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2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

52670 Views 269 Replies 36 Participants Last post by  snobrdrkid07, 
GmanWJ
2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

It seems like build threads are a thing here, so here's mine. Meet Bella.


>>Factory Build Info

Table of Contents:

BUILD
Suspension​
  1. 2.5" Lift: OME HD Springs & Bilstein 5100 Shocks
  2. Addco 684 Rear Sway Bar
  3. Factory 2004 WJ 30mm Solid Front Sway Bar (no pics)
  4. Core 4x4 Adjustable CAs (stock length)
  5. Ironman 4x4 UCA
  6. Kevin's Offroad Track Bar Bushings
  7. Rubicon Express Front Swaybar Disconnects
Electrical​
  1. Stereo Upgrade 2006: Fosgate Power & Infinity Perfect
  2. Stereo Upgrade 2020: DDIN Kenwood and Backup Camera
  3. Dual Battery and Trailer Charging Port
  4. 2awg Battery and Ground Cable Upgrade
  5. Auxiliary Lighting
  6. Mechman Alternator and 0awg Cable Upgrade
Other & Extras​
  1. EBC Brakes (good!) & Synergy Spacers (removed)
  2. Whip Flags: Firestik mounts, Tusk holders
  3. 3M Undercoating
  4. Wolf Vinyl Decal (fight me!)


REPAIR
Suspension​
  1. Rear Upper Control Arm
  2. Rear Lower Control Arm (video)
  3. Front Control Arm Replacement
  4. Ball Joint Replacement
  5. Detroit Axle Control Arm Review

Engine​
  1. Fuel Injector Connectors
  2. Left Valve Cover Gasket
  3. Right Valve Cover Gasket
  4. Water Pump Replacement
  5. Valve Stem Seals & Lifters
  6. Spark Plug Replacement (video)

Other Stuff​
  1. Driver Door Wire Repair
  2. Rear Axle Bearing Replacement
  3. Headliner Repair? -- FAIL
  4. Hood Emblem Replacement


I have had her since July 2002, new to me and the only new vehicle I have ever owned.

Aside from the typical routine maintenance (fluids, filters, tires, shocks, brakes, ...), some of the things I have had to fix over the years. Note: at first I had all of my service done at the dealer or quick lube shops, but after a few bad things happened I started doing it all myself. Well mostly myself. Some jobs I still take to a shop if I feel like it's over my head or I just want somebody else to do it instead.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 30k. Dealer stated the diff was empty. Odd, since they did all the service for me.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 65k. AGAIN!!
  • Right rear TPM sensor replacement. Jiffy Lube smashed the valve stem for me.
  • Passenger side wiper arm replacement. Jiffy Lube strikes again.
  • Power steering hose, I think this was a factory recall?
  • Evap cannister hose leak. Was throwing a trouble code.
  • O2 sensor replacement. Threw a code so I was going to replace them all until I saw how expensive they are, so just did the one.
  • Climate control panel replacement. The A/C would not blow cold air and really had me stumped. Replaced the panel out of desperation and it worked.
  • EVIC overhead module replacement. Display just died. Got one without TPMS capability because I was running BFG E range tires that would constantly trigger high pressure alarms on the highway.
  • Parking brake cable replacement, TWICE. What is this about?
  • Window regulators on front driver & passenger doors
  • Hood, liftgate, & liftglass struts several times
  • Driver door panel replacement due to cracks in the arm rest. Done this twice too and need to do it again.
  • Passenger side power mirror, I suspect a parking lot incident.
  • Thermostat leak, replaced
  • Water pump leak, replaced
  • Radiator leak, replaced (& hoses)
  • Starter motor replacement, solenoid was dying and threatened to strand me.
  • Engine rear main seal replacement
  • Rear axle seals, bearings, pinion seal

Current list of things that need to be fixed:
  • Peeling headliner (failed 09/05/2020)
  • Driver door panel (arm rest)
  • Driver heated seat
  • Heated seat switches, some lights don't work (but the switch does!)
  • Clunks and creaks in the rear end (completed 11/01/2019)
  • Oil seep from valve covers (completed 03/26/2018)
Obviously I am in no hurry to fix these things ...

