[wkorbust]

I noticed a small residue under my jeep when I was re-greasing my sway bar bushings and traced it to the transmission cooler lines. I've ordered the part from moparpartsamerica.com, but the dealer (stealer?) said they wanted $550 for parts and labor. I didn't tell them I would be have my own part, but given that, they may object to a part bought from another dealer. Their price includes refilling the transmission fluid.

I've seen other members get quotes for $250 at best so my question is...how big of a project is it to change the lines myself? $550 seems a bit unreasonable and I'm not new to being under my jeep.

 

[Lifted_up]

I noticed a small residue under my jeep when I was re-greasing my sway bar bushings and traced it to the transmission cooler lines. I've ordered the part from moparpartsamerica.com, but the dealer (stealer?) said they wanted $550 for parts and labor. I didn't tell them I would be have my own part, but given that, they may object to a part bought from another dealer. Their price includes refilling the transmission fluid.

I've seen other members get quotes for $250 at best so my question is...how big of a project is it to change the lines myself? $550 seems a bit unreasonable and I'm not new to being under my jeep.

The clips that secure the trans cooler line connections can be taken off with a tool with a pointed tip. I unbolted part of the exhaust just after the cats to make some room and then un did the clips at both ends of the lines. The clips can be reused and you really don't need a special tool to remove them but be careful not to lose the clips if you are using them again. The hardest part is trying to remove the old trans cooler lines by snaking them out and then trying to snake the new ones in. It helps to have an extra pair of hands. Took me a couple of hours with the help of my little brother.

 

[Acidcold]

The clips that secure the trans cooler line connections can be taken off with a tool with a pointed tip. I unbolted part of the exhaust just after the cats to make some room and then un did the clips at both ends of the lines. The clips can be reused and you really don't need a special tool to remove them but be careful not to lose the clips if you are using them again. The hardest part is trying to remove the old trans cooler lines by snaking them out and then trying to snake the new ones in. It helps to have an extra pair of hands. Took me a couple of hours with the help of my little brother.

Would it be better to cut a section of the old line since it's no longer needed? I will be doing this in the spring time on my 4.7.

 

[jayl00p]

I picked mine up today from having the trans cooler lines replaced. Total bill was $396.50. Here's the breakdown:
Parts:$104.00
Labor: 4.5 hrs @65.00/hr=$292.50

I would have done it myself, but with a busy job and a little one I just couldnt make the time. Personally, I think 4.5 hours for a specialty shop named "Just Jeeps" is way too long. How many labor hours were you qouted?

 

[JMorash]

Dont unclipp anything. Cut the fittings that connect the rubber to the metal lines, and just buy 3/8 fuel line and double hose clamp it on. Then top of your tranny with atf 4. Cheap reliable fix. ask anyone that DOESNT WORK AT AN AUTOZONE, about leaky trans cooler lines, its not uncommon.

 

[fitbmxseries1]

Dont unclipp anything. Cut the fittings that connect the rubber to the metal lines, and just buy 3/8 fuel line and double hose clamp it on. Then top of your tranny with atf 4. Cheap reliable fix. ask anyone that DOESNT WORK AT AN AUTOZONE, about leaky trans cooler lines, its not uncommon.

worked on mine so far. :thumbsup:

 

[wkorbust]

I would have done it myself, but with a busy job and a little one I just couldnt make the time. Personally, I think 4.5 hours for a specialty shop named "Just Jeeps" is way too long. How many labor hours were you qouted?

I didn't get an hour breakdown quote, but I can imagine roughly an Arm per hour and a leg every half hour. I've installed the sway bars, exhaust, intake and stillen pads/rotors and do the spring/fall maintenance myself so this shouldn't be too bad of a DIY. My next stop is to call Aamco to see what they would charge to install the parts and top off the fluid, because like you, time is scarce with my job.

Because these lines feed the transmission radiator, if I do it myself, would it be best to drain all the fluid out and then refill fresh or would only a certain amount come out when I disconnect the lines? I have an oil extractor with a tube for ATF fluid that I can drain it all out from the fill tube. My jeep is a relative baby at 20K miles so I'm debating if I should have the pan dropped and filter changed while I'm at it.

 

[Lifted_up]

Would it be better to cut a section of the old line since it's no longer needed? I will be doing this in the spring time on my 4.7.

