2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

2002 WJ Battery Cable Replacement

Decided it was time to replace the battery cables as part of the dual battery mod. Discovered that my factory cables were still in very good condition. The battery terminals were showing lots of wear though, especially the negative terminal which has been removed numerous times due to past service.

Factory cables are 6awg, this mod upgraded them to 2awg which will be enough to handle a high capacity alternator should that be needed in the future. (Edit: it was not ... I needed to upgrade to 0awg for the Mechman 240A. whoops). The whole procedure sounds easy enough, but I did not really know what I would find when I started pulling the wiring harness apart, so this was also a learning experience for me. There are probably others out there that are curious as well, so I'm writing it up here.

I purchased a new set of cables from JeepCables.com. Most of them were too long. I considered shortening the cables and installing new ring lugs, but in the end I just stuffed most of the excess cable behind the headlight; not a great solution but it worked.

Power Wires (red)
There are three main power wires that I replaced. The first runs from the alternator runs directly to the PDC and has a fusible link (green) at the PDC connection. The second runs from the PDC to the battery (+) terminal. The third runs from the battery (+) to the starter. Note that I also have a blue power cable that runs from battery (+) to the back of the vehicle where I have a secondary battery.

Ground Wires (black)
The cable package I purchased included three main ground wires. The first runs from the fender next to the PDC to the battery (-) terminal. The second runs from the right side of the engine block to the battery (-). The third runs from the firewall to the cylinder head, but I could not identify which wire the supplier meant for me to replace. I think it might be the G100 ground strap, but not sure.

Step 1) Remove the battery.


The tray needs to come out too.

Step 2) Dissect the wiring harness.
I have always wondered exactly what is in that bundle of wires. It turns out, it's not too mysterious. Two ground wires (black), two power wires (red), one starter solenoid wire (light green), two alternator field coil wires (dark green, white/blue). That's it, that's all we have to worry about.


Removing the loom on the bundle that runs to the PDC reveals where the starter solenoid wire and alternator field coil wires come from, and exposes the fusible link on the alternator power wire.


The wire bundle next to the battery is wrapped with a plastic sleeve. I reused this sleeve as an extra layer of protection when I reassembled the bundle.


Step 3) Starter Cable
Following the power wires, we can see the alternator wires head off to their destination while the starter wires pair off to theirs. The starter bundle has a clamp on it that is mounted to the cylinder head with a 17mm nut. Unmount the bundle. Removed the clamp for re-use on the new bundle.


Removed the wires from the starter. With a little encouragement, the starter bundle was free to slide right out the top. A broken plastic wire tie fell on the ground at this point ... it must have been holding the wire loom at one time, but do not really know where it came from. Remove the loom from the existing bundle to pull out the starter solenoid wire because we are going to need that.

Put a little bend in the replacement lug to match the factory terminal.


Bundled the new cable with the existing solenoid wire using a fresh 1/2-inch plastic loom and wrapped it with non-adhesive vinyl tape. Anchored the ends with adhesive wire loom fabric tape to ensure the wrap stays put. Ran it back down where it came from and hooked it back up to the starter.

Step 4) PDC Cables
Three issues to deal with here. The first is that I needed room for the two ring lugs on the new cables and they did not fit in the existing location. So I got a pair of side cutters and nipped out some plastic from the PDC until there was enough room. Had to bend the lugs to make them fit.


The second is that the fusible link was eliminated in the new cable set; instead, we have an ANL fuse holder. The ANL fuse means that the system can be more easily serviced in the field if needed, but the downside is that we need to find room for it. I have an Optima battery with a footprint that is smaller than factory, so I let it sit on the battery tray.

The third issue is that the cables were all too long. I stuffed the excess behind the headlight rather than shorten and re-terminate the cables. This left a fairly ugly mess, you can see the result.


Step 5) Alternator Cable
Not much to say here, really. Removed the old wire loom and alternator cable. New loom around the new cable and existing field coil wires. Wrapped the loom with the vinyl tape and anchored the ends with adhesive fabric tape.

