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2006 TJ Sport (Redheaded Mistress): After 10 Years (And the Next 10)

9183 Views 36 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  grogie
Current List of Modifications:
  • Metalcloak duroflex aluminum control arms
  • OME HD springs (with front 3/4" spacer)
  • Front and Rear Detroit TrueTracs
  • Currie AntiRock
  • JKS track bars
  • JB Conversion Super Short SYE, Spicer CV rear driveshaft with rear Dana 44
  • Bilstein 5100 shocks
  • BDS steering stabilizer
  • Drop-Kick Slyders (Linex coated), Bad Apple diff guards, oil pan skid, Rusty's radiator skid
  • Savvy aluminum front bumper (painted)
  • WARN M8000 with controller under the hood, wireless remote, Vicking synthetic winch line, and MaxTrax
  • Derale 20561 transmission cooler
  • AtoZ rear bumper with built in tow receiver
  • Prodigy P2 brake controller with Mopar 7-way wiring harness
  • Savvy Black Magic brakes
  • Rubicon model flares (1" wider than stock, and painted)
  • Custom built expedition trailer with a Tepui roof top tent
  • 285/75 (33") MT/Rs (previously 32")
  • 16x8" Mickey Thompson Classic IIIs (previously 15x8" Eagle alloy wheels)
  • KC headlights, KC foglights, and an AEV rear third brake light.
  • Crown OPDA
  • Rear Tembo Tusk slide on a false floor
  • 42SS Snomaster fridge/freezer
  • National Luna Split Charge System for dual battery charging and monitoring.
  • Two Odyssey Xtreme AGM Batteries
  • Sucking gas bumper sticker. ;)
At the time of this posting, my Jeep is now 10 years old so I thought I'd create a build thread as its evolved a lot (and slowly) over the years. Right now I think it's what I want for the next 10 years. After that, the Jeep will probably go to 35" tires and become a towed Jeep. But we'll see?

Well buying it new, I first had to get the Jeep paid off before I could justify to the better half on spending more money on it to for one lift it. First of all, I like the look of a stock Jeep and from the beginning I had the idea to build a Jeep that I could comfortably and safety drive 70 mph across multiple states, camp, drive some awesome Jeep trails, and then drive it back home. I was also aware of trailers that guys were either buying or building and towing behind their 4x4s, which I also had that idea in my head such as a small, lightweight popup for camping. But I knew that I had to first get the Jeep setup to pull a trailer...

I grew up out west and did a lot of camping. As a teenager, campsites usually consisted of finding a hunter's campsite along an old log road. My dad use to carry a chainsaw to clear fallen trees if needed, so our campsites were remote. Later I use to borrow a girlfriend's dad's lifted Jeep CJ for camping, which was a beast to drive. It was tipsy and had bad brakes, but I loved driving it to find out where Jeep trails went? That lead to me test drive a new Wrangler YJ. I knew I wanted to own a Wrangler someday.

Fast forward, it was finally time to buy my own new Jeep. After I got my wife boozed up over dinner and took her for a test drive of a 2005 TJ, I immediately wrote a $500 check to order my 2006 TJ Sport. Well the Jeep arrived home ten years ago this month on Nov. 11th, 2005 and it's been a love affair with what my wife calls the redheaded mistress :kiss:.

Options at the time included a rear Dana 44 and with the rare option having ABS. I drove it straight from the dealer to a tire shop and traded in the stock tires for a nicer set of A/T Revos. The next morning:

Right away I decided that I was going to drive it to Colorado the following summer so I ordered and installed an oil pan and transmission skid plate. (Okay, it's not exactly heavy duty, but its worked as right away with a stock Jeep, it was getting rubbed on.)

I also installed Mopar's iPod Kit. This was before about anyone else had iPod integration, so this was pretty cool to have! I had a thread here on JF about it which at the time had a lot of views. (2019 Update: Added the Wi-Mi Wireless Bluetooth Car Adaptor that my iPhone connects to.)

On my way to Colorado for that first trip, I stopped at a family owned auto-body shop and installed a set of Rubicon rocker panels for some rocker protection.

On that trip for one I drove it to the top of Imogene Pass. I was rather impressed with where a stock Jeep could drive to. It was this trail that was the first time that I had to use the four-wheel low to climb a step section at 11k feet elevation.

Following that trip, I had to have the stock radiator replaced as it must have received damage as the bottom was fairly out in the open, so I added a Rusty's radiator skid plate to protect it. Since then, no more radiator problems.

