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Hello all. So, about 4 years ago, I put a 3 inch IRO lift WITH Bilsteins on my WJ, but it wasn’t driven a ton. Tie rod, tie rob ends, upper and lower ball joints are all replaced within the last 2 years(again, wasn’t driven a ton cuz I either worked at home at the time, or it was only a 10 minute drive to/from my work, now I drive a little farther, everyday).

Anyway, It’s now developed the dreaded Death Wobble. Going over any significant bumps causes it. Any thoughts as to what might be the cause?
 

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Tire pressure outta whack? Did it have any issues after you lifted it? Is it just over bumps? Mine sat for a few months after needing to replace the engine and the brakes got warped and caused death wobble. Rotors had maybe 5k on them but had gotten warped so anytime I hit the brakes shimmied life a mother.
 
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I have heard about this dreaded syndrome countless times from all across the Googleverse and inter-webs. I have only experienced it once, and it was in my current WJ. Was towing a big (12", probably 2500Lbs) chipper at 55mph, around as sharp of a highway corner as you could handle at 55. Hit a bump at the apex of the turn, and there it was. In lieu of braking I just lifted the throttle and it went away. Terrifying. I only had the Jeep a few weeks at the time, and was riding on the near bald tires it came with. Barely 1/32" left. Had fresh rubber mounted on steelies from Tiresdirect.com shipped a few weeks later. That was March of 2020. I haven't experienced it since, so in my case it must have been the tires. I haven't done anything to the suspension other than stuff some load assist bags in the rear springs.

I hope I never experience it again and wouldn't wish on anyone. Especially towing. Hope you get it sorted out!!
 

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Wheel spacers and rims offset to the outboard will also encourage D/W. After I installed my IRO 3' LA kit I felt a hint of it coming on after hitting a large bump in a curve on the freeway, I increased the caster a degree and hit the same bump again, no issues this time. Installing kits is the easy part, getting those parts tuned in to your particular chassis is the hard time consuming part however it is the most important. My analogy is stringing a guitar, you can replace all the strings with new Ernie Ball's but until those strings are tuned it will not sound correct.
 

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"Do The Harlem Shake! - Death Wobble
What Causes It and What To Check For

Verne SimonsWriterJp StaffPhotographerJul 1, 2013
Actually, don't do the Harlem Shake-hope-fully that fad has died by the time you read this. Also hope your Jeep does not develop death wobble. Death wobble! Dom, dom-dom-dom! It sounds horrible doesn't it?
"

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/154-1307-do-the-harlem-shake-death-wobble/
 

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I have the same set up as you, with 255/70R18 tires. I put new tie rod ends in and it went away.
Later I developed DW when braking. The rotors were warped to ****. (purchased from well know JF seller stating these were warp resistant rotors/pads) I turned them and ran them another 4 months and they warped again, (someone mentioned I need to trash the pads too, but I didn't). It seemed that I have a bad caliper creating drag. New Power Stop Z36 caliper, rotors, and pads are going in this weekend.
Good Luck w/ your DW. I was surprised mine went away with just new TREs but thankfully it did.
 

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Death wobble CAN be solved, with a systematic approach. But you HAVE to go through EVERYTHING and check items off the list. All previous posts are correct when talking about tires, wheel offset. wheel spacers, and tie rod ends. ( I will say the WK swap was WAY to extreme in my opinion). Start by giving the front end a good shakedown. NEVER assume that parts are in good shape simply because they have low mileage. You need to VERIFY that they are all tight. Double check your tire pressures, and your tire condition. (rotate them and se if it changes) Double check your steering stabilizer condition.(this MUST be done OFF the Jeep). Double check your track-bar bushings. Make sure your trac-bar bolt holes on the axle and frame are not wallered out(egg shaped). Post your results here, and we will help you along this journey...
 

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all replaced within the last 2 years
You've missed something, or something else is worn out, or loose.

Even stock height can have DW, but the magic number seems to be 2 1/2". Any higher with a SA and it's just a matter of when not if. I contemplated putting a long arm kit on mine just for that reason.
 

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NEVER assume that parts are in good shape simply because they have low mileage. You need to VERIFY that they are all tight.
This right here needs to be emphasized. One of those lessons that most of us learn the hard way.
 
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