Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been discussed at length in other threads but it seems like the other threads have details that are different than my current setup. My CJ-5 is mostly stock and will be used for around town use and currently has fender well headers and cherry bombs. After a couple days I have come to the conclusion the fumes in the truck are too much for me and I would like to convert back to conventional stock type exhaust. First question is getting stock manifolds or picking up in frame shorty headers. It seems like the used stock manifolds may be more expensive. Is anyone running Hedman Shorties? Seems like those are fairly cost effective. If you are running these, does this let you run a stock y-pipe? I'm trying to keep the total cost under $800 and my exhaust shop said they would charge about $500 for a custom header back exhaust. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,725 Posts
I got used factory exhaust manifolds for my 360, which actually flow well, for $90.

Had to give them a little love before installing.

Then my exhaust guy built a custom exhaust that included a crossover in front of the oil pan, so everything stays above the frame rails, for $900, including muffler, CAT, and O2 bung..

Wood Gun barrel Air gun Metal Art

Photograph White Bicycle part Gun barrel Revolver

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire


Vehicle Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Automotive tire Tire Tread Wheel Bumper
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got used factory exhaust manifolds for my 360, which actually flow well, for $90.

Had to give them a little love before installing.

Then my exhaust guy built a custom exhaust that included a crossover in front of the oil pan, so everything stays above the frame rails, for $900, including muffler, CAT, and O2 bung..

View attachment 4160094
View attachment 4160095
View attachment 4160091

View attachment 4160092
View attachment 4160093
Perfect, looks great!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,190 Posts
While I'm not a fan of headers, most "fume" issues result from the mufflers not having been routed out from under the body properly. A set of "kick outs" on the end of the mufflers may be a cheaper alternative to your issue
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
698 Posts
Where are you at, D? If you're anywhere close to West Texas, you can have my 304 manifolds. I picked up a set of Patriot Clippster ceramic-coated shorty headers from Summit Racing. https://www.summitracing.com/search...jeep/model/cj7/part-type/headers?fr=part-type

The previous owner of the '80 Laredo engine donor vehicle had Redneck'd their factory exhaust into a true-dual set-up by cutting off the 'Y-inlet' from the passenger side and closing it off, then ran a straight pipe to the rear on the passenger side - the factory cat and muffler was replaced by a 12" Cherry Bomb, with one on the passenger side to match. I can't wait to hear how it sounds when I fire it up [hopefully] next week... just before I take it to the exhaust shop and have them fab a complete replacement system with a set of Magnaflows.

I have a set of Hooker Competition long-tube ceramic-coated headers on my '71 Mach 1, and I'm a believer in the ceramic-coatings. First, it looks cool (just like stainless/chrome, but won't 'blue' as it gets hot over time). Second, I fully expected the temps to be in the 450+ range on the tubes just out of the heads, and was pleasantly surprised to see they were consistently under 300... even after running for awhile under various conditions (after driving, idling w/hood up and hood down, etc.). It's a little more expensive than plain or painted headers, but well worth the investment, IMHO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,725 Posts
I was a little dubious about painting my manifolds. I really didn't expect the paint to last long. To my surprise, the VHT manifold paint that I used has held up extremely well. That was 10 years ago, and they still look like the day I painted them.

I was extremely anal about prep work before painting, though. I wire-wheeled every bit of rust off, then soaked them with Phosphoric Prep & Etch for 2 days.

I love when products work better than I expect.

Liquid Fluid Plastic bottle Gas Auto part


Tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Carbon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was a little dubious about painting my manifolds. I really didn't expect the paint to last long. To my surprise, the VHT manifold paint that I used has held up extremely well. That was 10 years ago, and they still look like the day I painted them.

I was extremely anal about prep work before painting, though. I wire-wheeled every bit of rust off, then soaked them with Phosphoric Prep & Etch for 2 days.

I love when products work better than I expect.

View attachment 4160099

View attachment 4160100
Thanks for this information, I was going to ask how they turned out. They look great and I will follow suit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,190 Posts
If you run a single or dual exhaust out the back I recommend you install a flange(s) around the transmission/t case area. Breaking the exhaust can make removing the drivetrain a LOT simpler.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shawn Watson

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,725 Posts
You're welcome, always pleased to help a fellow CJer.

I used the same prep procedure and VHT paint on several components when I built my 360, with equally impressive results. I'm completely sold.

