Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

52601 Views 269 Replies 36 Participants Last post by  snobrdrkid07
2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

It seems like build threads are a thing here, so here's mine. Meet Bella.

>>Factory Build Info

Table of Contents:


  1. 2.5" Lift: OME HD Springs & Bilstein 5100 Shocks
  2. Addco 684 Rear Sway Bar
  3. Factory 2004 WJ 30mm Solid Front Sway Bar (no pics)
  4. Core 4x4 Adjustable CAs (stock length)
  5. Ironman 4x4 UCA
  6. Kevin's Offroad Track Bar Bushings
  7. Rubicon Express Front Swaybar Disconnects
  1. Stereo Upgrade 2006: Fosgate Power & Infinity Perfect
  2. Stereo Upgrade 2020: DDIN Kenwood and Backup Camera
  3. Dual Battery and Trailer Charging Port
  4. 2awg Battery and Ground Cable Upgrade
  5. Auxiliary Lighting
  6. Mechman Alternator and 0awg Cable Upgrade
Other & Extras
  1. EBC Brakes (good!) & Synergy Spacers (removed)
  2. Whip Flags: Firestik mounts, Tusk holders
  3. 3M Undercoating
  4. Wolf Vinyl Decal (fight me!)

  1. Rear Upper Control Arm
  2. Rear Lower Control Arm (video)
  3. Front Control Arm Replacement
  4. Ball Joint Replacement
  5. Detroit Axle Control Arm Review

  1. Fuel Injector Connectors
  2. Left Valve Cover Gasket
  3. Right Valve Cover Gasket
  4. Water Pump Replacement
  5. Valve Stem Seals & Lifters
  6. Spark Plug Replacement (video)

Other Stuff
  1. Driver Door Wire Repair
  2. Rear Axle Bearing Replacement
  3. Headliner Repair? -- FAIL
  4. Hood Emblem Replacement

I have had her since July 2002, new to me and the only new vehicle I have ever owned.

Aside from the typical routine maintenance (fluids, filters, tires, shocks, brakes, ...), some of the things I have had to fix over the years. Note: at first I had all of my service done at the dealer or quick lube shops, but after a few bad things happened I started doing it all myself. Well mostly myself. Some jobs I still take to a shop if I feel like it's over my head or I just want somebody else to do it instead.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 30k. Dealer stated the diff was empty. Odd, since they did all the service for me.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 65k. AGAIN!!
  • Right rear TPM sensor replacement. Jiffy Lube smashed the valve stem for me.
  • Passenger side wiper arm replacement. Jiffy Lube strikes again.
  • Power steering hose, I think this was a factory recall?
  • Evap cannister hose leak. Was throwing a trouble code.
  • O2 sensor replacement. Threw a code so I was going to replace them all until I saw how expensive they are, so just did the one.
  • Climate control panel replacement. The A/C would not blow cold air and really had me stumped. Replaced the panel out of desperation and it worked.
  • EVIC overhead module replacement. Display just died. Got one without TPMS capability because I was running BFG E range tires that would constantly trigger high pressure alarms on the highway.
  • Parking brake cable replacement, TWICE. What is this about?
  • Window regulators on front driver & passenger doors
  • Hood, liftgate, & liftglass struts several times
  • Driver door panel replacement due to cracks in the arm rest. Done this twice too and need to do it again.
  • Passenger side power mirror, I suspect a parking lot incident.
  • Thermostat leak, replaced
  • Water pump leak, replaced
  • Radiator leak, replaced (& hoses)
  • Starter motor replacement, solenoid was dying and threatened to strand me.
  • Engine rear main seal replacement
  • Rear axle seals, bearings, pinion seal

Current list of things that need to be fixed:
  • Peeling headliner (failed 09/05/2020)
  • Driver door panel (arm rest)
  • Driver heated seat
  • Heated seat switches, some lights don't work (but the switch does!)
  • Clunks and creaks in the rear end (completed 11/01/2019)
  • Oil seep from valve covers (completed 03/26/2018)
Obviously I am in no hurry to fix these things ...

Here we are exploring the Lost Coast some years ago. We found a remote deserted beach with a fire ring and stopped for lunch.

Follow along with my adventures with Bella on my dedicated thread:
Gman's Adventures with Bella Blue
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 5
101 - 120 of 270 Posts
Jeez, Gman. You must be powering a lighthouse off the coast with that kinda juice!