Here we are exploring the Lost Coast some years ago. We found a remote deserted beach with a fire ring and stopped for lunch.


Follow along with my adventures with Bella on my dedicated thread:
Gman's Adventures with Bella Blue
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GmanWJ
Sillybilly said:
If i'm reading that right your before and after caster never changed
Click to expand...
Correct. Like Oktavius mentioned, there are no factory adjustments for those, only toe is adjustable. That is why I am considering adjustable control arms so I can tweak the caster.

The odd part is that the camber angle is out of spec. Why would that be? It turns out that two of the alignment shop guys had owned WJs in the past and had experience lifting and wheeling them (one of them even offered to fab up a Flatland bumper for me!). They mentioned that both of their WJs had the same camber problem because the axle has a tendency to bend but you can get an axle reinforcement kit to stop that. I guess maybe the Dana 30 just isn't tough enough to hold up the WJ over the long haul?

Flatland 4x4 sells blueprints but leaves all the fabrication to the buyer. An interesting option if you are into building your own. https://flatland4x4.com/99-04-jeep-grand-cherokee/
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O
GmanWJ said:
Correct. Like Oktavius mentioned, there are no factory adjustments for those, only toe is adjustable. That is why I am considering adjustable control arms so I can tweak the caster.

The odd part is that the camber angle is out of spec. Why would that be? It turns out that two of the alignment shop guys had owned WJs in the past and had experience lifting and wheeling them (one of them even offered to fab up a Flatland bumper for me!). They mentioned that both of their WJs had the same camber problem because the axle has a tendency to bend but you can get an axle reinforcement kit to stop that. I guess maybe the Dana 30 just isn't tough enough to hold up the WJ over the long haul?

Flatland 4x4 sells blueprints but leaves all the fabrication to the buyer. An interesting option if you are into building your own. https://flatland4x4.com/99-04-jeep-grand-cherokee/
Click to expand...
When was the last time the balljoints were replaced? As they wear out, they will tend to increase camber. Honestly, even though the camber is beyond spec, it isn't crazy based on my experience with other cars but I rely on tire wear to determine if alignment specs are incorrect. I haven't measured my camber since I have owned the WJ but might this weekend. Ended up replacing the balljoints and unit bearings recently and might be a good time for a base measurement.

Wonder if camber spacers would work for correction. These list WJ as a candidate:

https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-26012-Camber-Degree/dp/B00N27KGUW/ref=asc_df_B00N27KGUW
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GmanWJ
Oktavius said:
When was the last time the balljoints were replaced? As they wear out, they will tend to increase camber. Honestly, even though the camber is beyond spec, it isn't crazy based on my experience with other cars but I rely on tire wear to determine if alignment specs are incorrect. I haven't measured my camber since I have owned the WJ but might this weekend. Ended up replacing the balljoints and unit bearings recently and might be a good time for a base measurement.

Wonder if camber spacers would work for correction. These list WJ as a candidate:

https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-26012-Camber-Degree/dp/B00N27KGUW/ref=asc_df_B00N27KGUW
Click to expand...
Replaced them end of May 2018. See post #33 up there ^^^^^
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S
But you lifted it 6cm. You should have lost a couple of degrees of caster.
then the longer lower control arms will get your caster back
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GmanWJ
Sillybilly said:
But you lifted it 6cm. You should have lost a couple of degrees of caster.
then the longer lower control arms will get your caster back
Click to expand...
The Before and After measurements were both performed post-lift. "Before" is the first measurement when they put it on the rack. "After" is the second measurement after they adjusted the toe. I don't actually know what the caster was pre-lift because I neglected to get that alignment. Since I had the factory Up-Country suspension in there, I expect caster was somewhere around the spec value of 6.5°.
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GmanWJ
Trials with the Addco rear sway bar continue. I have written before about the contact between the bar and the differential cover here: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f31...build-thread-4239282/index4.html#post40622187
When I installed the lift, I put in a 1-inch spacer to try stop that contact. Instead of contact on the diff cover, I experienced contact between the bar and the fuel tank skid plate.

