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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am creating this thread to steer folks in the right direction, If you have a stock CJ and just want to do a semi cheap conversion, the maxima or nissan 300x swap may be just what you are looking for.
I did the swap with the nissan calipers with (e-brake) and the 2 door rotors from a Geo tracker. To say I was HUGELY let down, would be the understatement of the year!! Simply put, it didn't work. It did squeak loudly, turn the solid caliper a beautiful shade of blue and warped the heck out of one!

Follow the thread here if you are interested.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/m...t-needed-1208307/?highlight=amc+20+conversion

Now, for those of you running a larger tire and/ or lower tcase gears, here is the SOLUTION..

I just finished up and not only will it hold the rears in 4low (I have a 4:1 kit in my Dana 300) but you can get it to lock up under a load!!

The calipers are GM, I bought mine from Autozone for a 73 Monte Carlo

there are multiple rotors that fit 5 on 5 1/2, you can get some from an 80's bronco that are close, or possibly use the 4 door tracker rotors, but I didn't measure them out, so I am not endorsing that. I started to build the brackets myself, the ones I got from BESERK are awesome, but like I said before, the pads and calipers are just not powerful enough to stop the 35's.

I will post all the photos below, and you can see the size difference in everything.

On my search, I ran across TSM disk brakes, they sell the brackets that bolt directly to the axle flange and accept the GM rotors, They also sell the 11 9/16 rotor that fits our CJ's. I don't want to advertise against policy here, however for those of you looking to do this swap, it is WELL worth your time to google them up!!!

OK, since I have to resize every photo, I will just put them below, if you have any questions, feel free to hit me, I will answer what I can!!

..ninja edit..
As you can see, I had to get a couple of 45 degree brake fittings to accept the banjo style bolt. Also the caliper brackets come with a welded on tube where they mate up with the flange, I was instructed to either shim these or grind if they were off, just as an added bonus, they fit perfectly with no modification.

They also enclosed shims to take the place of your backing plate, since I had already cut mine, I just used them, however if you want to save a huge headache of cutting your backing plates, these shims fit great and you can ebay your old backing plates for a small fortune!!

Enjoy

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot to talk about the e-brake.. I got the valve from ricks performance, it simply ties in between the master cylinder outlet and the rear disks.. Press the brake and turn the valve!! We just finished a YJ and it works flawlessly, so when I get mine plumbed in, I will add photos as well!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will try to put them in a list and post it up in a bit, however it is raining straight down and since the CJ is in perfect shape, the boy and I are headed out to play in the mud and prolly break something else!!!!!


Tom
 

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In many states a line lock or micro lock is not street legal for an emergency/parking brake system. So check your states laws. Here in California and Neveda it must be a mechanical system completely independent of the hydraulic system.
 

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8.8 disc brakes

I used Ford 8.8 rear Disc brakes on a 86 CJ7 with a factory Dana 44
1 I had to enlongagate the side to side holes.
2 I had a company redrill the holes to 5 on 5 1/2
3 I ran a 1/4" spacer on the inside of the rotor.
4 a TJ Rubicon combo valve
5 saddle clamps on the Ebrake cables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bumpo to reference a picture....
 

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I will try to put them in a list and post it up in a bit, however it is raining straight down and since the CJ is in perfect shape, the boy and I are headed out to play in the mud and prolly break something else!!!!!

Tom
What happened to this thread? Was there a list of parts somewhere and I just missed it? Was the build a success or fail?

:confused:

Last word for OP was that they were going to go drive in the rain/mud... hope the brakes didn't cause an accident.
 

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In many states a line lock or micro lock is not street legal for an emergency/parking brake system. So check your states laws. Here in California and Neveda it must be a mechanical system completely independent of the hydraulic system.
Same for up here in Canada.

The OP also states he can lock up the rear brakes under load also! Yikes, can we say how to do 360's in one easy lesson!!!

There is supposed to be a combination valve in Jeeps and most other vehicles that prevents this from happening.. It is extremely dangerous to have the rear wheels lock up on you at speed.

If in part time 4x4 with the front and rears locked together, you just go out sideways into the ditch which is why the CJ owners manual says to stay off the brakes when in 4x4, to use the gears to slow down and just brake at the end.

If in 2 wheel drive and you lock the rears up, you do 360° spinouts faster than you can blink.

Normal panic braking locks the fronts and loads the rears. The rears keep turning until you are almost all the way stopped.
 

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What happened to this thread? Was there a list of parts somewhere and I just missed it? Was the build a success or fail?

:confused:
I'm curious if this mod worked, as well. I don't think I've read a disc brake conversion thread that was a complete success, yet. :confused:

Matt
 

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Personally, I just have disc/drum brakes, with a YJ power brake booster/MC, and my brakes couldn't be better.
 

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I have the 300zx calipers, bsrk bracket and geo rotors. On 35's. Fronts lock, rears can off ground. I also use mustang hydroboost as it s better than the manual brakes i had. In 4:1, reversing down drive sloped, fronts lock, rears can't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am creating this thread to steer folks in the right direction, If you have a stock CJ and just want to do a semi cheap conversion, the maxima or nissan 300x swap may be just what you are looking for.
I did the swap with the nissan calipers with (e-brake) and the 2 door rotors from a Geo tracker. To say I was HUGELY let down, would be the understatement of the year!! Simply put, it didn't work. It did squeak loudly, turn the solid caliper a beautiful shade of blue and warped the heck out of one!

Follow the thread here if you are interested.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/m...t-needed-1208307/?highlight=amc+20+conversion

Now, for those of you running a larger tire and/ or lower tcase gears, here is the SOLUTION..

I just finished up and not only will it hold the rears in 4low (I have a 4:1 kit in my Dana 300) but you can get it to lock up under a load!!
I'm curious if this mod worked, as well. I don't think I've read a disc brake conversion thread that was a complete success, yet. :confused:

Matt
I put this thread together after I finished the conversion. To reiterate, I am extremely happy with it. I linked the 300ZX swap thread because it was terribly unsuccessful for me.

The list of parts was minimal, as I got almost everything from TSMMFG.com.

I have around 1K miles since I finished it (pretty rough miles) and I am completely happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good to know, Truck. Thanks!

And my apologies for not reading your original post more carefully.

The e-brake conundrum is still a concern for me, and will probably be the reason I stick with drums in the rear.

Matt
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...per-Rear/_/N-8knrp?itemIdentifier=692610_0_0_

I was looking into this caliper for the rear, which includes a mechanical link for the ebrake. I never went any further with it though. If I do move to a state that requires it, I am sure I will modify something along this route. We are petty lucky in NM.. They are lax as heck about regs. :thumbsup:
 
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