[finsfree]

Hello, I just purchased my first TJ jeep. I noticed that the stock headlights are a little dull.

What are some of the better headlights out there? I don't need the top of the line, but I want them to work well at night.

Thanks,

 

[m1jeep]

I have a 2000 TJ and had the same issue. I purchased a set of used Jeep JK headlights and silver star bulbs (H13). I was still not happy as they were just slightly better than stock TJ sealed lights. So last week I purchased a set of LED bulbs by Beamtech for under $40. A big improvement!

BEAMTECH H13 LED Bulb, S1 Series 8000LM 50W Quiet No Fan CSP Chips Conversion Kit Fanless Cool White All In One Plug N Play Halogen Replacement Amazon.com

 

[boondaba]

Keep in mind that the Tj wiring harness uses an H4 plug for the headlights, Not H13. (SEE BELOW)
The same bulb m1jeep recommended comes in an H4 variant that will fit directly into the JK housing and connect directly to your TJ harness. H4 LED bulbs (Amazon)

 

[JFM626]

The main reason your headlights are so dull is the voltage drop at the headlights. An upgraded wiring kit with relays for hi and low beam will solve the dull headlight problem and save your mutifunction switch wiring at the same time

 

[LouC]

The least expensive conversion is to use H-4 Hella ECE headlights with an extension harness with relays. Try Ralleylights AKA Susquehanna Motorsports. The OE halogen headlights on the JK are lousy as well.

 

[finsfree]

The main reason your headlights are so dull is the voltage drop at the headlights. An upgraded wiring kit with relays for hi and low beam will solve the dull headlight problem and save your mutifunction switch wiring at the same time

Can you send me the link on this upgraded wiring harness? Also, what's a good bulb to upgrade to as well? Thanks.

 

[JFM626]

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply Give him a call
HeadlightServices

Stay away from the off shore ones. Daniel Stern is very knowledgeable.

 

[LumberjackLloyd]

The Susquehanna motorsports light harness is very well made; I have been running one for quite a few years with no issues. There is a substantial difference in their quality vs what you may find on Amazon or Ebay.

Voltage drop or light duty wiring is part of the issue, but the stock sealed beams suck. There are a lot of good LED options (JL, Trucklite, etc.) however you may end up spending $500-600. Many may tell you that the LED may not be as illuminating as a typical halogen due to the color of the light.

Hella e code housings have an optical defect. When the low beams are aimed properly, the high beams are too high. I highly recommend the Cibie e codes (82440) and even more so the Koito e codes (Toyota PN 90981-01035). The Cibie housings do not come with bulbs, however, the Kotio's do. The Koito's are a noticeable upgrade over the Cibie.

 

[LouC]

With the TJ if the lights don’t use pulse width modulation like the JK your can use a Painless Wiring Relay Harness. I have one in the ZJ and it’s worked great for 20 years with Crown aftermarket H4 headlight housings. The Susquehanna harness is needed for the JK because the JK electrical system uses PWM for the headlights.

 

[Al_S]

I installed the Quadratec Gen II Stealth LED headlamps last year and have been pleased with the lighting.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The main reason your headlights are so dull is the voltage drop at the headlights. An upgraded wiring kit with relays for hi and low beam will solve the dull headlight problem and save your mutifunction switch wiring at the same time

Not really, the wiring gauge installed by the factory for the factory headlight is more than up to handling the current drawn by the factory 55 watt bulbs without a significant voltage drop across it. You can look up the wiring gauge, do the math on amperes drawn by a 55 watt headlight and see that I'm correct with that amperage being easily handled by the stock wiring gauge. Many times a dimmer headlight(s) are from nothing but a corroded or dirty connection at the headlight(!). Upgraded wiring kits with a relay and heavier gauge wiring is only needed for higher than stock wattage ratings which are rarely installed now since LED headlights became available. I installed such a kit when I was running 90/110 watt headlights but that's the only reason I did.

 

[Jonny Jeep]

When new the stock wiring is fine for 60/55W bulbs that we have on exports. When the wiring ages it isn't so good.

Before I eventually swapped to LED headlamps, I checked the voltage to my headlamps (with new connectors fitted) and with the engine running I was getting only 11.8V at the headlamps. That was a full two volts less than the voltage at the battery. I made up a harness using relays to run fresh wire from the PDC to the headlamps. Doing that gave me 13.8V at the headlamps, which made the headlamps noticeably brighter.

Being in the UK my TJ came with ECE H4 headlamps from the factory. I've used several different bulbs over the years. The best were PIAA Xtreme White from around 2002ish. After that PIAA went really expensive and they seemed to change the range regularly, the next set of PIAA bulbs didn't seem as good so I never used them after that set was replaced.

The last set of bulbs I had before switching to LEDs were Osram Nightbreaker Ultimate They were as good as the first PIAAs I used and a lot cheaper. I think the latest Nightbreaker bulbs are called Laser, but whatever the brightest Nightbreaker bulbs are now is what I would go for if going back to bulbs for any reason.

Using decent bulbs I've never needed more than the standard wattage H4 bulbs. With the standard wattage PIAA and Nightbreaker bulbs I've had to go from hi to low beam on unlit roads in the past, as there was too much light coming back at me from reflective road signs.

 

[LouC]

Well my experience is more with the ZJ than the TJ, but the need for the relay harness is not just the gauge of the wiring, it is the voltage drop because of the length of the current flow path, from the main fuse box, to the dash wiring/switch, then back to the headlights, all the current for the lights has to pass through the headlight switch. On our ZJ when it was only 2 years old I was getting 11.8V at the headlamps as well. I put in a set of Crown aftermarket H-4 housings and a Painless Wiring relay harness (this is about 20 years ago) and it's still working well.

 

[TheBoogieman]

My $50 LED headlights made a HUGE difference from the stock "candle bright" headlights.
p.s. My LED driving lights are even brighter.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Well my experience is more with the ZJ than the TJ, but the need for the relay harness is not just the gauge of the wiring, it is the voltage drop because of the length of the current flow path, from the main fuse box, to the dash wiring/switch, then back to the headlights, all the current for the lights has to pass through the headlight switch. On our ZJ when it was only 2 years old I was getting 11.8V at the headlamps as well. I put in a set of Crown aftermarket H-4 housings and a Painless Wiring relay harness (this is about 20 years ago) and it's still working well.

I did the harness upgrade on my XJ and it made a big difference with the stock headlights.

 

[bruinjeeper]

I agree with The Boog.

On two fronts.

Harness upgrade on my YJ with stock lights did wonders, for free.

I added H4 drop in upgrades Delta Lightforce... even better.

I felt left out in the mall parking lot so I picked up some LEDs for $60 on Chynuhzon. And WHOA.... I can't even go back.

In fact had to change to LED bulbs on my Dodge Journey because I couldn't take halogens any longer.

To each their own... just my .02