Left side contact scars:



Right side contact scars:



I've been in contact with an Addco representative, they say they are going to take a look at my pics and see what they can do. Should not have bought this bar off Amazon, should have gone straight to the source. They tell me they changed the design of this bar 3 years before I bought mine, and it looks like the one I have is an old design and probably out of spec. We will see what happens.
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GmanWJ
Addco guy says they will ship a replacement bar. I am frankly surprised, good of them to stand behind their product like that. A shining example of great customer service in the modern world.

Edit: on backorder, due to ship 12/15/2019.
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P
Thank you for the continuing posts in this thread. Just over a week ago, I picked up our first WJ. Since 1993, we've owned six XJs, (one two door), and a 1993 ZJ five speed that we bought new. I'm learning as much as I can about the WJ, as the rear suspension could stand to be rebuilt, (2001 WJ and roughly 214k miles, probably untouched.) I've watched the Vortex Garage videos and I do almost all my own work, but it's nice to know what to expect before getting neck deep into a project.

-Joe
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GmanWJ
GmanWJ said:
Addco guy says they will ship a replacement bar. I am frankly surprised, good of them to stand behind their product like that. A shining example of great customer service in the modern world.

Edit: on backorder, due to ship 12/15/2019.
Click to expand...
Update: Addco has yet to ship a replacement. They missed the 12/15/2019 date; I asked them about it and they gave me a new date 01/27/2020. They missed that one too, new date 02/12/2020.
Honestly don't believe they are going to replace the bar at all anymore. Just keep stringing me along. Looks like I spoke too soon about their level of service.
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GmanWJ
GmanWJ said:
Addco guy says they will ship a replacement bar. I am frankly surprised, good of them to stand behind their product like that. A shining example of great customer service in the modern world.

Edit: on backorder, due to ship 12/15/2019.
Click to expand...
GmanWJ said:
Update: Addco has yet to ship a replacement. They missed the 12/15/2019 date; I asked them about it and they gave me a new date 01/27/2020. They missed that one too, new date 02/12/2020.
Honestly don't believe they are going to replace the bar at all anymore. Just keep stringing me along. Looks like I spoke too soon about their level of service.
Click to expand...
This is getting old. I just spoke with an Addco representative on the telephone. They tell me the 684 sway bar is "currently in production" and will ship in 10 days. So ... they missed the ship date AGAIN (3x). New estimated ship date: 2/24/2020.

Just to recap: it has been 12 weeks (82 days) since Addco said they would replace this sway bar. They appear to have a problem with follow-through. Empty promises are no good to me.

It's a shame because I was considering buying a replacement for the front sway bar as well because I have picked up some handling issues since installing the OME springs.
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Bigrigr
Dang Gman, that does sound like the string-along. I'm betting you arent ever gonna see a replacement rear sway bar. To bad, i have this sway bar on my to do list as well, not sure I like how they handled this issue. They would've been better off to never offer a replacement in the first place. I have a feeling you would've been happier then, than you are now.

Back to the issue at hand, I know the skidplate is fairly open in the front, except for the drivers side where the bracket comes over to the unibody. Can you get in there with a large prybar or something similar to "bend" the skid plate out of the way? It doesnt look like it would take very much clearance....Maybe you can "dimple" the skid plate with a hammer and a long drift of some sort?
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Uniblurb
While it may make no difference Gman believe I'd still try to install washers between the end of the Addco sway bar and end link as pictured below by member jeepsterpitt. I know you haven't mentioning having a rattle/noise but believe it's better to have something filling up that gap to take the slack out of it.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/rear-addco-sway-bar-problems-3560826/#post33388490

I saw where you do have a gap in the photo titled "right side" below. Not sure if you'd need washers where the link metal sleeve go through the hole or not? Saw where somebody mentioned 1.25"x 3/4" ID washers but have no idea if that's correct? Those would seem larger than the washers used in the first post/link by jeepsterpitt.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/2002-bella-blue-wj-build-thread-4239282/index4.html#post40622187

That's really poor of Addco customer service to 'hang you out to dry' and not honor replacing your swaybar as promised repeatably . You may want to point out their integrity is on the line with your thread/posts approaching 10K views (9,900+) and them failing to replace your Addco 684 sway bar.

