Top Notch write ups! These might deserve a thread for each repair!
Thanks for all the positive votes guys! I will keep doing the thread.Awesome thread with great info. Even more impressive that you are the original owner! My 04 Laredo was bought by my father brand new in mid 2004, it was built 03/2004. I have 147k on the Laredo and I bought the 04 Overland from a friend in 8/2015 and rolled over 200k the other month.
There is no rust on your Jeep, jealous of that but I guess that comes with being on the west coast!
I fought with Moog Control Arms doing the same thing, bushing sleeve fell out. Went with IRO adjustable control arms, even though the Overland is basically stock height.
Very nice job in writing up the repairs...I just did an undercarriage inspection of my 2004 (which I bought new) and I am in for doing all the repairs you listed, minus the axle seals...but....I get to do the rear pinion seal on my transfer case...(yeaaaa!!! -not!)Thanks for all the positive votes guys! I will keep doing the thread.
After seeing the rust on the midwest WJs, I do feel very fortunate. If these Detroit Axle CAs don't work, I am going with the Core4x4 model.
First off, the Addco 684 anti-sway bar is fantastic for adding highway cornering stability to you WJ. I never imagined the Jeep would feel so solid in the curves until I put this thing on. It is not difficult to install, just six bolts total: four that hold it to the axle, and two that tie it to the end links. Easy.REAR SWAY BAR UPGRADE
Friday afternoon was Addco sway bar upgrade day. Added the Energy suspension greasable bushings. Also replaced the links with new Moogs since they were inexpensive. Easy enough job, even for a slow hobbyist like me.
PARTS LIST
Addco 684 1" sway barSide-by-side comparison of the stock bar versus the Addco bar.
Energy Suspension 9.5161R 1" greasable sway bar bushings
Moog K3202 stabilizer bar link (2)
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underneath
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The difference in ride quality was immediately obvious, even with my sloppy, worn-out upper control arm still in place. Next up: R&R the upper control arm.
So it has been 4 and a half months since I installed the Detroit Axle LCAs. Absolutely no problems, the bushings are holding up great. If you are just looking to replace your factory arms and do not need adjustable, I fully recommend the Detroit Axle units. Good stuff.In an earlier post, I wrote about replacing the rear lower control arms (https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/2002-bella-blue-wj-build-thread-4239282/#post39694594). The job itself is easy enough. Getting a quality replacement part is not.
The Mopar control arms that I bought from Rock Auto were complete garbage, they only lasted a few months. She started lurching around when I would apply or remove throttle while cornering. It started small and just kept getting worse, to the point where it began feeling downright dangerous. Not knowing what else to do, I tried putting the old rear lower control arms back on. Result? Problem solved.
The bushings on the replacement control arms looked fine at first. Then I stuck a screwdriver through the inner metal sleeve and gave it a little pry, which opened a big gap between the sleeve and the bushing rubber (no pic yet). The sleeve had delaminated from the rubber.
I ordered a new pair of axles (with bushings) from Detroit Axle. I put this brand on the front and have had no problems yet, so I will give them a try on the rear.
The Fel-Pro gaskets are great. Highly recommend.Very nice job in writing up the repairs...I just did an undercarriage inspection of my 2004 (which I bought new) and I am in for doing all the repairs you listed, minus the axle seals...but....I get to do the rear pinion seal on my transfer case...(yeaaaa!!! -not!)
I found your writeups very very helpful. Thank you!!!!!
First up is the rear UCA and LCAs, then the valve cover gaskets.
BTW - You used the Fels-pro gaskets, how did they work out? would you use different ones?
Rust...ugh....my L & R inner and outer rockers are shot from the rear wheels up 3/4 of the way to the front. What a mess...Thank you PA for using the liquid salt that is extremely corrosive.
Now I feel like giving them 1-star for censorship.First off, the Addco 684 anti-sway bar is fantastic for adding highway cornering stability to you WJ. I never imagined the Jeep would feel so solid in the curves until I put this thing on. It is not difficult to install, just six bolts total: four that hold it to the axle, and two that tie it to the end links. Easy.
But unfortunately it doesn't fit quite right. When I installed the Addco about a year ago, I also put a new coat of paint on the rear differential cover. Been happy with the performance. Last weekend I changed the differential fluid and found a scuff mark on the cover, and a matching mark on the Addco (see pictures).
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When the rear suspension is in compression, the bar makes contact with the diff. cover -- verified by having a friend bounce on the rear bumper while I watched. Yup, contact. I just can't have that.
Unfortunate because it really does make the ride so much better.
One other problem: the finish is not durable. Paint started flaking off before I even got it hooked up. After a year, a good portion of the outboard arm is missing paint (sorry, no picture of that). So another demerit for that.
I heard a rumor that Addco redesigned this unit so it no longer makes contact. But that's not the one they sold to me on Amazon. Take your chances if you are the gambling type.
Caster and camber are non-adjustable with the factory setup. Caster can be adjusted with either adjustable control arms or adjustable balljoints. Camber can be adjusted with adjustable balljoints.If i'm reading that right your before and after caster never changed