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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
good morning All
Having an issue with over heating. It started when i tried to convert to electric fan. I'll post some pictures later today but in the meantime its overheating. Im in the process of flushing the system so there's no T stat. at the start of the conversion i installed new waterpump, new t stat, coolant champion 3 row aluminum radiator, Derale adjustable fan controller and all new sensors. Wiring and Gauge confirmed operational besides burping it what else could it be.















94 yj 4.0L pretty much stock
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UPDATE First, i want to thank Bruinjeeper, Timatoe, Fishadventure and waternut, thank you all for sharing your wisdom and confirming where my conclusions were headed.
i have gone thru 4 fans(all fitment issues besides the last)
2 t stats
1 waterpump possibly 2 (sounds like bearing are going)
i added a few pictures of the engine compartment. don't judge, the wiring is not complete i've got some jumpers roughed in as i finalize some system installs. as of right now 08/30/2021 1113 hours there is no t stat installed, no e fan, it crapped out, reference photo 4
waterpump and t stat are both from auto-zone pump is their name brand and motorad is the tstat 195deg.
if stage 2 is a brand than that is what i was sold thru Jegs. it was a push/puller depending on wiring. as far as the fan goes. its my daily driver so i cant keep having these issues so im going mechanical again for now.

It overheats in traffic and stop lights. in this SFV heat it stays around mid way. in the morning or at night it stays around 195

ive heard horror stories about overheating if not burped properly. so im going to spend some extra time with that right now
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update to the update...So i attached another picture showing the fan assembly w/shroud.I wanted to clarify something, when the fan was installed it worked really well. Had a bit of trouble with the adjustments but when i got it dialed in it would turn on at 210 and even though the controller stated it would shut off 10 degrees below the on setting mines was roughly 20 degrees. These fans just kept blowing up on me and the electrical was sound.
So there was a fan shroud which you can see in the attached photo.
Boojo, you are correct. i would go as far as 35 mph and under would overheat
The Fan claimed it pulled 2150cfm. Per his post above, Siva claims a min of 3500. I don't know this to be true or false but my gut says he's correct. The engine compartment seemed hotter than normal with the electric fan installed.
The radiator is relatively new and got an extreme flushing. Why flush a new radiator? I had a brain fart and allowed a pimple faced kick at autozone to sell me on the orange radiator juice when i knew it should be green. Well rumor has it the two dont mix, hence the flush



It got a flex o lite 17" inch reverse rotation silver flex fan with 2" spacer no fan shroud. i use to be able to run this in the desert crawling 100+ degrees no fan no shroud and the aluminum radiator in the photos and the temp wouldn't Flinch



Waternut, it was the burping. it wasnt until i read your post could i even imagine that much air in the system. Im testing it out in Gorman this sunday if i can get away


Last question, i developed some popping on deceleration, with the overheating issue i thought head gasket. Is this possible? i assume i would loose rad fluid and that wasnt the case. i most likely have to re-torque the pacesetter headers i installed.



Thank you all and im Proud of yall staying on track and not turning this into a witch hunt
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update to blah blah blah....

Thank you all for your patience, ive been traveling with work for the past couple of months. I promised myself i would continue this thread through resolution as there is no definitive answers to this overheating issue. I'm positive now there is not one solution(/rollseyes...stating the obvious)

So now I'm looking for reassurance to my thought process. Cooling system is back to stock minus a three row aluminum radiator and no shroud.

  1. 195 Deg. thermostat new and test in a pot of hot water(temp confirmed with external kitchen thermometer). Also installed with spring to block.
  2. Water pump is new and functioning. Thermostat was removed and saw flow of water across the top of radiator. We have a reverse pump system so I'm thinking flow should be from driver to passenger while standing in front of the vehicle(Mines is from passenger to driver). Diagnosis-wrong water pump!?!? I have a new one on stand-by with an R stamped on the impeller(did not confirm this with currently installed water pump).
  3. on the chance this water pump is correct than its a matter of bleeding the system. OMFG ive done this 3 times and air is still burping out. I'm burping with the front of the vehicle raised about 1 1/2' above the rear, radiator cap off and coolant topped off. i see the coolant raise and spill out if ive overfilled it and bubbles follow. if i haven't overfilled, it will raise to just that point, bubbles happen and level drops. now based on previous post from those with much more knowledge than I, this can be an excruciatingly painful process. key is patience.

Please for the last time provide some guidance and i promise to bury this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Are you using a coolant fill funnel such as a Lisle 24680 when burping it? That is a game changer and the only way to do it. I have done this a long time for a living and fight air pockets at least once a week even with all my experience.

You caught on to the correct thing though. Patience.
Boojo35, You knocked sense into or jarred some brain cells loose with this gizmo you mentioned. Id get frustrated and call it quits. id come out the next morning and have to fill the system more then it lost or so it felt. Well i purchased this gizmo to see if air was leaking back into the system on cool down. Headed out in a few, ill let you know.

Thanks for the Brain food Bruin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Boojo, comments from the peanut gallery are always welcome here..... ;P



so if Ive learned my lessons here at all i have isolated the issue to the T stat and water-pump, regardless of how new they are. the only deviation from stock is a 3 row aluminum radiator and no Fan shroud. now if i was only having issues at low speed, the fan shroud would become a factor. from what i can see the T stat never opens, even after having confirmed operation in a stove top pot. So im going to change the water pump and T stat. Recommendations on quality brands please enough of this fast food BS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Sorry for the delayed response been under the weather lately.

Fish its funny you mention that, as far as the Tstat goes I may be the creator of my own demise. you can see from the picture that the placement for my weep hole my not have been ideal when the tstat is instated you can see that the gasket covers the weep hole, so i basically screwed myself.

I was taught to use some RTV along with the gaskets especially in these older vehicles.
I was looking for a quality Water pump anyone have brands they can suggestions?



Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The Water pump and New T Stat are give mes. I Know 195 deg is Factory norm but someone posted what i thought was a valid point...Drop from 195 to 180(i think is the next value available) being in Southern Cali Normal temps aren't 75 Degrees(not speaking about right now, meaning most of the year). im going to be doing alot of crawling soon not rock crawling just overgrown fire roads. Thoughts on the lower T stat temp?

Fish the boil over was a combo of things, City driving with a lot of stop and go and no fan shroud. Most likely the temp was sneaking its way up with out me noticing. Therefore when i parked and shut down it down, it pushed it right over the edge. Fan shroud is on the way, according to all collected wisdom this should eliminate the low speed over heating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Just got the fan shroud, installing tomorrow. i am going to wait on the water pump to make sure I'm chasing the right tail.

Fish apparently the boil over was a one time event and it was extremely hot out that day. Cats relatively new and i have a smog due. I'm friends with the smog tech, ill see if he can provide some insight as to the lean/rich issue. but isn't this all controlled by the ECU? i was thinking at some point to do the 4 hole injector swap, if i can find any more positive feedback on it.

Chris tyvm for your input.
 
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