If you don't have success there's always the BBB and the California Attorney General's Office and below is their complaint form to file against a business or company.

https://oag.ca.gov/contact/consumer-complaint-against-business-or-company

It should be noted Amazon isn't even carrying the Addco 684 rear sway bar anymore. Good luck.
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GmanWJ
Bigrigr said:
Dang Gman, that does sound like the string-along. I'm betting you arent ever gonna see a replacement rear sway bar. To bad, i have this sway bar on my to do list as well, not sure I like how they handled this issue. They would've been better off to never offer a replacement in the first place. I have a feeling you would've been happier then, than you are now.

Back to the issue at hand, I know the skidplate is fairly open in the front, except for the drivers side where the bracket comes over to the unibody. Can you get in there with a large prybar or something similar to "bend" the skid plate out of the way? It doesnt look like it would take very much clearance....Maybe you can "dimple" the skid plate with a hammer and a long drift of some sort?
Click to expand...
I removed the 1-inch sway bar spacers and replaced with some leftover spacers from my load distributing trailer hitch kit. But they are nowhere near thick enough so I still get contact on the diff cover. I'm going to wait a bit more for Addco to actually deliver on their "promise" before trying anything else.
I've been keeping busy with home projects in the meantime so it's not like I am losing too much time on the WJ mods. Still agitating me though.
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GmanWJ
Uniblurb said:
While it may make no difference Gman believe I'd still try to install washers between the end of the Addco sway bar and end link as pictured below by member jeepsterpitt. I know you haven't mentioning having a rattle/noise but believe it's better to have something filling up that gap to take the slack out of it.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/rear-addco-sway-bar-problems-3560826/#post33388490

I saw where you do have a gap in the photo titled "right side" below. Not sure if you'd need washers where the link metal sleeve go through the hole or not? Saw where somebody mentioned 1.25"x 3/4" ID washers but have no idea if that's correct? Those would seem larger than the washers used in the first post/link by jeepsterpitt.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f31...build-thread-4239282/index4.html#post40622187
Click to expand...
Hey, that's a good put, I hadn't even noticed that gap. I haven't had any noticeable rattles from this area, but I should get some washers in there. I'll have to figure out which size to use.

That's really poor of Addco customer service to 'hang you out to dry' and not honor replacing your swaybar as promised repeatably . You may want to point out their integrity is on the line with your thread/posts approaching 10K views (9,900+) and them failing to replace your Addco 684 sway bar.

If you don't have success there's always the BBB and the California Attorney General's Office and below is their complaint form to file against a business or company.

https://oag.ca.gov/contact/consumer-complaint-against-business-or-company

It should be noted Amazon isn't even carrying the Addco 684 rear sway bar anymore. Good luck.
Click to expand...
I will give them until the 24th to ship it. If they shine me on again, maybe I will try sharing my build thread with them, see if that makes any difference. I don't imagine it will though.
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Mattimus_LV
Uniblurb said:
It should be noted Amazon isn't even carrying the Addco 684 rear sway bar anymore. Good luck.
Click to expand...
I must have bought the last one then. Ordered on Jan 30th and installed on Feb 4th.

They've still got the 684 listed but only thru a third-party seller, and for about $130 more than what I paid.
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GmanWJ
Hey, look what showed up today ... A replacement Addco 684 like they promised! I thought they had changed their design to a more curved bend like the factory part, but this one looks very much like the one I already have. I will check measurements this weekend to see if it meets specifications.

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Bigrigr
Well I'll be damned! look at that... It better be bent just a little different near the back at the diff cover huh? Otherwise this was all for naught...But since you have a second one you dont need...:wink2:
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Uniblurb
Great Gman and glad you finally received your replacement Addco sway bar! Let's hope this one fits right.
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GmanWJ
Bigrigr said:
Well I'll be damned! look at that... It better be bent just a little different near the back at the diff cover huh? Otherwise this was all for naught...But since you have a second one you dont need...:wink2:
Click to expand...
Uniblurb said:
Great Gman and glad you finally received your replacement Addco sway bar! Let's hope this one fits right.
Click to expand...
It only needed an extra 1/2" of clearance so it's not immediately obvious just from looking, but I am hopeful that this one will work.
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Bigrigr
Good luck to you.
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