Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Alternator bracket alignment

569 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  John Strenk






I am installing a junkyard 258 engine in my 84 CJ5. Transferring the alternator bracket over to the new engine the alignment of the alternator bracket is way off on the bolt on the head. I can modify the bracket easy enough but I want to make sure the belt will line up properly. Also the new head appears considerably shorter than the one removed. Any advise?
See less See more
6
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Looks to me like the engine that you are putting in is the older model pre 1980. So the head casting is going to be different.
I don’t know how t add to a thread, I slotted the bracket. Does anyone see a big

problem with this?
See less See more
That would be up to your preference. For some reason the view from your camera or do your pulleys line up?
I had an extra engine with the exact same problem.
I tried mocking up an AC bracket when I discovered the holes didn't line up

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Gas Automotive wheel system
\



This looked like a engine from some other vehicle as the temp sensor was on the front of the head instead on the top back of the head.



It was off this much:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system


I never did figure out if the head was shorter or the block was shorter.
Came to find out that some of the 232cuin engine was a shorter (height) block compared to the 258.

According to the number stamped on the side, it was either a 1972 258cuin or a 1963 232cuin.
But the 232 didn't come out until 1964 and I'm not sure if the 199cuin had the same bellhousing mount as the 258.
But obviously the block was shorter.
This would explain the difference in mounting holes location on the head.





I ended up stealing the oil pan and putting it on my current engine and scrapping the rest of it.
See less See more
5
I don’t know how t add to a thread, I slotted the bracket. Does anyone see a big
Vibration will eventually break it. My suggestion is to weld a small extension, redrill, and then fill up the excess hole.
I'll throw in another wrinkle. Our 74 originally had a 232 with the temperature sender port in the front too. A PO had converted the alternator from the Motorola type with external regulator to a GM type alternator. PO put it on the driver's side using what I suspect was the smog/air pump brackets. When I replaced the 232 with a crate 258 whose year is unknown, but pre-1980. I used the same brackets. To get the alternator belt tight I had to cock the alternator on the right bracket inward because the alternator on the left bracket was to the outer extreme.

Right bracket--that's the speedometer cable behind it. It bolts to the block.



Left bracket



Within a few days the adjustment ear on the alternator case broke off. No sweat it was overcharging anyway. I put a larger pully to increase the adjustment arc. I had the smallest belt that will work on the alternator.
See less See more
2
I had an extra engine with the exact same problem.
I tried mocking up an AC bracket when I discovered the holes didn't line up

View attachment 4186430 \

View attachment 4186434

This looked like a engine from some other vehicle as the temp sensor was on the front of the head instead on the top back of the head.



It was off this much:
View attachment 4186431

I never did figure out if the head was shorter or the block was shorter.
Came to find out that some of the 232cuin engine was a shorter (height) block compared to the 258.

According to the number stamped on the side, it was either a 1972 258cuin or a 1963 232cuin.
But the 232 didn't come out until 1964 and I'm not sure if the 199cuin had the same bellhousing mount as the 258.
But obviously the block was shorter.
This would explain the difference in mounting holes location on the head.

View attachment 4186432

View attachment 4186433

I ended up stealing the oil pan and putting it on my current engine and scrapping the rest of it.
What is the significance of the number cast into the block? Mine has a 3218618 cast in the block and a 702A11 stamped into it. If this is a 231 I don’t think I want to install it.
Interesting it has the same casting number as the one I had and didn't fit.

See if you can find this number on the driver side. This tells you the year the engine was made


This along with the other number will help decoding your engine.

So far it could be a 1977 or 1987 258cuin built on February 11th.
or a 1967 199cuin
See less See more
Interesting it has the same casting number as the one I had and didn't fit.

See if you can find this number on the driver side. This tells you the year the engine was made


This along with the other number will help decoding your engine.

So far it could be a 1977 or 1987 258cuin built on February 11th.
or a 1967 199cuin
I’ll look, thanks
Interesting it has the same casting number as the one I had and didn't fit.

See if you can find this number on the driver side. This tells you the year the engine was made


This along with the other number will help decoding your engine.

So far it could be a 1977 or 1987 258cuin built on February 11th.
or a 1967 199cuin

This block has no date cast in it, is that strange?
See less See more
Those ribs on the side look different also.

that 4 H might be the date code for that block the year it was made.
I'd be the 4 means 1974

Mine was 2 H. Probably built in 1972
They could of changed it to a different style later on.

Ah ha ! found it !
1974-1972 258 CUIN 3.75" Bore, W/O rocker shaft, Bell housing dowel pins hole are 15-1/2" between Centers.
There were 6 different castings in those years.

As opposed to 14-1/2" dowel pins on 70-72 258 engines.


Also, the power steering might be a problem. Your missing a couple of mounts.


IIRC, the power steering was mounted on the passenger side of the engine.


so if you are planning to have power steering you might need to look into

Just found out the alternator mounts on the driver side of the engine in 1974.
See less See more
3
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Those ribs on the side look different also.

that 4 H might be the date code for that block the year it was made.
I'd be the 4 means 1974

Mine was 2 H. Probably built in 1972
They could of changed it to a different style later on.

Ah ha ! found it !
1974-1972 258 CUIN 3.75" Bore, W/O rocker shaft, Bell housing dowel pins hole are 15-1/2" between Centers.
There were 6 different castings in those years.

As opposed to 14-1/2" dowel pins on 70-72 258 engines.


Also, the power steering might be a problem. Your missing a couple of mounts.
View attachment 4188360

IIRC, the power steering was mounted on the passenger side of the engine.
View attachment 4188361

so if you are planning to have power steering you might need to look into

Just found out the alternator mounts on the driver side of the engine in 1974.
View attachment 4188362
You're right about the power steering mounts! I didn't get that far yet. This engine will not work for me. You just saved me a bunch of time and effort, thanks! I would have been very angry when I went to bolt that engine to the bell housing. I'm interested how you looked that stuff up.
You're right about the power steering mounts! I didn't get that far yet. This engine will not work for me. You just saved me a bunch of time and effort, thanks! I would have been very angry when I went to bolt that engine to the bell housing. I'm interested how you looked that stuff up.
I don't know what the current spacing is on a later model CJ but since they called it out in the article, I figured it was something you should check on before installing the engine.

For searching I used a bunch of key words in google until some of them stuck
Like
"AMC Engine Codes"
"Jeep Engine Codes"
AMC 258 block build date"
"258 build dates"

Once I found out what year, it went a little easier.
Here is a screen grab of some history of some of the searches:

See less See more
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top