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dealer quoted me $200 as well. gonna see what the independent shop quotes. the owner actually suggested just replacing the rubber lines but i am going with the full line replacement. now that i've seen this thread i kinda wish i hadn't but oh well, they already have the part waiting.
 

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I havent done this fix yet but im heading that way. My jeep does not have a transmission dip stick so ive worried about it because i figure once i undo those lines from the cooler there is no turning back. So my biggest question is since the car is not running, once i disconnect the lines how much fluid am I going to lose. and not just from the disconnected line but through the whole thing as im cutting the crimp fittings and what not. Also does anyone have a pic of them disconnecting the lines without the tool and if you did use a tool where do you get it for the best price.
 

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I havent done this fix yet but im heading that way. My jeep does not have a transmission dip stick so ive worried about it because i figure once i undo those lines from the cooler there is no turning back. So my biggest question is since the car is not running, once i disconnect the lines how much fluid am I going to lose. and not just from the disconnected line but through the whole thing as im cutting the crimp fittings and what not.
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If you let it set for 2-3 hours before you open it up, you won't loose hardly any fluid, it slowly drains back into the trany pan.
 

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Well, my 2005 WK 4.7L just developed this problem. Internet to the rescue!

I'm going to try the cut & clamp method everyone else has done.

Not sure how fast it's leaking. I just noticed maybe a tablespoon on ATF on the floor tonight. We'll see if it drips out more overnight. I told my wife to look under the Jeep during the day when she's out drivign around for work to see if it leaks a bunch. ATF level was still good though, so I think I can put off the project until the weekend at least. :D
 

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Just got done swapping out one of the two lines. So far, no leaks (after a test drive around the block).

I surgically removed the front fitting with my Dremel tool, but just used a tubing cutter for the rear part. As you can see, not too much ATF spilled out (there was probably half as much on the floor as well.)



Here is the front of the hose installed:



and the rear:



Hopefully it doesn't leak, because I really don't feel like doing the other one in a 28°F garage. :chilly:
 

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I just noticed mine leaking when I was changing the plugs today. Just one of the lines is leaking.. If you look down from the hood its the right one that has the problem on mine. so im gonna tackle this next weekend.. My ZJ does the same. but both lines leak.. I had the line replaced about 4 years ago with the radiator but it started leaking again.. Ive pretty much got a routine down on when to check and add on the ZJ.. but the WK seems alot easier to replace the rubber lines then the ZJ. so instead of keep adding fluid like my ZJ im going to replace these.
 

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for those who have done the fix im about to do it and wondered where is the best place to make the cut. I dont have a dremel or oscillating tool I do have tubing cutter so i cant get right at the crimp. where would/did you cut?
I did my cut where you have it labeled "3". And again right at the back of the next crimp. I got an oscillating tool at Harbor Freight for 15 bucks. Cheap. And well worth it to do this job quickly.
 

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I didnt think about harbor freight and the closest is 45 min away. I went ahead and did the fix however I cut at cut num 2 and gave the hose a little enough bend to not touch anything and not kink so hopefully that will work if not I might try something else
 
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