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8" sub console project, pics inside...

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The rain they threatened us with hasn't shown itself, so I dove into building this weekend. It's not done yet, I'm waiting for the last of the fiberglass to dry, then I can knock down the big lumps and spray some cheapo bedliner over it.

So to start with, you need a plan. I started with what was suggested here - http://community.webshots.com/album/63423573sSraTy , but some of his numbers didn't fit my Jeep too well, mainly the height of the rear part of the notch for the emergency brake. It could be because he has the stock sub brackets to hold everything in place, whereas mine is sitting floor level.


Anyway, I whipped up my own plan.....

The math comes out to 0.233 cubic feet of airspace before sub displacement. My sub takes up 0.03 ft^3 and is recommended for a 0.20 ft^3 box stuffed with polyfill. I got lucky there, didn't I?

After that I started gathering materials.


I used a 2'x2' piece of 5/8" particle board from Lowe's because it was cheap and is plenty strong enough for a low powered 8 in a box with no large flat surfaces. That one sheet wasn't quite enough, but I had some scraps laying around.

Here are some prices, some are estimates because I had it laying around
5/8" by 2'x2' particle board - $3.57
Wood glue - $2.57 (and a bottle will make probably 20 of these boxes)
1-1/4" drywall screws - ~$3 (or clamps, or brad nails)
1 qt fiberglass resin - $12.96 (I should have went to Walmart, it was about $10)
1 package fiberglass cloth - $4.68 (should be enough for 2 boxes)
1 can truck bedliner spray - $6.96
Card board - come on, you can find free card board!
Masking tape - I have no clue what this stuff costs, I have like 10 rolls here

Of course you'll need other stuff like a measuring tape, latex gloves, a jigsaw or tablesaw or circular saw. I used a jigsaw and then made my angles with a wood rasp (I really need to get some better tools....).

Anyway, more pics, since you all are getting bored by now.

So the cutting began. For those of you who never made a box before, here's how you cut out the circle for the sub. Drill a hole, and start from there. I made my cutout 8.5" in diameter because I was later making a ring to flush mount the sub.


And some of the pieces cutout.


This was about when I decided it was way too nice out and quit working Friday to go for a nice long motorcycle ride. It's fun riding this on the street. :D

Yes it's a two-stroke, and yes I get lots of funny looks.
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adam728 said:
Why stick with an 8 if doing the rear seat box? Go with a single ten, or a pair of 8's! Do you already have the sub or something?

I did the in-seat box before ever doing the console. Loved it. Only reason I built the console is because 90% of the time I am not running the back seat anymore.
just don't want to have to pay 150 bucks for speakers, when i could have just spent 70 on one for the console.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
ClemsonJeepGC said:
just don't want to have to pay 150 bucks for speakers, when i could have just spent 70 on one for the console.
Then just run one ten. More cone area, almost always more x-max, more output (assuming the proper amp for it). Tens are much more common than 8's, so usually you can find super cheap sales on some decent subs. I bought one of my favorites, a Pioneer TS-W256C from www.sounddomain.com for $39. Not bad for 350 rms and 11.2 mm x-max.

Don't you love how once you start to plan a project things always go in 100 different directions. I had no intentions of ever doing a center console box, then one day it just happened to be by far the best option for my needs.
 

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would my 300 watt amp be powerful enough for that?
Does the seat have to be lifted for 8s or 10s? If so, how? I am missing the right rear leg of the seat....where do I find those?
 

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Concord Amp: CA 2075 MOSFET POWER
300 W Peak Power
2/1 - Channel
Active Crossover
Bass EQ: +6dB or FLAT
Low Pass Filter: 120Hz, 80Hz, or OFF
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Hmmm, definitly don't want a 350 rms sub with that bad boy. A quick Ebay search showed only one Concord amp, and it looks pretty cheap. Since it's rated in peak power I am guessing rms to be 150, at best. RMS is what matters when matching up stereo components, peak doesn't mean crap. Some amps will claim 400 rms, then something rediculas like 1500 watts peak. Always ignore peak!

I'm also guessing it's only capable of a 4 ohm bridge, so you are looking at a sub that will run 100-150 rms and is a 4 ohm single voice coil. Kind of dumps you back in the land of 8's, or low end 10's.

In all seriousness, I would upgrade you amp!
 

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i just took the 8 out of my box I had behind the back seat and put my 6" bazzooka sub in it (screwed a board with smaller hole onto it) and it sounded a hell of lot better. So then I put it between the front seats for an idea of how it would sound in the console and it sounded good enough for me to try it this way first.
I didnt realize how crappy my 8 was until this little test. The magnet on the 8 is tiny compared to the one on the 6.
So now I think i will build a box out of MDF for my console.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
How much airspace is there in the Bazooka tube it came in? There's the answer to that question.