I bet all the electronics from home make it into the camper while out and about huh? I am that kind of camper as well. I dont sleep well on the ground, and I need a shower no matter where I am. And WIFI and cable TV arent a bad thing either!

Looks like another awesome project. I look forward to the finish.
Jeez, Gman. You must be powering a lighthouse off the coast with that kinda juice!

I bet all the electronics from home make it into the camper while out and about huh? I am that kind of camper as well. I dont sleep well on the ground, and I need a shower no matter where I am. And WIFI and cable TV arent a bad thing either!

Looks like another awesome project. I look forward to the finish.
Actually no, bringing extra electronics is not a high priority for me when camping. The camper is mainly for the bed, and it's great to have your own sink and shower on site, the water heater is an awesome luxury. Added bonus is the propane-fueled tiny refrigerator to store butter, eggs, and fresh veggies ... some things don't keep so well in the ice chest. My particular camper does have a small factory stereo and even a TV. The TV hasn't seen any use yet but I do enjoy my music.

When this project is done, I realistically expect that it won't work like I want it to and that I'll have to do more upgrades but we'll see. I have read that multi-battery systems have a tendency to dump charge from the good battery into the worse battery which tends to kill good batteries. There are available "smart" parts that somehow block battery dumping and only allow charge through to the secondary batteries when the primary is fully charged; I might need one or two of these but I'm going to try it without.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Yes , there are battery isolaters that separate the batteries. I have seena few installed under the hood of trucks with in bed campers. It will allow charging of the battery when engine is running, but will not allow juice to travel back and forth from the two batteries. The camper battery is for camper use only, and the jeep battery is for Jeep only. That way you cant drain the Jeep battery by watching movies all night. They are about the size of one of those Amps you have in your pic. Most camper stores have them.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Have you thought about install an Oil Catch Can set-up?
Oh, I have isolating relays, two of them and plan to use them both.

What's an oil catch can setup and why would I need one? Isn't that what the PCV/CVV system is all about?
Thought I would post my amateur sketch of my revised power system. There have been several revisions but this one is as finalized as it's going to get.
Most of the system is already in: secondary battery, two 200A isolators, two 200A ANL fuses, two fuse blocks with direct feeds from the PDC, two 40A relays, and trailer charging connector. Yesterday discovered that my DPDT switch is unreliable and so need a better one, but it worked well enough to prototype the system and prove it works.

I posted some preview pics in the What Did You Do Today thread, but plan to do a more detailed write-up here when the installs are complete. Still considering where is the best place for the switch and voltmeter ...

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Man, thats intense....your not fooling around. And what did you need all this for again?(not knocking, just curious) You said you arent running alot of electronics in the trailer? Does'nt the trailer have a battery or two of its own?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Man, thats intense....your not fooling around. And what did you need all this for again?(not knocking, just curious) You said you arent running alot of electronics in the trailer? Does'nt the trailer have a battery or two of its own?
I need this for two reasons:

1) The trailer currently has 2 12V batteries on it wired in parallel. I don't use a ton of juice while boondocking and I do have a solar panel to help recharge, but I do end up using more than I generate. When driving down the highway I switch the RV refrigerator from propane over to 12V mode, and it turns out that the factory connectors do not provide enough current to also recharge the trailer in that situation. SO that is where the trailer charging connector comes in, to try to fix that shortcoming.
The wire in the factory 7-pin connector is only a 12 awg and runs through the same relay that powers the cigarette lighter. I am putting in a 4 awg wire that is basically a direct feed from the alternator. If that doesn't solve the problem, nothing will.

2) I have always wanted a dual battery setup so that I can park wherever, open the doors and play the stereo without worrying about killing the battery and getting stranded or needing a jump. I don't do as much tailgating as I used to, but it still happens and the way I will have it wired, all of the amplifiers will run off the secondary battery when the isolator is open so I will not drain the primary battery.

And while I am checking off these two wants, I am adding a couple of extras along the way, like the dual voltmeter, the switch, and the accessory fuse blocks.

I feel like this is a fairly ambitious modification and I keep thinking of the little details that are required to make it all work. Example: I just realized that my plan for providing the switching voltage to the relay that controls the isolators (R2) needs revising. The current plan will close the isolators any time the cig lighter is active (KEY ACC), but what I really want is to only close the isolators when the engine is running (KEY RUN) so now I have to find the right wire for that.

