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2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

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2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

It seems like build threads are a thing here, so here's mine. Meet Bella.

>>Factory Build Info

Table of Contents:


  1. 2.5" Lift: OME HD Springs & Bilstein 5100 Shocks
  2. Addco 684 Rear Sway Bar
  3. Factory 2004 WJ 30mm Solid Front Sway Bar (no pics)
  4. Core 4x4 Adjustable CAs (stock length)
  5. Ironman 4x4 UCA
  6. Kevin's Offroad Track Bar Bushings
  7. Rubicon Express Front Swaybar Disconnects
  1. Stereo Upgrade 2006: Fosgate Power & Infinity Perfect
  2. Stereo Upgrade 2020: DDIN Kenwood and Backup Camera
  3. Dual Battery and Trailer Charging Port
  4. 2awg Battery and Ground Cable Upgrade
  5. Auxiliary Lighting
  6. Mechman Alternator and 0awg Cable Upgrade
Other & Extras
  1. EBC Brakes (good!) & Synergy Spacers (removed)
  2. Whip Flags: Firestik mounts, Tusk holders
  3. 3M Undercoating
  4. Wolf Vinyl Decal (fight me!)

  1. Rear Upper Control Arm
  2. Rear Lower Control Arm (video)
  3. Front Control Arm Replacement
  4. Ball Joint Replacement
  5. Detroit Axle Control Arm Review

  1. Fuel Injector Connectors
  2. Left Valve Cover Gasket
  3. Right Valve Cover Gasket
  4. Water Pump Replacement
  5. Valve Stem Seals & Lifters
  6. Spark Plug Replacement (video)

Other Stuff
  1. Driver Door Wire Repair
  2. Rear Axle Bearing Replacement
  3. Headliner Repair? -- FAIL
  4. Hood Emblem Replacement

I have had her since July 2002, new to me and the only new vehicle I have ever owned.

Aside from the typical routine maintenance (fluids, filters, tires, shocks, brakes, ...), some of the things I have had to fix over the years. Note: at first I had all of my service done at the dealer or quick lube shops, but after a few bad things happened I started doing it all myself. Well mostly myself. Some jobs I still take to a shop if I feel like it's over my head or I just want somebody else to do it instead.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 30k. Dealer stated the diff was empty. Odd, since they did all the service for me.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 65k. AGAIN!!
  • Right rear TPM sensor replacement. Jiffy Lube smashed the valve stem for me.
  • Passenger side wiper arm replacement. Jiffy Lube strikes again.
  • Power steering hose, I think this was a factory recall?
  • Evap cannister hose leak. Was throwing a trouble code.
  • O2 sensor replacement. Threw a code so I was going to replace them all until I saw how expensive they are, so just did the one.
  • Climate control panel replacement. The A/C would not blow cold air and really had me stumped. Replaced the panel out of desperation and it worked.
  • EVIC overhead module replacement. Display just died. Got one without TPMS capability because I was running BFG E range tires that would constantly trigger high pressure alarms on the highway.
  • Parking brake cable replacement, TWICE. What is this about?
  • Window regulators on front driver & passenger doors
  • Hood, liftgate, & liftglass struts several times
  • Driver door panel replacement due to cracks in the arm rest. Done this twice too and need to do it again.
  • Passenger side power mirror, I suspect a parking lot incident.
  • Thermostat leak, replaced
  • Water pump leak, replaced
  • Radiator leak, replaced (& hoses)
  • Starter motor replacement, solenoid was dying and threatened to strand me.
  • Engine rear main seal replacement
  • Rear axle seals, bearings, pinion seal

Current list of things that need to be fixed:
  • Peeling headliner (failed 09/05/2020)
  • Driver door panel (arm rest)
  • Driver heated seat
  • Heated seat switches, some lights don't work (but the switch does!)
  • Clunks and creaks in the rear end (completed 11/01/2019)
  • Oil seep from valve covers (completed 03/26/2018)
Obviously I am in no hurry to fix these things ...

Here we are exploring the Lost Coast some years ago. We found a remote deserted beach with a fire ring and stopped for lunch.

Follow along with my adventures with Bella on my dedicated thread:
Gman's Adventures with Bella Blue
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Stage 1: Wiring

The nervous system of the project. The whole thing is basically wire management. Where to put them and how to control them.