Next and thanks to a Christmas present, I installed a hard top lift in my garage and the following summer was the first time the top came off. This was a memorable day being that a Jeep's top just has to eventually come off! Also at this time, I had removed the stock flares and replaced them with Rubicon flares. I also had these flares painted black and clear coated by the family shop (which I like the look of!).

My next purchase were Drop Kick Slyders by Detours, that bolt onto the Jeep's frame. They came powder coated, so I sprayed them with a bedliner and then additional coat of black paint. Originally I saw these advertised to go along with the stock Rubicon rocker panels.

Fast forward a few more years. The Jeep was just a year away from being paid off. So while attending a 4x4 jamboree I bought new polished aluminum alloy wheels for an eventual lift and new tires. These are made in the USA built wheels by American Eagle. They're like moving mirrors, and can be kept polished or they still shine when dirty. Since then I have minimally kept them polished, and they may get replaced when I need new tires again?

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The following spring, the wheels were in motion. Thanks to some side work, I earned some extra money that went into my Jeep's lift fund. So more parts began to be ordered, which included a WARN M8000 winch and an aluminum stubby front bumper made by Savvy Off-Road. The bumper is most impressive, it's super light at just six or so pounds, yet at the same point it's very tough. I primed and painted the bumper black. I then mounted the winch on the bumper, which was funny as the winch was so much heavier then the bumper! I also removed the steel winch cable as I intended to replace it with Viking synthetic winch line.

And more parts! I decided to go with an OME lift, which includes their 2.5" HD springs, JKS track bars and a front 3/4" spacer to compensate for the adding the winch on the front (and as well to level the Jeep out). For tires I went with 32" MT/Rs. Why stop at 32"? Well I had the idea of the eventual trailer, and I thought these tires would also be reasonable for the trailer to also run and so that one spare tire would work for both the Jeep and trailer.

The build also included Bilstein 5100 shocks and a BDS steering stabilizer. A JB Conversion Super Short SYE and Spicer CV rear driveshaft were also installed by Sunfire Off-Road in Sunman, IN.

The Viking synthetic winch line was put on, and the winch control box was wired under the hood. (The wiring for this was beautifully done by Sunfire.)

A Currie AntiRock sway bar was also installed. It gives my Jeep a bit of a floating feel to the front, but it does an awesome job off-road. The front axle just floats over bumps. I highly recommend an AntiRock on any Jeep.

I also removed the rear seat and installed a Bestop rack, which has been nice to open up the small back for camping supplies. (Although the seat does go back in from time to time.) I generally like having this wrack and that's a heavy plastic, it's not bolted to the roll age so the back end of it tends to slide down some. Plus, the originally supplied nuts and bolts were junk and had to be replaced. :(

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And here is stock to not! The lift gave the front a 3-3/4" lift, and 3-1/2" in the rear. The tires added another inch. IMO, this is how Jeep should have sold TJs to begin with.

Okay, not apart of the build, but at this same time, a local Jeep club arranged for a tour of the Jeep Wrangler (JK) factory in Toledo! This was the first public tour Jeep had allowed in 20 years. They actually stopped the line for us to take this group picture. Afterwards they had us group our Jeeps together outside the factory for another picture. This was just as super cool place to get to go with my newly lifted Jeep!

I then installed a CB radio.

And wow… I drove it that summer to Colorado and wow did it drive off-road much better! Not only was the ride softer over the bumps, but the added clearance was great. I also spent a number of following weekends hanging out at a local Badlands Off-Road Park spinning the tires and getting the Jeep dirty.

And I do keep it waxed (or Zaino actually), which some friends laugh at me for having a shinny Jeep. :laugh:

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My next modifications were to get ready to tow a trailer. To start with, AtoZ fab builds a Made in the USA heavy duty rear bumper with a real 2" receiver and tow chain hooks. Still I needed more room for my next trip to Colorado, so I also found an inexpensive small rack for the hitch. This was nice to hold the tent, chairs and a fold-up table, but I had to remove bags in order to open the back of the Jeep.

Thanks to winning a drawing here on JF, I won these Bad Apple diff guards that I installed when I changed fluids. I painted them flame red. :D

I also read about the Derale transmission cooler that Jerry Bransford installed on his Jeep TJ to help keep the Chrysler transmission alive, and I thought that this would also be a good idea to have for pulling a trailer. I again had Sunfire install this cooler for me, which is placed right behind the transfer case. Some guys have asked me if it's not protected enough? It is somewhat under the skid plate and it's not been a problem. I do also spray it off after wheeling.

