Sure sounds like clogged orifice tube to me. The orifice tube and the compressor are the gatekeepers between the high and low sides. It's taking 10-15 seconds for a 100 psi pressure differential to force a tiny amount of refrigerant through the orifice and bring the low side up enough to trigger the compressor. Once the compressor kicks on it sucks the low side down in half a second. On my 93 the compressor stays on pretty much constantly in the summer. Which is how it should be. Compressor short cycling is hard on the clutch.
FWIW any time you replace a compressor for mechanical damage (siezed) you pretty much have to replace the orifice tube, the accumulator (drier), and flush the lines. When I sold parts you'd see a lot of people buy just the compressor and then be back in 3 months with a dead compressor again, killed by trash the first one left in the system. Most compressor companies won't warranty a compressor unless you can prove you bought a new orifice tube or expansion valve, drier/accumulator, and a can of flush.
FWIW any time you replace a compressor for mechanical damage (siezed) you pretty much have to replace the orifice tube, the accumulator (drier), and flush the lines. When I sold parts you'd see a lot of people buy just the compressor and then be back in 3 months with a dead compressor again, killed by trash the first one left in the system. Most compressor companies won't warranty a compressor unless you can prove you bought a new orifice tube or expansion valve, drier/accumulator, and a can of flush.