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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been on the forum for a while scoping out different builds seeing what I like. Yesterday found a great deal about 3 hours from home. 2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 6 Speed. Advertised for 17,400. Talked them down to 16,400. It was at a Toyota dealership with only 61,000 miles. Been working full time saving up money. Sold my ford ranger and Toyota corolla and bought this outright. No Payments ! Now time to save up money and start modding. Already came with a Pro Comp lift. Unsure on size yet. From southern Maryland. So KevKaos and AngryTj count me in for RC Trips ! ! So excited. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Put a coat of wax on the hood today after these pics. Sporting the temp tags for about another week. Looking into A to Z rocker guards with a round tube step. Those or the same design but from currie. What do you all think about going from 31's straight to 35's? It has a pro comp lift already on it. Need to research if it is 3 or 4 inch. Either way. What all would it entail? 1" BL? 1" MML? Quigley or Tom Woods Driveshaft? Do a tummy tuck while I'm at it? Thoughts? Advice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Read in other build threads about the cost difference if buying tires in sizes 315/75 or 35's. Which is cheaper? Also seen about the 15x8 vs 15x10 argument. What do you guys think? And back spacing. 4"?

My plan I guess is 1" BL, 1" MML, High clearance skid, and throw on 35's.
 

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Purchasing tires for a 16" rim, which your rig already has, as oppossed to a 15" rim is a hell of a lot more expensive. I also found myself in this quandry. I like your idea on the setup. Will keep checking in for updates!
 

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doing the tuck is going to involve more. if you already have a lift and you add the tuck, thats moving the drivetrain up to another 2.5 inches (+ or - depending on which tuck you get). you're now going to be looking at adding a double cardan shaft (possible MML and or lo pro mount) and at least some adjustable rear upper control arms. adding in the body lift, i would recommend getting a novak cable shifter for your tcase. maybe not needed (will probably need at least a shifter relocation bracket, though im not familiar with everything the rubicon needs). going to 35's is also going to need some steering and braking upgrades depending on your wheeling style. search the forum some more, i cant shed as much light on this as i dont run 35's. looks good though! if you want to get rid of those rock sliders for some a to z ones, im looking for some rubi sliders!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Changed engine oil over to royal purple synthetic. Transmission oil to redline MTL and it shifts so much smoother. Took out the stock headlights and put in sylvania. So much better. Ordering a rampage frameless soft top shortly. Went to dinner after that and parked next to this JK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
looks good man :thumbsup:

i'm definitely torn on what looks better, the jk's or tj's
Thanks. Before I got it I was in that dilemma too. Just looked at the price difference, the JKs are bigger, the new V6's arent as reliable as the Straight 6, and most parts are cheaper for the TJs than JKs. Sold it for me.
 

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yeah i definitely like the added size of the jk's. instead of going straight for 35's take a look into on what it takes to do a tummy tuck. automatically right off the bat, the added 2.5 inches of clearance is the same as what it would take you with tires that are 5 inches taller. plus just about everything it takes to do a tuck, you would have to do to properly run a lift to clear the larger tires (besides doing something like high lining the fenders) just IMHO (plus youve already got a nice sized lift it looks like up against that jk)
 

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Pick your tire size of choice and build around that. If you want 35's get 35's. Most people dont buy 35 and say oh I wish I had bought smaller tires. On the other hand I have heard many times after buying 33, oh I wish I had got bigger tires.

35's and 6 speed will be do-able on the road and not really that bad. Is it the perfect combo? Probably not. Off-road 35's and stock 4.10 with 4:1 TC is a great combo. You will definatly need spacers if you want to run Rubi wheels. I slightly rub the front frame with 3.25" BS and 35's on 4" lift. I would upgrade axle shafts with 35's also. I run the UCF 2" deep skid, lopro mount, no BL, and Tatton's CV shaft. Linkage was a simple fix that you should not worry about.
 

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I'm torn in what direction to go. Want 35's but money us tight of course and don't want to have to start messing with all sorts of linkages with the BL. Might just stick on 33's and work up to 35's over time. Had the doors off yesterday.
I run 35's 4" of suspension lift, tube fenders and no BL. A BL is not required for 35's. Although it is a cheap way to get an extra 1"-1.5" of clearance. Just put together a plan on how you want to build your Jeep. You can then figure out which things can be done in the meantime while you build your jeep to handle 35's in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
bmosing said:
I run 35's 4" of suspension lift, tube fenders and no BL. A BL is not required for 35's. Although it is a cheap way to get an extra 1"-1.5" of clearance. Just put together a plan on how you want to build your Jeep. You can then figure out which things can be done in the meantime while you build your jeep to handle 35's in the future.
Thank you guys for all the help. I know tube fenders give you a lot more clearance. I don't think I want to alter the look of my jeep that much. How much more clearance do flat fenders give?
 
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