In full disclosure, I cured my manifolds, after painting, in our kitchen oven when my wife was out running errands, Then I lit a candle in the kitchen before she got home. She never suspected any foul play. 😇

Gas Machine Engineering Metal Auto part


Wood Helmet Gas Rim Bumper
Vehicle Dog Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle registration plate
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You're welcome, always pleased to help a fellow CJer.

I used the same prep procedure and VHT paint on several components when I built my 360, with equally impressive results. I'm completely sold.

In full disclosure, I cured my manifolds, after painting, in our kitchen oven when my wife was out running errands, Then I lit a candle in the kitchen before she got home. She never suspected any foul play. 😇

View attachment 4160104

View attachment 4160105 View attachment 4160106
Wow, great looking build!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,951 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Mister4x4

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
282 Posts
If you run a single or dual exhaust out the back I recommend you install a flange(s) around the transmission/t case area. Breaking the exhaust can make removing the drivetrain a LOT simpler.
I completely agree. When redoing my exhaust I put this type of flange roughly inline with the T-case. It’s a pretty strong flange, but replace the bolts with stainless to avoid them rusting solid.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
I know this has been discussed at length in other threads but it seems like the other threads have details that are different than my current setup. My CJ-5 is mostly stock and will be used for around town use and currently has fender well headers and cherry bombs. After a couple days I have come to the conclusion the fumes in the truck are too much for me and I would like to convert back to conventional stock type exhaust. First question is getting stock manifolds or picking up in frame shorty headers. It seems like the used stock manifolds may be more expensive. Is anyone running Hedman Shorties? Seems like those are fairly cost effective. If you are running these, does this let you run a stock y-pipe? I'm trying to keep the total cost under $800 and my exhaust shop said they would charge about $500 for a custom header back exhaust. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I have a 77 CJ7 with the 304. As original, it was rated 150hp at the flywheel, with the 2 barrel carb, cast iron headers and single exhaust, including a cat converter, and hot air intake under the hood. 8.0 compression ratio.
I did a significant rebuilt. rebuilt the engine to
  • bored out .030" so its now about 308 cid
  • now 9.5:1 compression but feeding it premium
  • New cam with same Jeep performance - idles at 500rom, good torque at 800, runs out of air by 3800.
  • Edelbrock intake manifold for 4 barrel
  • 4 barrel, 600cfm carb
  • basic tube headers going to dual exhausts out the back, with a H pipe in the middle
  • cold air intake using 4" sewer pipe from top of passenger A pillar down to side, and dryer vent hose to connect to full enclosed air cleaner enclosure.
  • Pertronics electronics ignition
  • ported and polished the intake and exhaust ports to improve flow, and made sure each cylinder was exactly matched to the others for volume (+/- 1%), and also smoothed.
I did all of this myself, its not hard. Dino's now at 250hp at the wheels.

I have the original 2 barrel manifold, the iron exhaust manifolds with air injectors, and the exhaust plumbing including the y-pipe. I'll sell the whole set to you for $400 plus whatever the shipping will be to you. Let me know. [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Is there anyone out there with stock manifolds that could do me a huge favor? I'm looking for the center to center measurement of the bolts where the Y-Pipe connects to the stock manifold. If anyone has a picture of this connection it would be a huge bonus. I won't have my new stock manifolds until Tuesday (Huge thank you to Mister4x4) but I want to go ahead and order the ball fitting because my exhaust shop said they could fit me in on Wednesday. They said they machine that makes the ball joint is broken down so if I can supply the ball end they can take the rest. Thank you!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,951 Posts
Looks like 3.5 inches center to center.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,951 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,951 Posts
Photo of CJ5 & CJ7 Waldron's Y-Pipes -


Bicycle part Gas Auto part Nickel Bicycle fork
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,951 Posts
Modified (gutted) heat riser on passenger exhaust manifold: (needed for spacing of Y-Pipe).

Fixture Wood Natural material Circle Auto part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Excellent, thank you everyone. I'm going to give this one a shot. Loots like the max center to center is 3 7/8" so I think it should work. I will let everyone know in case this comes up again in the future. I was going to buy a Waldron Y-Pipe but they are 6 weeks out right now and I'm way to impatient for that.
Cylinder Auto part Font Metal Automotive wheel system
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top