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I have (or will have) 4 sets of aux lighting that I want to control and I'm tired of having stickon switches on the dash. I didn't want to mess with OEM switches as they are pricier and I didn't want to search junkyards for those.

Here is what I have got...


- Bezel from a TJ - 7.00 or so at a junkyard

- 4 ARB switches (Carling manufacturer PN V1D1J66B -7.30 each from

- 4 ARB actuator (covers) with blue lenses PN VVAYC00-000 - 1.30 each from


- Phillips screwdriver

- Wire stripper

- Wire butt splices

- Wire spade connectors

- Wire cutters

- 18 or 16 ga wire

Wood Wood stain Flooring Hardwood Rectangle

Cigarette hole is filled with Cobra 75WxST mounting grommet so I can run the CB's connect to this and have it look clean (more in a bit).

Rectangle Gadget Gas Font Wood

Installed with all switches (except one)

Plant Car Vehicle Steering part Vehicle audio

Installed and working

Automotive lighting Window Entertainment Gadget Door

The 4 and 5 switches are powered for dash illumination, but no lights are connected yet. Switch 1 and 2 are my lockers. Switch 3 is my front fogs and Switch 6 is my rear fogs (which are also wired to go on with my reverse gear).

Light Vehicle Motor vehicle Kitchen appliance Automotive lighting

As for wiring, I used this image as my base.

Product Rectangle Slope Font Parallel

For IPF wired lights, the black is ground (lead #8), the red is power from the fuse block (Lead #2) and white is for the relay/solenoid (whatever your powering) (Lead #3). Other switches are probably the same.

That leaves leads 6 and 7. Lead #7 is the ground for the dash illumination and Lead #6 is the lead for dash power. Finding a power source for this, I had a couple of choices. I could use one of the orange wires from the HVAC or the stereo dimmer function, but I didn't want to splice into the HVAC and I didn't want to run a longer wire from the stereo harness to the switches. I had a wiring harness by my ARB's that was factory, but never used. I'm suspecting either rear wiper or defrost (neither of which my soft top TJ has - and won't have). I snipped the orange wire coming to this useless harness (to me) and spliced it into a setup that had 4 wires, one for each switch to be wired. I used 18 gauge wire and used insulated spade connectors to wire the #6 lead on all switches.

Gadget Electrical wiring Input device Audio equipment Cable

Now to get these wires into where the ashtray was, I drilled a 3/4" hole in the dash cover directly below the HVAC (with HVAC removed of course) and ran the wires through that hole. No problems. I have another hole for the CB wire because I relocated the CB from under the Tuffy to behind the dash.

I added the CB wiring so I can plug in my 75WxST in to this location. However, there is NO space behind the dash in that area for me. I have XM and iPod interfaces, GPS hardwiring, and vents back there. Add to that the wire from the 75's little box is only about 5" and I was VERY limited in where I could put it and get the cable to the bezel.

Putting pressure on it to tighten the lock ring the bezel will pop in and look stupid, so I'm using some PVC connector (the 1 3/4" long ones that connect 2 PVC pipes) as a channel to run the CB wire behind the bezel. This will do 2 things. It will keep the CB wire straight instead of the angle you see below. AND it will provide a backing to the bezel to give it some rigidity. This will be installed tonight or tomorrow.

I'll add more pics at that point.

The pics above aren't the best and makes the install look messy. Cutting IS messy and I haven't cleaned up all the dust or finished off the edges. I wanted to make sure everything fit and worked before doing final work.

Cable Electronic component Electrical wiring Gas Electronic engineering
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