I know of a few people that have pulled Bazooka tubes apart to use the sub in another box. All have been sadly disapointed. The subs are lame, and need a fairly large ported box to do anything. Throw it in a small sealed enclosure and be prepared to be awe-struck by extremly pathetic low end bass.

I'm all about doing things cheap (I have around $350 invested in my entire system, and some of it has been in different rides of mine for 7 years now). But there is a point where taking shortcuts and using crappy equipment just doesn't pay off.
 

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adam728 said:
How much airspace is there in the Bazooka tube it came in? There's the answer to that question.

I know of a few people that have pulled Bazooka tubes apart to use the sub in another box. All have been sadly disapointed. The subs are lame, and need a fairly large ported box to do anything. Throw it in a small sealed enclosure and be prepared to be awe-struck by extremly pathetic low end bass.

I'm all about doing things cheap (I have around $350 invested in my entire system, and some of it has been in different rides of mine for 7 years now). But there is a point where taking shortcuts and using crappy equipment just doesn't pay off.
I had the subwoofer laying around because back when I had an explorer I replaced its woofer with it......i never had the bazooka tube. The 8" I was using for a while in the back of the jeep was from a Pioneer Truck Rider box. I decided to try the 6" bazooka sub in that box instead (the box I made for the jeep, not the truck rider box) and it sounded a hell of lot better.......good enough for me to go ahead and build a console box for it. I have the box done now except for the section that needs fiber glass. I could skip the fiber glass and just make the box half as wide because of the emergency brake and that would give me .1 cubic feet or I could do the fiber glass thing (not sure how much more cubic feet that would give me (.06 maybe).
Anyway, I dont have the tube so I dont know how much space it had, and was wondering if .1 cubic feet was too small an amount of space. My box is similar to yours but about 3 or 4 inches shorter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I'm guessing that will be way small, but you can try it.

On Bazooka's website it shows that all the 6.5" sub tubes are right around 6.75 x 18.375, plus the external port. Figure inside dimensions of 6.25 x 17.5 and you get 0.31 cubic feet, ported. I've never heard of anyone having good luck putting a sub from one of those tubes into a sealed box. That doesn't mean you can't do it and be happy with it though.

If it were me I'd glass to get the area around the parking brake. But also if it were me I wouldn't bother with the Bazooka sub. So it's up to you.
 

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yea the box it sounded good in is .31.
The console box i made is .11 and it souned horrible, but was also not sealed all the way around yet and air was escaping thru the cracks. I sealed it last night and will try again today. If it still sounds bad I will start trying to make the box bigger. If that doesnt work then I will try the white liner (maybe). If that still doesnt work, I might do the back seat thing with a new amp and 10" speaker.
The only reason I'm looking for the cheapest way to get decent bass is because I think I will only have this jeep for 2 more years at the most because I see the new wrangler in my future.
 

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alright I am done. Made a box for the 6" Bazooka Sub woofer and it sounds good. Better than the 8 I had behind the back seat. Now I think my dash and soundbar speakers suck. The bass from my new console woofer does fly out the jeep compared to when i had it downfiring behind the back seat. Just a little more tweaking with the bass and I think I might be ready to commit to cutting a hole in the side of my console.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
ClemsonJeepGC said:
alright I am done. Made a box for the 6" Bazooka Sub woofer and it sounds good. Better than the 8 I had behind the back seat. Now I think my dash and soundbar speakers suck. The bass from my new console woofer does fly out the jeep compared to when i had it downfiring behind the back seat. Just a little more tweaking with the bass and I think I might be ready to commit to cutting a hole in the side of my console.
Great! Now.......

PICS!
 

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ha, i knew that was coming! I will do so tonight. I still need to spray the outside with bed liner to make it water proof.
Adam, what did you do about the 2 screws that held the console down in the middle at the bottom. On mine, it was the 2 screws at the bottom of the white liner. Also, do you lose a lot of bass when going 50+ mph as compared to when the woofer was firing at the floor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
My console just has one screw under the front cup holders and two screws in the rear cup holders. There was nothing under the white liner.

I can't really compare down-firing vs center console, because I had a pair of subs when I was downfiring, so of course it was louder. Either setup would get drowned out by the wind / road noise with the top down, although with the sub firing into the seat I can still feel the bass, so it gives the illusion of hearing it.
 
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