Darn, thought I had it all figured.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Oh boy, sorry to get you thinking to much again....You are gonna be set up for tailgating for sure. I had a thought while reading this about battery drain myself, I had a 12V electric blanket i used in my Semi truck when it was cold out. I never worried about using in my rig, because it had 4 big batteries in it. But this setup would be nice to run accessories like this as well if you ever ended up in the cold. (dont know why you would however, your in the perfect spot now in my opinion-cold equals 50 degrees at night). But maybe a nice 12V coffee pot in the morning, if your ever out messing around without the trailer. Lots of 12v stuff at the truck stops you could use in this Jeep now....
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Oh boy, sorry to get you thinking to much again....You are gonna be set up for tailgating for sure. I had a thought while reading this about battery drain myself, I had a 12V electric blanket i used in my Semi truck when it was cold out. I never worried about using in my rig, because it had 4 big batteries in it. But this setup would be nice to run accessories like this as well if you ever ended up in the cold. (dont know why you would however, your in the perfect spot now in my opinion-cold equals 50 degrees at night). But maybe a nice 12V coffee pot in the morning, if your ever out messing around without the trailer. Lots of 12v stuff at the truck stops you could use in this Jeep now....
No apologies needed ... In fact I should thank you because now I realize it would not have worked right. But that means I need another relay to make sure the batteries are joined on KEY RUN. This is getting out of hand! Think I found a good candidate circuit to tap in the heated seat switch circuit. FSM says the PK/WT wire should only have power on RUN and nothing else critical seems to depend on it so it isn't too scary to mess with.

A 12V coffee pot, eh? Don't tell the missus because then she will want one!

Had to revise my drawing again. Went digital this time, hope it's the last.

Edit: After install I realized that I had some unprotected wires connected to B2. It should have been obvious from looking at the diagram, but I did not see it. So I installed a fuse between B2 and the distribution block. I think I have everything protected now.


See less See more
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: 2
Yeah 12v coffee pot goes well with the 12v crock pot. Put your breakfast hash in when you got to bed, and coffee and breakfast are ready when you wake up! You know you want 'em!
  • Like
Reactions: 1
What is breakfast hash?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Potatoes, bacon, eggs, etc....
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Double Din Stereo Installation, 2002 WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee

WJs with DDIN units installed are nothing new. But while researching the project, I still had a few unknowns to deal with so I hope this write-up provides a complete picture of what the install entails.

Kenwood Excelon DNX696S
Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface
Metra 95-6546B DDIN Jeep Kit
Metra 70-6502 Wire Harness
Replaced: (2) Voxx ACA501D Back-up Camera
(2) Accele RVC1150T Back-up Camera
Crux CUB-15 Universal Bullet Backup Camera
T-Spec V6RCA-201V RCA video cable 20 ft
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel Speaker Wire to RCA Adapter
Hopkins #48625 Mounting Bracket
Hopkins #48435 6 pin Connector
Wire Loom
Heat Shrink Tubing

1) Remove Existing Stereo
Pretty easy, really. Get a flat blade pry tool and slip it between the radio bezel and the dash on the side, next to the air vents. Pry the bezel forward to disengage the spring clips. There are four clips, one on each side and two on the top. Once the bezel is out you can remove the radio. Remove the four Phillips head screws holding the radio in place. Pull it out and disconnect the wiring harnesses and antenna cable. See? Easy.

2) Assemble the Metra DDIN Adapter
Remove the vents from the factory bezel. The vents are plastic-welded at four points. I cut them out with a Dremel, but I have heard it is easier to use a soldering iron to melt the welds. Make your choice.

They fit on the Metra like so:

Mixed up some JB Weld epoxy and tacked it together

Let it sit for at least 24 hours before using.

3) Remove Subdash
Time to do some cutting. I tried using oscillating saw at first, but found that a simple 10-inch hacksaw blade worked best.
The chunk of plastic circled in yellow is going to come out. Start by making the four cuts marked in red.

On the left side, cut through this rather large bit of plastic.

This is what it looks like after cutting

Start cutting at the back, use the edge of the plastic as a guide for the cut. Do the same on the other side.

Ta-da! Won't be needing this anymore.