My next camping trip to Colorado, the rack on the back was nice to have. The transmission cooler was also nice as in the heat of summer, I heard it's fan running often when I stopped. When I drove through Nebraska, the outside temperature was 104 degrees, and with having the Jeep packed and doing 70 mph, I knew that the cooler was a good idea.

And the camping and the Jeep trails were awesome! The Continental Divide was in the background of the first picture (with snow still at the end of July), and the second picture was taken above Leadville.

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I also wanted a soft top and I had regretted not buying the dual-top package back when I ordered my Jeep. At that time, Mopar had released a Sunrider top that allowed for just the front top to fold back. Thanks to a bonus from work, I found a new one still in the box! I like having a hard top for better security of contents for trips, but wow... a Jeep is just not a Jeep without a soft top. I love this top! Sure it's loud on the highway as when it's all closed up as it flaps, but with rear windows out it's rather quiet and great for a hot, sunny day.

Since installing the lift, I came to realize the issue we all have with braking, so I installed (Black Magic) brakes. I also wanted my future trailer to have it's own electric brakes, so researching, I went ahead and installed a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake controller. The install of course wasn't simple for a Jeep that wasn't meant or designed for a controller.

For the Wrangler LJs, Jeep had released a 7-way wiring harness (as an LJ was rated to tow more... 3500#s vs. 2000#s). I had read someone say that they had installed the same harness in a TJ, so it had sounded like it could be done. Upon receiving the harness, I found two different set of Mopar instructions. The first set had me install the back end plugs on the passenger side, however the brake lights for the trailer in the connector did not work.

I then followed the other instructions and moved the rear connection to the driver's side. The lights worked, however when I turned the Jeep's left turn single on, the trailer's right turn signal blinked! :(

To fix this, I went into the wiring on the 7way plug, cut the left and right wires, and switched them. That fixed the problem.

The other fun part of the install was having to tap the brake controller into the correct brake lamp wire. After a lot of searching, I was pretty confident that it was the white wire with the black line! And thankful it was as there were a lot of wires to pick from in a very confined space.

And of course, now my Jeep is tow rated. :laugh:

Sunfire Off-Road also built me a trailer that I based on the Pike's Peak trailer that was once a giveaway here on JF. The trailer build thread is here: trailer. With all of the setup I've done, the trailer really tows great down the highway. Plus having electric brakes is great and was a must.

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Next, I had Sunfire install a full set of the Metalcloak Duroflex control arms (solid extruded aircraft grade aluminum). Dang! They are most beefy! Video:

So far the ride is certainly tighter as I did have a bit of a lose front end with the AntiRock. Bumps are also not as harsh as they were. My Jeep still has it's typical bouncy ride to it, but on the highway, it now feels like it stays straighter then before. With my trailer, I've previously commented that my Jeep feels better (more stable) on the road with the trailer in tow (having that extra weight behind it I figured). Well I have to say now that the Jeep now feels the same way with these control arms and no trailer, and better of course without that rough road jolt that it use to have. And it still tows my trailer great as well!

And here is the bling...

The trailer also evolved by adding a Tepui roof top tent to it. And a following camping trip in Utah...

Image uploading. Refresh page to view
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I then bought an AEV third brake light to eliminate the ugly stock brake light. Well AEV said that this light would work with a TJ, but the plug was different for my '06, so I did some wire splicing and made it work.

I first made sure that the AEV light worked with my wheels, as I figured it would.

Okay, you can't see the red light here, but it works and is bright. Love it.

I also ordered new KC H4 headlights recently. The story to this is that in Sept., 2014, when I was on a camping trip roaming Utah and one of the original headlights went dead. So at a campsite I replaced the old headlight with a cheap option from an autoparts store I passed in some nameless, small town. Fortunately in my tools I carried a set of torx screw drivers (which I ended up leaving at that campsite).

So I of course figured that the second original headlight was on it's way out too :D so I might as well spring from something better. And those KC headlights are awesome. On high beam they seem extra bright, almost like switching on additional lighting.

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I have also replaced the stock fog lights. KC makes direct connect replacement lights. They came with removable rock guards, which originally I was going to remove. But after putting them on, I kind of like them.