Step 6) Ground Cable G103
G103 is on the right side of the engine block. The cable runs through the engine mount and up to the battery (-) terminal. Needed to put a small bend in the lug to ensure clearance between the wire loom and the engine block, it can get hot enough to melt plastic down here. There is nothing else to worry about here, really. New loom, new wrap for this cable too.


Step 7) Ground Cable G101
G101 is on the fender next to the PDC. This one would have been a slam dunk if it were not too long. Loom and wrap the cable, route it into position.

Step 8) Bundle It Up
Loomed and wrapped all the cables. After several attempts experimenting with routing locations, I basically ended up with the original routing. To reassemble the bundles, I used zip ties to dry fit it until I got it how I wanted it.


Final wrap with adhesive fabric tape added the (probably unnecessary) plastic sleeve removed from the original bundle.


New "military" style terminals, I really dig these.


So that is that. I am left with this cable ... I contacted the supplier through email, strangely enough he could not tell me exactly where to put that cable. I think it must be the G100 ground cable, what else could it be?

Impressive setup! Where did you get the baby squirrel cage fans?

Anybody happen to know the size of the nut that secures the G100 ground? I misplaced mine, sucks getting old and senile ... (Edit: Found it! Lucky me.)

Follow-up on power cable replacement (see thread) and that "extra" cable ...


I figured it MUST go from that electronics unit mounted on the firewall (what is that thing anyway? -- It's the PCM, G) to the G100 ground next to the airbox on top of the engine. So I set to disassembling things to replace that strap. Turns out that replacement cable is once again longer than the factory original ... too long to really deal with, in fact. The ring terminals are much larger than the original on the firewall end and much smaller on the G100 side, they just do not fit well and would need modification. Finally, the factory original is not very thick, I just cannot imagine that I really need a 2awg wire here, so I am ditching this cable, I do not need it.

(Edit: comparison pic of the factory and replacement cables side-by-side)


But on the downside, I somehow lost the nut that secures the G100 ground (and the starter cable) . Now I need to go find a replacement. Might just go pull one from a donor the next time I am there. (Edit: just restating that I found it wooo)

Suspension Lift Follow-Up ... swap and flip the springs

Note: The handling problem I was trying to solve was eventually traced to the RF UCA bushing on the axle. (See post).

It's been nearly a year since I gave Bella her lift (see post). She has been twitchy in wind and traffic since then. Towing the travel trailer is an unpleasant experience, worse than the factory setup. :thumbdown:

Since then I replaced the rear out-of-spec Addco swaybar with a replacement Addco to eliminate contact points (success :thumbsup, replaced the front (hollow) swaybar with a solid model from a 2004 donor WJ :thumbsup:, and then prematurely declared my handling problems as solved :facepalmanother post).

Then I noticed she was sagging on the left side (see thread). On the day I measured it (2020/10/13), from the ground to the outer fender lip, the RF corner was 7/8" taller than LF, and the RR corner was 6/8" taller than LR. Turns out that the front OME springs have an A/B designation and the "A" spring is supposed to go on the driver side (thanks to @Mattyjm for pointing this out).

So I swapped them L-R on both ends. My rear springs do not have A/B tags but did them anyway. I also cannot tell if there is a top/bottom to these springs, but I flipped both the springs on the (new) right side.

I removed all of the Bilstein's during this process, and happy to report that they all appear to be in good shape. They were all quite difficult to compress during reinstallation using my Armstrong tools :barbell:. All of the spring isolators appear to be in good shape. Perches are solid, slightly rusty ... appears my paint job was not entirely effective.

Found that the front tires are rubbing just a bit. I have never noticed a noise, but the evidence is clear. Got a rub on the LF control arm and fender well, and a minor rub on the forward splash shield on both front corners:




I am surprised at the rub on the control arm, at full wheel lock there seems to be enough room under there but clearly there is not ... I think this points to axle not centered under the front, so I am going to shorten the track bar a couple turns and see if that fixes it. Really should have done that while I was swapping the springs, but did not happen.