4) Assemble Wiring Harness
While the epoxy is setting, solder the harness together. Some people just use crimp connectors when connecting the wires ... I would not recommend that. Solder everything and shrink tube it. Include the ASWC-1 steering wheel interface.

There are a bunch of wires included with the ASWC, but only four wires are needed for this job. Red wire goes to switched power, black to ground, brown goes to the SWC input on the Kenwood (light blue wire), pink wire goes to the yellow/violet wire in the factory harness, pin #14. I decided to use a Posi-Tap to splice into this wire. If you have never used one, they look like this:

and they tap into the wire like this:

It isn't soldered, but this connection feels really solid to me so I made an exception.

5) Install the Backup Camera!
(Edit: Replaced with Accele camera 2020/07/10)
I mounted one of the Voxx cameras on the liftgate trim, right above the license plate.

There is a rubber boot right behind the trim. Run the wire through this.

Of course, you will have to remove the interior panel from the liftgate to run the video cable. There are a few screws holding the panel on, plus a bunch of plastic panel anchors. I ran the cable toward the right side, used a bit of loom to protect the wire from sharp edges.

The bit wrapped in blue tape here is where the camera lead attaches to the video cable.

The bit wrapped in blue tape here is where the camera video rca connects to the extension. I used a #10 self-tapping screw to attach the ground to the liftgate, circled in green here.

Run the wire through here (see silver wire) and then through the rubber boot.

Now that it's inside, run the cable behind the trim panels all the way up to the front of the cabin.

I had just enough cable to run it under the carpet along this path. Removed the front seat to do it ...

See? Just enough cable to get up into the radio enclosure.

One more thing, have to run the reverse trigger wire to the backup light circuit. I studied the FSM wiring diagrams to find the right wire. FSM says the circuit is a violet wire with a black stripe. It told me exactly where to find it behind the kick panel behind here

It also told me exactly which pin was supposed to have this wire ... and this is NOT in the right position. But it's got to be the right wire, right? Took a chance, it must be the right wire. And it was.

6) BONUS: Install the Blind Spot Camera!
(Edit: Replaced with Accele camera 2020/07/11)
I was not really planning on this, but since the Kenwood has the capability to run THREE cameras, I figured I might as well install a camera to help me see if there is a vehicle back there next to my camper when I am towing. I decided to mount this camera under the passenger side rearview mirror. I happened to have an old, broken mirror in the garage so I tried a few different spots before deciding where it should go.

Drill a carefully aimed hole through here:

My aim wasn't great, but good enough. It came through here.

Run the wire through the rubber boot. Drill a hole in the door and install a grommet, run the cable through there.

Then through the boot in the door. Had to drill a hole in the white plastic collar to make this happen.

The lead was just long enough for this route. See?

7) Hook It All Up
Okay, got all the wires run up to the radio enclosure. Now just plug it all together. No problem!

That's a lot of wires. Ran the ASWC-1 interface ground wire, and power to both cameras. I tapped one of the new fuse locations in the accessory fuse box I installed for camera power ... but that's a story for another day.

(Edit: Cameras replaced with Accele, see post:
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 4
Obligatory pic of operational head unit after final install with rear view camera on the display; that's my camper back there. I miss the faux burl wood print, going to see about getting some vinyl wrap or something, not sure yet how to proceed there.

Side view camera in it's final position.

And here's what I see out of it. I think it does what I wanted it to, but the picture is awfully bright when going down the road. Will have to see how useful it is in practice.
See less See more
Reserved for upcoming details for the trailer video harness
Dual Battery Installation, 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

My Jeep dream is starting to come together. I present my dual battery setup to keep myself from getting stranded when I park and play the stereo for a couple hours.

It's funny ... I have spent a lot of hours puzzling, planning, and ultimately installing this mod, but when all is said and done it doesn't seem very complicated. Run some power wires and hook them up. Presto chango, now it's all good to go. Somehow it always seems to be harder than it looks. Plus I always have to, you know, do just a little bit more.