Isn't she pretty? (Oh what hides behind the cover!) I have most recently had front and rear Detroit TrueTracs installed. My new friend in fact that owns Sunfire Off-Road suggested a front locker instead of the TrueTrac (as he had never installed a TrueTrac in the front), but at this time, that's not something that I'd want to install in the stock front Dana 30 axle.

With towing the trailer, I definitely wanted to keep the benefits of having a rear limited slip. The Jeep flexes very well, not to mention having the front Currie AntiRock sway bar, so this TrueTrac is just what I wanted. They'll be great for my use, and eliminate having an open front differential. I did a lot of research about TrueTracs here on JF and guys that drive in lose, sandy, sloppy stuff seem to love them. As I earlier said, maybe in 10 years my Jeep will go to 35" tires and I can consider replacing the front Dana 30 and go to a real locker, and of course the other expenses related to running that size of a tire...:D

And at that point, the Jeep would no longer tow, but be towed...

Camping in the Michigan UP...

I also replaced the original factory oil pump drive assembly at 48,000 miles with a Crown.

And here is the serious wear on the original pump that I removed. :rolleyes:

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My Jeep is officially old.

I had an interesting experience at my local Jeep dealer today. I needed a simple rear wheel speed sensor (for the ABS) and found out that Chrysler no longer makes the part and suggested a "vintage" supplier, which has been ordered.
Funny thing, earlier this year I was reading here on JF about guys having to replace the shift cable bushing on their auto TJs at about 10 years, and I actually ordered two of them off of eBay and put them in my tool bag. Well several days ago I returned from a 3500 mile camping trip out west. The following day home I drove to a car wash to spray off the bugs, dirt and road grim, then stopped at a grocery store and picked up the mail just two blocks from my house, and then the gear shift lever just freely moved! And I knew exactly what it was…

So I first grabbed a zip tie and went under the Jeep and used it to reattach the linkage so I could at least fix in my own driveway, then once home put on the new bushing. Wow, to think I was in some isolated places in South Dakota, Wyoming and Colorado, and it waited until the day after I returned home to break! I am rather surprised that Jeep used such a weak plastic part for such a commonly used function of being able to put the Jeep in and out of gear!

Here is the old and new bushing (part #68137495AA). I also put on another zip tie to further strengthen the connection point.

Other then this, I did experience some damage to my right front flare (rubbed a tree). I was actually surprised how well the stock Rubicon flare bended without causing sheet metal damage. Of course it cracked the paint. Well before this recent trip, I was actually thinking to myself that my painted flares were looking scratched up and could use repainting. But I'll have to think about if I should repaint them (which I would have a shop paint them again being clear coated) or is it time to replace them with flat flares and go to larger tires? My MT/Rs are starting to wear down... Hum?

Here I am just last week on an isolated trail running through the woods in the South Dakota Black Hills. And the trailer followed along great! It was awesome!

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As said, I had been debating if I should take the opportunity with damaging a flare to upgrade to flat flares, and then move up to 35" tires. But that would require other upgrades (costs!), and I do really like the look of stock flares and especially these Rubicon flares.

So I had a local auto body shop repaint them. Surprisingly they've held up pretty well over the last 8 years (the front sides of the rear flares were chipped up a bit, and other scratches), and it's not that much of an expense to have them repainted on occasion as they easily come off. I have thought about having them body colored matched, which I like with other Jeep colors, but I've never been a fan of that with flame red as that's too much red, so they're again black and clear coated.

My Jeep also has a random collection of black paints, plus the front Savvy bumper which I originally painted with a flat black rattle can, which I had several times touched up. It always looked pretty rough, so I had the shop also remove it and as well paint it black and clear coat it. Once the paint cures, they gave me the name of another shop to talk to about covering it with a clear bra. I think it looks really sharp, but I'm not sure what Mr. Blaine would think of it?! (haha)

Next year, some potential other upgrades to make:
  • I've always liked my Eagle alloy wheels, however, they are not clear coated and a pain in the *** to buff. This fall I took a super fine steel wool to them and then buffed, but they'll never look as good as they did when new. I've found some similar wheels that are clear coated, and if I do that, I may move up to 33" tires.
  • Remove the sliders and repaint them as they're chipped and scratched. I may have them professionally sprayed with bed liner to match my trailer instead of my home job?
  • I have some heat shield material to install under the rear carpet as the bottom of my ice cooler gets warm on long trips.
  • I'm looking at installing a rear fridge slide for my cooler, or possibly to move up to a fridge/freezer. (If so, I'd also need to install a dual battery setup, and raise up the rear rack by about 3" as I'm looking at a SnoMaster 42?)