I'm sorry acid...are you talking about what the others above are saying about adapting the lines instead of replacing with new ones? If you are thinking of just cutting the old lines to get them out easier, that would work. The trouble would still come when you have to get the new ones in. I had to kind of bend and twist the new lines when I put them in but was careful not to damage them. It's not very hard, but it just takes some time and patience.

 

[jstand22]

Dont unclipp anything. Cut the fittings that connect the rubber to the metal lines, and just buy 3/8 fuel line and double hose clamp it on. Then top of your tranny with atf 4. Cheap reliable fix. ask anyone that DOESNT WORK AT AN AUTOZONE, about leaky trans cooler lines, its not uncommon.

Easy with the AutoZone employee bashing...I realize that 97% are idiots. But there are the 3% (including myself) who work there and can actually offer some useful advice.

Anyways, back on topic...Cutting portions hard lines off and using rubber hose and clamps is perfectly fine. It is safe, easy to install, and easy to fix later if it weeps again (the best part is it will only cost you about $10). After all the factory lines have sections of rubber line with crimped fittings (which are never as strong as a well placed hose clamp)... As far as the 4.5 hours from the dealer to replace the lines, that is a little excessive...it's really only a 2-3 hour job, and as people said the hardest part is snaking the new ones in...you can cut the old ones to pieces to get them out in about 10 mins.

 

[fitbmxseries1]

Easy with the AutoZone employee bashing...I realize that 97% are idiots. But there are the 3% (including myself) who work there and can actually offer some useful advice.

too bad you dont work at the one by my place!

 

[wkorbust]

Anyways, back on topic...Cutting portions hard lines off and using rubber hose and clamps is perfectly fine. It is safe, easy to install, and easy to fix later if it weeps again (the best part is it will only cost you about $10). After all the factory lines have sections of rubber line with crimped fittings (which are never as strong as a well placed hose clamp)... As far as the 4.5 hours from the dealer to replace the lines, that is a little excessive...it's really only a 2-3 hour job, and as people said the hardest part is snaking the new ones in...you can cut the old ones to pieces to get them out in about 10 mins.

I already ordered the part from mopar america and it should arrive today or tomorrow. As far as 'next time' and fitting new hose clamps - pics? Because I'm envisioning something like a tube version of a thanksgiving tur-duck-en...

 

[benk71]

Dont unclipp anything. Cut the fittings that connect the rubber to the metal lines, and just buy 3/8 fuel line and double hose clamp it on. Then top of your tranny with atf 4. Cheap reliable fix. ask anyone that DOESNT WORK AT AN AUTOZONE, about leaky trans cooler lines, its not uncommon.

JMorash - It looks like the fittings on the rubber portion are press fit onto the metal part of the line, do you just cut the metal at the fitting?

 

[lagonwagon]

I have this job coming up......opCorn:

 

[jstand22]

JMorash - It looks like the fittings on the rubber portion are press fit onto the metal part of the line, do you just cut the metal at the fitting?

They are crimped fittings; crimped onto the hard mental lines. You cut the metal lines after the crimped fittings, so you cut out the rubber line all together (including the crimped ends).

 

[benk71]

Perfect, thank you!

 

[wkorbust]

Took some pictures of the new part. These might help illustrate what the veterans are talking about when they say cut at the metal part and replace the rubber hose. The part was only $40 bucks, but swapping out just the hose part would save time in routing the hard metal lines, which are not leaking. :tea:

 

[lagonwagon]

Awesome pics! Clears up a lot. Thank you.

 

[08Titan]

I would prefer to go the "cut and clamp" method due to being easier and cheaper but after looking at the pics of the line it doesn't look like there's enough room to get two hose clamps on each end, to double clamp it, before the bends in thehard line.

 

[JMorash]

3/8 fuel line you can route it up past the bends if you want. Clamp one down on the straight, and two up top around the pipe bend. A sure way to know you sealed that mofo on there.

 

[wkorbust]

3/8 fuel line you can route it up past the bends if you want. Clamp one down on the straight, and two up top around the pipe bend. A sure way to know you sealed that mofo on there.

Especially since you need a specialty tool to get that metal line out. Its a 'quick disconnect' design and requires a key to get it out. http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=654&gid=0

Awesome that aamco changed from drop off and pick up same day to drop off and pick up tomorrow. Call me paranoid about leaving my vehicle anywhere overnight. We have had 'issues' in the past with dealers where techs decided to 'borrow' a vehicle and drove home. I'll be doing this myself once I figure out some way to fabricate that tool. Next time I'm clamping.