For the Jeep:
Trail Gear TGI-301347-KIT Battery Box (Summit)
HDPE 3/8" Plastic Sheet (Amazon)
Fastronix 940-400 Military Spec Battery Terminal Kit (Amazon)
(2) 3/8" 4awg Ancor Tin-plated Copper Marine Grade Ring Lug Terminals (Powerwerx)
(4) 5/16" 4awg Ancor Tin-plated Copper Marine Grade Ring Lug Terminals (Powerwerx)
(2) Cole Hersee 24213 200A Continuous Duty Solenoid (isolating relays) (eBay)
(3) Rockford Fosgate RFFANL Inline Fuse Holder (Amazon)
(3) Rockford Fosgate 200A ANL Fuses (Amazon)
SB120 Anderson Connector Kit, 4awg blue (Powerwerx)
SB120 Environmental Boot, Source (Powerwerx)
Mic Tuning Dual Voltmeter (ebay)
(2) 40A Automotive Relay and Connector Kits (Summit)
+ 4awg Streetwires OFC Power Wire (blue and silver) from my garage
+ DPDT switch, wires, butt connectors, ring terminals, spade terminals, shrink tube, and wire loom from my local electronics shop
For the Trailer:
Fastronix 940-400 Military Spec Battery Terminal Kit (Amazon)
SB120 Anderson Connector Kit, 4awg blue (Powerwerx)
SB120 Environmental Boot, Load (Powerwerx)
SB120 Handle Kit (Powerwerx)
10 ft 4awg Red/Black Bonded Zip Cord with 3/8" Tinned Copper Lugs (Powerwerx)
1 inch plastic wire loom​

Stage 0 is always planning, and for electrical circuits that means there ought to be a wiring diagram somewhere. Sometimes it is just in my head, but for this I needed something better.

1) Run Main Power Line to the Rear
I actually did this a long, long time ago when I installed my amplifiers in the spare tire well. So I do not have many pics of this, but that's okay you'll get the idea. Needed to tap the battery and run a line, so I opted for a dual post design at the time and used a Stinger terminal. In the not-too-distant future I will be replacing my terminals with the military style and then I will remove the side-post tap. But for now, this is where I get power. I used 4-gauge oxygen-free copper wire from StreetWires.

From there, it runs through a 200A ANL fuse, under the coolant overflow reservoir, and through the firewall. I unmounted the PCM from the firewall to move the electronics mounted to the firewall and access the factory grommet. Sprayed a little WD-40 in the grommet and pushed a length of spare Romex-style wire through because it is pretty stiff and easy to push. Then taped the power wire to the Romex and fished it through from inside the cabin.

Ran the wire under the dash over to the middle and under the carpet down the left side of the tunnel, all the way to the back down the middle.

2) Battery Box
Call it a box for want of a better word. This is here to keep the battery from moving around. Used three fairly large stainless steel sheet metal screws and washers to anchor it in place. Where I put these screws, there is no danger of interfering with the fuel tank. I put a 1/8" thick strip of rubber sheet under the box so it would not make noise over bumps, so far so good. Then placed a 3/8" thick sheet of plastic in the bottom of the box so the battery rests on the sheet instead of the screws. Also visible in this picture is one of the ground blocks I installed ages ago for the stereo, now repurposed for the second battery.

3) Isolating Relays
The 200A relays are the key to this whole setup. When the relay is closed (key in the RUN position), then the secondary battery sees a continuous path to the alternator which allows it to charge. When the relay is open, then the secondary battery is independent of the primary and can be used to power whatever auxiliaries I want ... for me, this battery currently runs my amplifiers. I have realized that I need to fuse BOTH ends of the power wire, so yet another ANL fuse holder is on the way and will go where marked in this pic.

I also wanted to run power to my trailer, so I installed another isolator on the other side and fused the run.

Taking a closer look at this relay. I ran a voltmeter tap to both sides of the relay. When the relay is open, the white wire will read the voltage of the trailer batteries and the brown wire will read the voltage of the secondary battery. When the relay is closed, both wires will read the same voltage. In-line mini glass fuses were used to protect these wires from shorts because even though they will not usually be seeing any substantial current, they ARE connected directly to the batteries and must be protected. Yellow wire provides the control voltage to close the relays and the green wire is ground.

I chose to go with a Cole-Hersee continuous duty 200A relay, golf cart style. There are other products available; Stinger makes one, PAC makes one, etc. but they have plastic housings and some people report they break fairly easily when installing the wire terminals, plus the IN/OUT posts are pretty close together which limits the size of the rings you can use. The CH relay has a metal body and the IN/OUT terminals are on opposing sides so there is no problem with ring terminal size.

4) Trailer Connector
Used a step-bit drill to make a big hole and ran the trailer wire through a "waterproof" grommet.