I know it's shiny since I wax it (Zaino actually), which I get laughed at over. :thumbsup: The original, thin paint is actually not as good as it looks as it has its chips and scratches. :D

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So a few weekends ago I spent a day and a half polishing my Jeep. As far as the newly painted flares, I still think, "What was I thinking painting them black with clear coat?!" They'll never again look this good as they now do until their again repainted. However, they lasted pretty well over the last 9-10 years with getting peppered with dirt and mud before I finally cracked the paint on one flare last summer.

New Rear Slide Installed!

In an effort to continue to fine tune my camping setup, my biggest complaint has been dealing with my 50 qt. cooler, as it sits in the back of my Jeep under the rack. While on the road, in order to access or drain it, I have to pull it completely out, then shove it back in. Plus while braking, it tended to slide forward and hit the back of my seat. Then while camping, it would often sit in the dirt, and then I'd have to put it away at night. Just too much handling required...

So since Fall, I've been thinking about installing a rear slide, and as I mentioned, possibly moving up to a fridge/freezer. Also, on long trips, I noticed that with the cooler sitting just on the carpet, that its bottom was warm to the touch from the heat coming off of the tub, which I also needed to deal with that issue.

Last January I settled on a heavy duty slide made by Tembo Tusk. It's super nice! Since then, I've spent a lot of time thinking about how I was going to mount it, and in order to not drill new holes in the tub, and in talking with the owner of Tembo Tusk for advice, I decided to build a false floor. This was my first sketch (and a drunken one at that!) on how I this was going to set up the slide! After all, it is all about having cold beer in the back of a Jeep...

To help deal with the heat issue, I bought a roll of heat-shield, and cut a square piece that I slid under the carpet. Hopefully, that will help.

I also found four heavy duty Z brackets, which took A LOT of searching, that would use the same bolts and holes that the rear seat brackets use, and got them installed, ready for the floor to mount to. (I haven't had the rear seat in the Jeep for some time with the rear rack.)

Next, I took a board that is 31" x 28", drilled holes to match where the Z brackets would attach, and coated the board with a spray on bed liner. I carefully, carefully measured and remeasured to make sure that the holes were right on, including for how the slide mounts to the false floor and that everything fit around it (like the tailgate closes). I took multiple trips to Lowes in search of the right bolts for everything. As far as the false floor, I have it spaced a few inches from each side of the tub so that I could easy access the Z brackets' bolts, for both attaching it, and incase I want to later remove it. The cooler does now sit a little more in the center then it use to, but that's okay as my wife and I each travel with a duffle bag, which they'll still fit next to the cooler.

The bolts for the slide, to attach to the false floor.

And it worked out! The slide works great! I did test to make sure that the floor can take a loaded cooler, and everything seems solid. The floor is completely level, as I used boards under the top board to strengthen how it sits on the carpet. I may fine tune it some, but as said I think it's all solid. I certainly don't plan on sitting on the slide and/or jumping on it anyway.

As far as my cooler, the door opens the wrong way (due to the drain plug), but that's not a big deal, plus as I said, I more than likely will get the Snomaster fridge/freezer, which its lid opens on the short side. Also, my rack that hangs above may now be a bit too low with the cooler, and will hang too low for the fridge, so I am going to have to raise the height of the rack by about 3 inches (I'll just cut down the arms that it hangs from).

This really will make a nice improvement!

As far as setup for the fridge/freezer, in my trailer, I already have an auxiliary battery on an isolator that I could move to the back of my Jeep for power. I think long term, it would be better to get a dual battery tray in the front of my Jeep. But we'll see… More to ponder!
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^Thanks! It's been a fun project, and most useful.

I was actually going to put the slide on the other side, but I then went with putting it behind the passenger. On our trips, my trailer is usually attached, so we tend to stand on the handle side of the tailgate since the trailer's tongue is in the center. This also leaves our access to our personal gear easier to grab being behind the driver's seat. Access to the cooler is still good enough, but as said, more than likely I'll move up to a fridge, which the one I want opens on a short side.
First, I recently removed the Drop Kick Slyders, and had them coated with Linex. For those of you that have looked at my trailer thread, I really like Linex! About nothing sticks to it and its held up great. As far as the slyders, they had been powder coated, and then I had applied a spray on bed liner, and then a top black spraypaint. Over the last 8 years, they held up okay, but have gotten chipped, scratched and had a couple of rust spots start up. They do a decent job at catching mud, rocks, etc., from the front tires over ending up on the side of the Jeep, plus my wife uses them as a step. I realize that they drop down and eat clearance, but they're really well built, and being originally designed for stock TJ Rubicon rockers, they do their job.

