Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
1 - 20 of 186 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The rain they threatened us with hasn't shown itself, so I dove into building this weekend. It's not done yet, I'm waiting for the last of the fiberglass to dry, then I can knock down the big lumps and spray some cheapo bedliner over it.

So to start with, you need a plan. I started with what was suggested here - http://community.webshots.com/album/63423573sSraTy , but some of his numbers didn't fit my Jeep too well, mainly the height of the rear part of the notch for the emergency brake. It could be because he has the stock sub brackets to hold everything in place, whereas mine is sitting floor level.


Anyway, I whipped up my own plan.....

The math comes out to 0.233 cubic feet of airspace before sub displacement. My sub takes up 0.03 ft^3 and is recommended for a 0.20 ft^3 box stuffed with polyfill. I got lucky there, didn't I?

After that I started gathering materials.


I used a 2'x2' piece of 5/8" particle board from Lowe's because it was cheap and is plenty strong enough for a low powered 8 in a box with no large flat surfaces. That one sheet wasn't quite enough, but I had some scraps laying around.

Here are some prices, some are estimates because I had it laying around
5/8" by 2'x2' particle board - $3.57
Wood glue - $2.57 (and a bottle will make probably 20 of these boxes)
1-1/4" drywall screws - ~$3 (or clamps, or brad nails)
1 qt fiberglass resin - $12.96 (I should have went to Walmart, it was about $10)
1 package fiberglass cloth - $4.68 (should be enough for 2 boxes)
1 can truck bedliner spray - $6.96
Card board - come on, you can find free card board!
Masking tape - I have no clue what this stuff costs, I have like 10 rolls here

Of course you'll need other stuff like a measuring tape, latex gloves, a jigsaw or tablesaw or circular saw. I used a jigsaw and then made my angles with a wood rasp (I really need to get some better tools....).

Anyway, more pics, since you all are getting bored by now.

So the cutting began. For those of you who never made a box before, here's how you cut out the circle for the sub. Drill a hole, and start from there. I made my cutout 8.5" in diameter because I was later making a ring to flush mount the sub.


And some of the pieces cutout.


This was about when I decided it was way too nice out and quit working Friday to go for a nice long motorcycle ride. It's fun riding this on the street. :D

Yes it's a two-stroke, and yes I get lots of funny looks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Day 2
I started putting things together. This took a long time because of my crappy equpiment. The guide on the jigsaw has been broken and welded, so it doesn't cut a perfectly verticle line, it puts a little angle on everything. So I had to use the rasp and a sanding block to get all the edges to fit properly. One day I'll stop being a cheap-*** and buy a new saw.



Now, on the last version I built I rushed the fiberglass work and it sagged inwards and too up valuable mounting depth, I couldn't flush mount. So this time I put a little Press-and-seal on the sub and installed it, so even if the cardboard does sag it can't take up the subs space. My other problem last time was using corregated cardboard. It's so thick once glassed that I might as well used wood and saved time.




Now for a final quick test fit....


A note on that top picture. See where the factory sub cutout is located? That's what makes this project a pain in the ***. If one wanted to move the sub to the upper right corner of the console you would gain at least 1.5" of mounting depth. Of course it would require new holes to be cut in the console, but it is an option.

Then some glass starts going down

This part has been the biggest pain because it is around 90 degrees here today. Working time with the resin is 1-2 minutes, so I've mixed around 8 batches just to get 3 layers of cloth on this thing.

I will update when it is painted and installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I started sanding, then remembered how much sanding fiberglass sucks. Thought about going and getting some body filler so I could smooth it all out nice and perfect, then said "screw that, it's all going to be hidden anyway".

Bedlined and polyfilled.


In the Jeep


A little bit of usable space.


The stealth factor. Stock deck, 5 channel SoundStream hidden by the top. I plan on making a sort of cover out of grill cloth and a frame to hide the amp good.

 

·
RIP
Joined
·
11,208 Posts
Looks good. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the compliments guys.