Cut some plastic off the rear bumper.

Installed an Anderson connector with a weatherproof boot. Used a metal framing bracket from the hardware store as a mount. Drilled a hole in the bumper and screwed the ground wire to it.

Also pictured here is the connector I installed for the trailer video camera (a story for another time).

5) Voltmeter and DPDT Switch
Needed some way to provide switching power to the isolating relays. I also wanted to be able to monitor the voltages on the secondary battery and trailer battery on-demand, but did not want the voltmeter to always be on. The only way I could figure to make this work was by using two 40A relays and a DPDT On-Off-On switch.

The first relay (R1) gets always-on +12V from my accessory fuse block to the source pin (p30) and outputs to normally-open pin 87 when the key is in the RUN position. Pin 85 is connected to the heated seat circuit which is only energized on key RUN. Pin 86 goes to ground. Studied the FSM wiring diagrams to find the right wire; it's this white/red one behind the switch.

The second relay power (R2p30) comes from two possible sources: either R1 output on p87, or from pole 2 of the DPDT switch. R2 output goes to normally-closed p87a providing the switching voltage to the battery-isolating relays. Switching voltage for R2 comes from pole 1 of the DPDT switch and is connected to p85. When the switch is OFF, the relay does nothing, it's just a pass-through. When the switch is UP (pole 1 on), the relay activates and shuts down p87a which opens the isolators, disconnecting the secondary (and trailer) batteries. When the switch is DOWN (pole 2 on), it instead provides 12V to R2p30, forcing the isolators to close regardless of the key position. My thought is that this position will allow me to use the secondary battery as a starting battery if the primary is too drained to start (... maybe ... ?).

The other side of the DPDT switch is connected to the ground on the voltmeter. In the OFF position, the voltmeter reads nothing. In either ON position the ground path is connected and the voltmeter powers up. When I am driving down the road, I can flip the switch UP and the voltmeter will show me the voltage of the isolated batteries. When I flip the switch DOWN, I can see the voltage of the combined system.

SO, I had to get the voltage signals from the second isolating relay up to the front. I used a roll of 14-gauge trailer wire for this because I needed 4 conductors with different colors and the trailer wire filled the need nicely. It basically retraces the route of the main power wire (under the carpet, of course).

And here is what it looks like in operation. Unfortunately I have run into some problems mounting it ... hope to get that sorted out soon.

So there it is, the final setup. It's all working exactly as I hoped it would!
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Posted my dual battery installation, see above.
Backup/Blind Spot Camera Replacement

I was not satisfied with the Voxx cameras that I installed. The parking guide lines were a permanent feature; they could not be disabled and were frankly not useful. Especially where the side view blind spot camera was concerned, they were just a useless distraction. And the capper was the flashing "STOP" at the bottom of the screen that would not go away. I contacted Crutchfield technical support to see if they had any advice or info that I had missed, but they agreed those lines and flashing words would not go away.

Then Crutchfield proved once again why I should buy from them all the electronic gizmos that I can: superior customer service. I told the tech that I really wanted the Accele RVC1150T cameras but they were not in stock when I placed my order so I had bought the Voxx instead. Since the Acceles were in stock, the tech shipped a pair to me, I only had to pay the price difference (Accele was a more expensive camera) and I will return the Voxx to them. That's pretty awesome to me since the Voxx had already been installed, considering I cut and soldered the wires to fit my install.

I installed the replacement cameras this weekend. Accele is definitely a bigger camera housing:

Fortunately it still fit well enough if not perfectly in the spots I picked for the Voxx. Needed a bigger hole in the trim for the bigger camera but that was not too tough with a stepping drill bit. Unfortunately I had to re-run all the wires because the connections were not compatible with what I already installed, and THAT was a pain.

No more annoying lines and flashing STOP though. I think I am happy with the results.

See less See more
Finally got the voltmeter and switch installed. I thought this would be so clever. I thought it would work so well. But the converted ashtray door does not close because the voltmeter sticks up too much. Oh well, at least it works and doesn't look like a complete mess from this side.

Edit: I moved the switch and the meter to the trim panel under the instrument cluster. Also replaced the switch because I could never remember if UP/DOWN activated/deactivated the isolating relays. Now the "I" position is deactivated (isolated batteries) and the "II" position is activated (combined batteries).
See less See more
101 - 120 of 270 Posts