As far as the Linex, I did not have a good experience with the shop that sprayed my trailer, so I found another shop for these, and they look great!! I should have done this from the start, but back then I didn't know about Linex.

I'll install them back on soon, as they just bolt around the frame with clamps.

Next! Now that I have the rear slide, I wasn't for sure that I was going to buy a fridge/freezer, however thanks to a bonus from work, I went ahead and ordered the Snomaster 42SS. It happened to show up this afternoon, and wow... to think... no more ice! I'm use to having a 50 qt. cooler which was always at least half full of ice (and water) and this is equivalent to about a 43 qt. cooler.

Last weekend, I went by where I store my trailer and pulled out the trailer's Bluetop battery box. I honestly didn't use the battery that much. We'd usually charge our iPhones, etc., in the Jeep while on the road, and at night, it was either a campfire or go to bed, so what did I really need the battery for? So, I've added a 12-volt connector to the battery for the fridge, which will for now get strapped down in the back of my Jeep. The battery does have an isolator on it, so I'll run wiring to it so that it can charge while on the road. At this moment, the fridge is running off of the battery as I'm interested to know how long this 50 amp battery will power the fridge?

I'll do a review of the Snomaster later, but overall, very cool! The first two comments that I've received about the fridge were, first from my wife, "Yeah, those $2.50 bags of ice really add up. Totally worth the $1k." And from my neighbor who just returned from a muzzle loader competition shoot, "Glamping is it?" :rofl:
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Today I rehung that back rack over the Snomaster. The rack hung down too low for the fridge, so I removed the front side arms, shortened them by two inches and drilled new holes. Now the fridge just barely clears the rack by a finger! The rack is really nice having for lose stuff, like jackets, etc., so I still wanted to have it.

For an update on the Snomaster... I ran it off the 50 amp Bluetop battery for 25 hours, and it took the battery from 12.6v to 11.4v. Of course, I realize that battery usage will depend on a lot of factors, but that should certainly work to power the fridge overnight while camping.

And I celebrated a successful weekend with an ice cold Yuengling from the Snomaster! :cheers2:

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Although I already had an isolator on the auxiliary (Bluetop) battery that I put in the back of my Jeep, I still needed to hook it up to the main battery, and I also decided to upgrade to National Luma's split charger kit, which includes another dual-battery isolator and a controller/monitor. This kit comes with everything most guys need, however with having a winch as I do, the instructions recommend to upgrade to larger battery cable, which I used 1/0 AWG 0 gauge.

The instructions indicate that the isolator is typically installed under the hood. I have a Diehard Platinum battery, but without making a serious modification, the only place I could find to mount the isolator was behind the battery, but then to get access to it in the future, I'd have to remove the heavy *** Group 31 battery.

So, I ended up putting the isolator in the battery box with the auxiliary battery. Which seems to me, like it is a better place so it is not subjected to engine heat, water and dirt/mud. As far as the auxiliary battery, I have it well secured in front of the Snomaster fridge as it fits right behind the passenger seat. The battery cables run through the firewall, and along the side of the tub, all neatly tied down.

The kit's manual is located here: Manual 2015.pdf
More info:

The only down fall is that the isolator's solenoid, along with the controller does continue to draw power when the vehicle is turned off. However, the controller itself can be turned off. This can be an issue for vehicles that are parked more often than not, however in my case, I'm already managing power as I'm keeping my Snomaster plugged into to AC power when my Jeep is parked in my garage as I'm using it as a "garage fridge" for ice cold beverages. :D If my Jeep sits long enough, I'll either hook up a battery tender or unhook the main.

As far as using the split charger, it works great! I originally did the install two weekends ago and have been using it, but today I did a little refinement and in better tying down the cables and redoing several connections.

So, after my Jeep starts, after several minutes, the isolator opens and allows power to flow to the auxiliary battery to charge it. In this picture, this shows the controller when my Jeep is not running and the condition of both batteries. The monitor also has an alarm that sounds should either battery fall into the red zone. Also, if the main battery were to die, the auxiliary can be used as the start battery.

