· #124 · May 29, 2011

Atlas92 said:
I just have drums in the back with bronco repalcement ss lines that will go into the jeep T at the axle.

why are you keeping the drums in the rear? our master cylinder is made for 4 wheel disk, so i think you would utilize that and swap disk in the rear.

mtnmarc

· #128 · May 29, 2011

might as well just swap it to disk while its out and you dont have to worry about getting your jeep back on its own weight again.

mtnmarc

· #129 · May 29, 2011

Atlas92 said:
I have a question... If and can I run all of the wheel speed sensors off of the transfer case would have issues there with the brakes and abs

there is a write up on mallcrawlin that uses the speed reading off the t case that splices into the ecu to get speed. but since you wont have the tone rings at the axles, you wont have abs.

mtnmarc

· #131 · May 29, 2011

Atlas92 said:
I know I will lose abs I was wanting to make sure it didnt throw any codes and throw things off even more.

ive heard it wont throw codes from guys on mallcrawlin.

mtnmarc

· #137 · Jul 20, 2011

did you just pull your speed sensors for now until you swap in your axles?

mtnmarc

· #141 · Jul 21, 2011

Are you still keeping the drums as planned?

mtnmarc

· #150 · Aug 1, 2011

Dang, very nice my friend. Details! Ok....

So what's the length of all your arms?
And those are 36s correct?
Flex pictures!
Did you push the axles back or forward any? The front looks forward a couple inches.

mtnmarc

· #161 · Aug 12, 2011

That front coil seems really bowed.

mtnmarc

· #166 · Aug 15, 2011

That looks clean man. I'm kinda thinking about cutting up the rockers. How long did it take you to do one side?

mtnmarc

· #171 · Sep 22, 2011

any clearance issues with the 37s at that height?

the bumper looks awesome. radiator skid/protection soon?

mtnmarc

· #178 · Sep 23, 2011

do you have a front driveshaft yet?

waiting on flex pictures!!

mtnmarc

· #185 · Sep 25, 2011

the rear looks awesome. do i see rubbage on bumper in the first picture?

mtnmarc

· #189 · Sep 25, 2011

Nicee. Well I'm glad to see it works great.

Another question, steering with the 37s and no hydro assist. Is it decent, like steering wheel effort?

mtnmarc

· #191 · Oct 2, 2011

The little things kill you. Ha.

Can I see some pictures of your front inner fender wells near the firewall? My 35s are rubbing and Idk if I should cut or beat in with a hammer. I don't really have the option to push my axle forward cuz I only have adjustable lowers. I'd destroy my pinion angle if I pushed it forward too much.

mtnmarc

· #193 · Oct 5, 2011

im gunna have to try that. or maybe lengthen my control arms a little.

1 - 20 of 246 Posts

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