As for sound, to me it is good. It "seems" to have lower bass than when I had a pair of the same subs in the rear seat. I think this is because in either setup the 8's don't have much output down low, but being next to me it vibrates the seat a lot more and gives the illusion of more bass. It sounds pretty good, but I do need to do some tweaking (like turn my crossover frequency down some).

It's funny how much of a difference this box made. Like I mentioned in the posts above, I had a center console box that I messed up a little and couldn't flush mount in. I also didn't have any polyfill in that box (now I do). But overall they were both sturdy and almost identical internal volume. With the new box I seem to have much more output through the whole frequency range. I'm running my bass slider much lower now, and will probably back the gain down some.

Having huge, skull crushing bass would be fun, but I have other things I want to spend money on. This setup very nicely fills in the lows that were missing before. Now I need to get new highs! Stock in the rear, 7 year old Memphis Power Reference 4x6's up front. One thing I can say good about them is that I can get all the treble I will ever need from them. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
samger2 said:
You ever think about making another one and selling it?
A few people have asked me this.

I might someday do it, but not too soon. I between now and June I have 1 free weekend, and I also want to get some better tools before I attempt any more boxes. A circular saw and new jig saw are on the list, along with 100 other things.

My one fear is fitment. What fits my Jeep might not fit someone elses, although I could always build in a little more clearance.

The other issue is the sub itself. My Dayton is very shallow, 3-7/8" mounting depth. You aren't going to find anything shallower than that really, and mine is within 1/8" of touching at the back.

So if I do decide to make some more it won't be for a few months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
i wish i could do something like that, but my stock 98 console is not a factory sub console so I would have to cut slits I guess unless there are any other options?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,070 Posts
kdx200 or 220...fun bike though:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
how hard is fiberglass to work with if you have never done it before? How necessary is to use fiberglass in that portion of the box?
 

·
RIP
Joined
·
11,208 Posts
ClemsonJeepGC said:
how hard is fiberglass to work with if you have never done it before? How necessary is to use fiberglass in that portion of the box?
It's not hard, per say, but it is critical. Be sure to tripple-read the instructions for tempature, and qualtity of product and hardner and be sure to use appropriate gloves, and mixing equipment. It's not difficult but it is important to be accurate.

The reason they glass that piece is to make the building process easier and also give the speaker more room behind it. Wood may take up too much room to allow the speaker to fit properly plus, with all of the comples pieces, it would be a complicated build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
if i build that box exactly the same....will if fit in my 1998 factory console which was never a sub console? Would I just take out that white liner and be good to go?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
"If one wanted to move the sub to the upper right corner of the console you would gain at least 1.5" of mounting depth. Of course it would require new holes to be cut in the console, but it is an option."

If I did this would the box still be built exactly the same size? And would moving the sub cause any other problems (like looking stupid or firing at the driver's seat in a bad way). I'm going to start making this box this week....and then buy a sub for it, then replace my factory speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Mine wasn't a sub console, I just took out the white liner and the little cover over the grill slots.

Fiberglass isn't too hard at all. Definitly get some latex gloves! No matter what you do you'll get some resin on you, and it SUCKS to get off. Building that part out of wood could probably be possible, but would be pretty complicated and difficult to assemble. Fiberglass is stronger than wood on a thickness-to-thickness comparison.

If I did this would the box still be built exactly the same size? And would moving the sub cause any other problems (like looking stupid or firing at the driver's seat in a bad way).
You would need to cut new slots in the console. I believe you could make the box exactly the same. But I haven't done it, so I can't say for sure.

KDX 220
It's looked like this for about 7 weeks now. Tore it down for a quick rebuild, found the cylinder plating was starting to flake, figured while that was out getting fixed I'd go a little further. Unfortunatly I've been on the road for about 4 week now and haven't been home to put the damn thing together yet. :( I WANT TO RIDE!
 
1 - 20 of 186 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top