In this picture, the controller shows both batteries charging with the vehicle running.

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Using Zaino

Love the sine on the Jeep! do you mind telling me what this Zaino stuff is? I keep reading about it, is it simply a certain brand of Wax, lol?
Hi! Zaino's polishes are actually polymer sealants, not wax. They last longer, and are easier to apply and buff, minus the multiple step process, but I typically only apply it every other year as my TJ is garage kept, and I don't run it through commercial car washes that use harsh soaps. For a daily driver, I'd go through the process once a year.

The process is that after you wash with something like Dawn (which removes wax and oils), you then use their Z18 clay bar, which removes containments on the clear coat, then you use two polishes (Z5 and then Z2), and then finally the Z6 gloss enhancer. They also sell a mild soap that you use for all future washing (Dawn is only used before the clay bar process). They sell a kit HERE that I'd recommend and you'll get four uses out of the clay bar and polishes (the Z7 soap is concentrated, but depends on how often you wash to how much you'll get out of the bottle). I don't use the Flash cure in the kit, but you can either get it or order the other products without it for a little less money. I'd also recommend to also buy a couple of their applicators (pads) and a set of their really nice towels, which all totals about $115.

With taking your time and allowing each coat of the Z5 and Z2 polishes to dry for an hour before buffing each, I'd allow 4-5 hours total.

Honestly, the 12-year-old paint on my TJ, and the wife's KJ, look great and I'd say shine more then they did when we bought them. I also find that bug, road tar and mud just wash off the paint easier. Hope that helps, and be sure to look at the pictures on the Zaino website! It's okay to drive a shiny Jeep. :D
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New Batteries, Wheels and Tires

Just last Wednesday evening, I ordered two new Odyssey AGM batteries (group 34) from Quadratec, which showed up yesterday. I had a DieHard P2 (group 31) as my starter, and a Bluetop as my auxiliary battery, which were both showing age. With an upcoming trip to Overland Expo East next month and that I'll be living out of the my SnoMaster fridge for the event, I decided to get these new batteries. They're identical, except that one (on left) has extra auxiliary terminals, which is what my fridge hooks up to. Also, this battery has more amp hours over the Bluetop.

Also, about a month ago, I had my friends at Sunfire Off-Road install new MT/Rs, which I stepped up a size to 285/75 (33") on Mickey Thompson Classic III 16x8 wheels. I debated trying another tire, but I've been happy and knew what to expect, so I went again with MT/Rs.

As far the new wheels, I again wanted polished aluminum over black. I'm not a fan of red Jeeps with too much black. I'll have to take care of these better then my previous set of wheels. What I had, Eagle alloys, were made in the USA, the polishing was excellent, but unfortunately are no longer made. The Mickey's are made in China, and the polishing is subpar. As far as backspacing, the Mickey's, being 16x8" have more (4.5" vs. 3.25"), so they're more tucked in, which I do like! I'll have to put more effort into keeping these wheels polished. :D

And I washed the Jeep today for pics:

LATER: Camping at 2018 Overland Expo East where the fields turned to mud, mud, and then more mud. (See, she does get dirty.)

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Nothing new here as far as the build, but I recently returned from the latest trip that was just over 4,000 miles. It started out that I was invited as a reader for FourWheeler magazine's first Overland Adventure through Arizona, along with attending Expo West with other readers, their staff, and sponsors. I have a trip review here with photos, but I thought I'd add a few to this thread as well.

I do have also say that my favorite Jeep mod for travel is the fridge! We spent 16 days living out of the Jeep, and we always had cold water and adult beverages, with no ice required! The fridge also makes for a handy shelf for making sandwiches. :D

Camping at Alstrom Point, Utah (above Lake Powell). This is why I built my Jeep.

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Wow, 16 day 4000 mile trip in a TJ?!? Sounds like an epic trip! Even more impressive that you're willing to drive a TJ from Indy all the way down to the South West while pulling a trailer. I love my TJ but not sure I would enjoy all that highway mileage behind its wheel!
It was epic, and just what I built the Jeep to do! Honestly, the Jeep drives great. It's very stable and the trailer tows perfectly, so much so that my wife helps drive. We keep the mph to 70 on the highway, but it could do 80 (just don't need to push it!). Off-road, the trailer with having leaf springs and shocks, it follows right along.

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