On the rear, the springs are definitely different lengths. The difference is not huge, did not bother to measure, but now the longer one is on the left side. I thought they were the same length when I installed them ... Anyway, I did a side-by-side comparison and put a level across the top to show the difference:


Closing out this particular chapter with more pics of the front springs because there just are not enough pics in this post yet

LF at full droop (so blurry)


LF under load


RF at full droop


RF under load


Have driven it three times since the swap ... maybe better? Holding the jury this time until after my next towing excursion.

G

Whip Flag / CB Antenna Mount

When roaming on the sand highway at Oceano Dunes OHV State Park (sometimes just called Pismo Beach, which is right next door), a whip flag is required for visibility. while the OHV park is still closed due to CORVID, I optimistically installed a more permanent pair of whip flag mounts in anticipation of the day when it reopens. I read about this idea somewhere on this forum I think, sorry I cannot remember who did it first, but here's what I did. Buckle up, here we go.

Parts List

• Firestik SS-184 Dodge Ram Hood Antenna Mount (Amazon)(Firestik.com)
• Tusk Quick Release 1/4" Pole Holder (Link)

This is what I installed. Firestik "stainless" steel. I guess it's stainless enough. Like so:


And I installed it above the tailight, here. You'll see.


1) Remove taillight
First, remove the phillips screws


Then reach in and grab the back of the housing. Hug it to your hip and give it a big yank straight back to pull it out of the mount.


2) Drill pilot holes and mount the bracket
Test fit the bracket, find where it fits best, and mark the holes.


Center punch the marks and drill out with 7/64" bit.


Mount the bracket. Not shown but very recommended: coat the top of the bracket with black RTV silicone to keep the water out. This bracket will ramp water down to the screws and rust out the mount if you do not. So seal it before you mount it. I just did this today.


3) Make it fit and put the light back in
Okay so the lights do not quite clear the panhead screws. So get a round file and clean out a bit of plastic from the top of the housing.


But I still needed more room to remount the light, so I round-filed a little extra room on the top mount.


And now it fits! Woooo


This is what it looks like with a whip flag installed. 'Merica. F**k yeah.


I did one on each side. You know, for balance. Should also mention that the nut/bolt I used that actually holds the flag was purchased elsewhere, from a vendor at Pismo Beach. But I think you can get flag poles that mount right into the Firestick threaded fitting.

Edit (2020/11/05): Replaced the pole nut with a blue quick-release style from Tusk. One on each side.

Happy Jeeping

2002 WJ Grand Cherokee, Headliner Repair

My headliner was starting to peel, I finally got around to trying to fix it. I gave it the old college try, but cannot say it turned out great. Good enough.


1) Remove the sun visors and EVIC.
Sun visors are held on with two T25 screws and a phillips screw. They drop right down ... then disconnect the electrical. The EVIC is held up with one phillips screw and two spring clips. Remove the screw, grab the sides and pull straight down ... then disconnect the electrical. It is not that difficult, so no pictures this time.

2) Remove the grab handles and trim panel
This thing


Pull the rubber plugs out of the handle and remove the 7/32" screws.


The trim panel is held in with a spring clip. It is right in the middle of the panel, see here.


3) Prepare the sagging liner and mask the area
Since it is just a matter of time before the whole headline sags, I decided to prep the entire thing. Peel back what is not yet sagging and tape it up with some blue painter's tape. I did not want the adhesive spray to get on the dash (or anywhere) so I went nuts with protection. Cover everything with a plastic drop cloth.


4) Apply adhesive and reattach
Turns out you only need a light coating of this stuff. Get some on the fabric and the base of the liner.


Let it sit a bit, and then fold the fabric back. It will stick on contact, be careful, get it smooth. Smoother than I did ...


