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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Reviving an old thread.

I got several cat-1 attachments for my old tractor that really are to much as it's only a cat-0
I got a bottom plow, but use a scraper blade and a box blade regularly to groom the driveway.

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But $1600 for one for a 2" receiver is a little steep so I was thinking of modifying a popular tire carrier as soon as they are available.

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I already have the mounting hoop and hydraulic lift, just need some way of attaching it.

I need suggestions so I don't rip it off when grooming the drive.

If they can put a 3 point hitch on a 4X4 buggy, why not a CJ?

Before:
Plant Sky Snow Tree Road surface


After:
Plant Tree Leaf Branch Natural landscape
 

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John I think you're on to a good idea. Here's something to look at. https://farmjeep.blogspot.com/2017/05/a-brief-history-of-jeep-implement-lifts.html The swing out won't be a good place for the upper link. I think sooner or later it will bend or even break the spindle. There are other ways of attaching it though. Here's another link https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/stratton-3-point-hitch_topic36869.html John in the first picture something like this could be made to fit into 2 receivers mounted in the bumper. I would brace the frame where the bumper mounts. Basically when you want to use the hitch it would be attached then when you're done remove it. It would all need to be built into one unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was mimicking how the Lift arms attach on my tractor. Usually it has a swivel on the end of the arm so one point won't hold it.



They take the brunt of the pulling force of the attachments. THe upper point is under compression.

I can get some measurements and pictures when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A little sneak peek into my new bumper...

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All that addo up to this:

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No, it's not bolted on yet but it slipped right over the ends of the bolts that is holding on the trailer hitch.

Some painting and longer bolts and I'm ready for a little driveway maintenance!

I can't begin to describe how overbuilt this bumper is. I'll never worry about a rear end tap crushing some fiberglass ( I have a tendency to back up a little too fast at times)

A BIG thanks to Jim, when it's all hooked up, I'll send you some pictures.

Oh? What's it for you ask?
Here is a picture of a test fit, need to buy some more 2X2.

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Interesting...



I was trying to picture how to connect a single bottom plow onto mine once. I had to dig a ditch almost 50 yards long, and thru rocky dirt. Thought a plow would loosen it, then I just have to scoop out what was left. Was quicker to just use a rototiller and break up the dirt that way...
 

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I purchased brackets made by Eddie Bersk years ago for strengthening a rear CJ bumper. Never used them on my CJ at the time.

I plan to use them on my current '79 CJ5. There are 4 heavy duty L shaped brackets and all nuts, bolts & tubes. The brackets sandwich
the rear frame rails. Each L bracket has the holes drilled - some oblong - and sit on the outsides of the rear frame rails and against the
inside of the rear cross-member. The brackets bolt to the rear frame rails and tubes are included to be placed inside the frame rails. The
L portion then bolts to the bumper. Each bolt passes through a tube so the frame does not get crushed when the bolts are tightened.

I will get some photos and measurements of these and post back here. I think these are a must if putting any king of stress on a CJ rear hitch.
 

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Here are photos of one of the “pair” of brackets I purchased years ago from Eddie Bersk. Great reinforcement to a CJ rear bumper / tire carrier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's a very nice reinforcement for the rear.

The lower hitch on my Jeep that will be doing the pulling looks like this:

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There is a long arm that attaches to the frame as far back as the centerline of the axle. This takes a lof of the force away from the rear cross member.
Also I have an AFW frame and the rear cross member is about 3/16" thick.

Hopefully it will be enough. Wish I had the rear reinforcement my old '63 CJ had. That was really reinforced
 

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I like that hitch. Only prob is with my stock 5 the receiver would hang really low. I like the long side tie backs to the frame.
 

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Our fuel tanks are in the way of the old CJ rear frame to crossmember “V” reinforcement. Be nice to have a quarter inch thick crossmember!
 

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I have that same model hitch on my 84 for almost 20 years now. It's definitely stout, and rated for far greater loads than I'd ever consider pulling with the CJ7. Although it comes off low, it sits just about perfect height with the 2.5 spring lift. In fact, I've been trying to figure out/find a similar style frame-rail tie-in hitch for the CJ8, but the 8's frame has a body mount bracket situated about 6" from the rear cross-member. :/

I also found out the hard way that the powder coated 'slip tubes' for the frame tie-ins on this hitch will eventually rust together- last time I had mine off, It took major effort and a lot of heat to separate the pieces. Once cleaned up and re-painted, I lathered the interior tube with copper anti-seize during assembly. Hoping that helps next time it has to come off-

Really like how if looks with that sweet Crabtree rear bumper!

Hoov
 

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John, it's nice to see someone trying to use a CJ for what it was intended for, a tool carrier. When I was a kid the only CJ's you saw around had either a boom on them to transport and launch docks, or a post hole auger, or a trencher. Very few were actually used as a vehicle. There were quite a few around as second cars for the snow and to drive on the beach on weekends, but unless your 1st car died unexpectedly you never drove the CJ.

I've been watching your little project here and it looks great. I've actually been toying with an attachment setup for my JD420. It came with a front mount snow plow, snow blower, and a belly mount mower, but nothing on the rear. I've never been a big fan of a 3-pt hitch, I've always leaned towards hydraulics for everything I have built so I was thinking I'd make a rear attaching point to match the front mounts used for the plow. that way I could use similar attachments front and rear. One of the things I wanted to make is a boom for lifting, and depending on what i wanted to lift would determine where I wanted to mount it.

That being said, you might want to think about making a similar setup for the front of the Jeep so you could do the same. Just a thought.

Eric J
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, A boom is interesting.

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$119.00 at tractor supply...

But a boom with a little Harbor freight winch would be more than interesting....



Man would that save my back.

I've also seen engine hoist converted into a 3 point hitch boom..



And I already have a similar setup on the front....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think an update is in order as the 3 point lift is just about finished.

I finished making the mounts for the plow lifts using a 2x2x1/4" square tubing.

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I attached it using 2 3/4" bolts on each side.

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I like how the outer radius on the 2 x 2 fits snugly into the inner radius of the 3 x 3 angle iron of the old plow lift

The distance between the two mounts on the plow lift was a little off for the two receivers on the bumpers and I could of compensated with washers but clamping down the bolts I found that it made the fit tighter. The offset was planned to be adjusted later using washers. No one like to be a little off when usin such big steel.

I mounted the lower plow mount off a Meyers plow.





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These use 5/8" attachment points. These are designed for attaching a 1-1/4" square bar instead of the normal 2 x 3/4" stadard cat 0 Lift arms.

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Yes, I know I don't have the retainer clips in yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
As I mentioned before the lift arms are 1-1/4" square stock. (Did I say that right Jim)

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That was because of the limitations of the Meyer plow mount. This might get me in trouble later as the ends mounts don't go all the way to the ground. (Oops)

This makes the lowest point about 13" off the ground at the lowest point.

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And 31" at the highest position.

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With all the slop on the attachment ( 3/4" hole, 5/8" pin) it gives me about 16" lift.

I had to modify the lift arm so I could attach the top link. All I had to do was cut off the chain holder on the end. This gave plenty of room for a CAT 0 top link

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I cut and bent some control arms that are 2 x 1/4" flat stock. I attached them to the lift arm from the original plow lift just forward of the attachment of the hydraulic piston.

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I welded on some lift points at the 1/3rd point of the arms but I think that might be too far back and may need to move it to the 1/2 or 2/3rds position but that wil effect my total lift

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Please don't laugh at my weld. My Lincoln 140 was just about maxed out trying to weld this stuff. I'm getting them fixed. Let's pretend they are just 'tack welds' for now.
 
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