Not very happy with it, but it's better than it was. They cannot all be home runs.

Undercoating

After seeing many posts from the midwest USA Jeep forum contingent where their undercarriage is rotting out from rust, I got to thinking. If I continue beach adventures with Bella, she is likely to get a bunch of saltwater on her belly which could cause some rot. So while the dunes continue to be closed, I figure this is a good time to take protective measures.

I decided to use 3M 3584 Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating. This stuff is kind of expensive, more than $10 per can at the local parts store. I found a six-pack on Amazon for $50, what a deal.

1) Clean
Like any painting job, success depends on preparation: make sure the surface is clean or it will not stick. I used a tub of cleaning wipes from Home Depot to get the gunk off, and called that good enough (hope it is ... so far, so good). This pic is during removal of the gunk above the rear axle and upper control arm:


2) Coat liberally with spray
It will not protect if it is not a complete coat. The label recommends two coats ... Today I removed the heat shield above the exhaust to coat the undercarriage. Kind of difficult to hit this without spraying the pipes so I used a plastic sheet to keep the rubber off the exhaust, who needs that stink.

Cleaned and ready for spray. Mask the bolts so the heat shield can be reinstalled without goo plugging the threads. Area to the left has already been coated and then top-coated with some light blue paint. I figured a light color would help me identify any fluid leaks, should they occur.


After coating:


Also coated the skid plates, this is the rear fuel tank skid.


And this is the rocker panels in progress. Might as well include it here.


This project is till in progress, only about 25% left to coat.

Suspension Lift Follow-Up, Part II

Note: The handling problem I was trying to solve was eventually traced to the RF UCA bushing on the axle. (See post).

Last month I swapped and flipped the springs (see post). Since then I have driven it in many road conditions, and this last weekend I towed my Rpod out to the local Cachuma Lake campground.

Result: yes, handling is much improved. I would not say it is better than stock though, I would rate it about the same, but a bit worse that it was before the lift. I do think it now behaves a bit better in towing conditions.

So I have slightly taller springs, slightly taller tires, tows a bit better, and a suspension that behaves about the same as factory. I think that qualifies as mission accomplished.:woot:

Honestly do not know what the problem was. I had already tried re-torquing the front/rear CAs, so I guess it was the springs. Were they poorly installed? Well I installed them, so maybe that was it. Is it that important for the A spring to go on the left and B on the right? I guess it is ... would have been nice if the supplier told me about that instead of leaving me to guess. At any rate, I think it's as good as can be expected without further control arm investment.

I am not satisfied with the amount of squat I see when I hook up the Rpod. There is a truck scale nearby that I can use whenever I want. Weights are:

• Bella + me = 4700 lbs
• Bella + me + Rpod on the hitch = 5100 lbs
• Bella + me + Rpod = 8400 lbs

That means the Rpod is 3700 lbs and the tongue weight is 400 lbs ... I think that is about where it should be. But she sags in the rear at least 2 inches when I hook up. I do not like it, so I am thinking about air bags to supplement the springs.

Airlift makes a product for the WJ: 60754 (link).

I contacted a local dealer to see if these bags would fit with a 2-inch lift. They said they would find out and let me know ... that was over a week ago. Here I am trying to buy from local business and they hang me out to dry again, looks like I am on my own.

These essentially work as secondary springs. When you need them, add air and they provide more spring rate. When you don't need them, deflate to minimum and they do nothing. Sounds great, except for one thing: more springs without more shocks means more bouncing. Occasionally I hit a bump with the trailer and the whole rig rocks through a few cycles. I do not want to accentuate this condition.

So now I am wondering if there is another shock absorber solution out there for me.

Actually considering trying to math something up to see if I can figure out what I need from my shocks ... but multi-spring systems like this are far from trivial math.

I will probably go the lazy route: just get them and install them without doing any math, see if they work. Unless anybody else has a better idea.