Striped Tracer Wire (Sherco)
Flexo TightWeave -- braided sleeve(WireCare)
ShrinkFlex -- shrink tube (WireCare)
Split Loom (Home Depot)
Cable Gland pg13.5 (Amazon)
Tapecase TC790 -- non-adhesive vinyl tape (Amazon)
Super 88 electrical tape (Home Depot)

So many wires ... to keep them all straight and somewhat coordinated, I decided to use striped wire. Sherco Auto & Marine in Florida sells it in 25-foot rolls. It is good quality tinned copper marine wire with thick insulation. The stripes are "okay" ... not great, but they are there and really help keep track of everything.

I used a braided sleeve for wire management and protection inside the vehicle. It comes in several colors and sizes. The trick here is that the listed sleeve size is the width of the FLAT SLEEVE; when filled with wires, the CIRCUMFERENCE of the bundle will be twice the width of the sleeve. So if you have a bundle that is 1/2-inch DIAMETER, then the CIRCUMFERENCE of that bundle is (1/2)*pi ≈ 3/2-inch and you will need a 3/4-inch sleeve width. Clear as mud? Yeah.

The braided design allows it to expand and contract somewhat, so the numbers are a bit flexible. The ends also have a tendency to unbraid when cut, so it can be tricky to work with. Melt the ends as you cut it with a "hot knife" keeps the ends from fraying, but then the end cannot expand or contract. I ended up using shrink tube to bind the ends. End result was worth it, I think.

Outside the vehicle, I also used plastic split loom in addition to the braided sleeve, and wrapped the loom with vinyl tape. Secured the ends with Super 88.

Everything had to run to the right rear corner. The factory CD changer location looked to be the best place for me to mount the controller. Here is what it ended up looking like (not a great photo):

Ran the bundles up along the D pillar. Put a relay behind the trim panel on each side for the rear roof lights. That coil of wire to the right is for the rear back-up lights; it eventually got stuffed through the factory grommet to the tail light assembly.

All tucked in:

To get the wires outside, I had to drill a hole. Used a step-bit and came in from underneath. Deburred the edges with a round file and painted the bare metal.

Added some black RTV silicone and installed the cable gland. Trickier than it sounds.

With cable:

Up on the roof:

I needed to run three wire bundles up to the front, 2 for switch wires, and 1 for light power. This is where they went. The big one in this pic is the 1/0 awg cable that runs to the rear battery; it got a layer of braided sleeve, too.

Here is the harness I built for the roof lights, all loomed up and wrapped.
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Stage 2: Controller, Connectors, Switches

The brains and synapses of the system. What good is a nervous system without them?

Rough Country MLC-6 Controller (Poly Performance)
Deutsch DT Connectors (4RCustoms)
AutoEC 12V LED Switches (Amazon)​

S&G Tool SG18880 -- DT Terminal Crimper (Summit)
S&G Tool SG18600 -- Open Barrel Crimpers (Summit)​

I wanted a modular system that could be disconnected if needed. Seemed like the right thing to do, so I planned for it. I found these Deutsch connectors that do what I want them to do ... but boy they get pricey in a hurry. You can buy them from WireCare or Summit or 4RCustoms or probably lots of other places. I ended up buying packs of 5 from 4RCustoms through Amazon. BUT YOU NEED THE CRIMPER and it is expensive. The normal wire crimper in your tool box will not get 'er done. I used a mix of 2-pin, 3-pin, 6-pin, and 8-pin kits. This is what one of the 3-pin plugs looked like:

With braided sleeve and shrink tube:

I bought the MLC-6 because it solved several problems for me in one nice package. I used only the power/ground wires that came with it, I did not use the switches or the switch wire harness because it was too short. I had to build a custom harness for the switches ... I could not have done it without my local electronics store. They happened to have a plastic plug and terminals that mated perfectly with the circuit board, cost ~$5 which was great but I bought the S&G SG18600 crimpers to make sure I did it right and it got more expensive. But hey, the harness is custom and it is 16awg wire and it works great and I LIKE IT so it is perfect.

I had to cut some holes in the factory CD changer mounting bracket and the trim panel to fit the MLC-6 and the wires:

With the cover off:

Switches ... well it took me a while because I wanted a DPST (double pole single throw) 12V switch to power the two rear roof lights, but I could not find one. I ended up buying a pack from Amazon and they seem to be working well.

I decided to put the switches in the ash tray. Those who have been following along here know that I already put a switch and a voltmeter there ... so I moved them to where Jeep put the factory adjustable pedals switch. Bella does not have that option, so it looked like a suitable place for the voltmeter. That freed me up to put the switches in the ash tray. But I had to mod the ashtray: I sliced a bit off the top to lower it, raked the angle of the top surface a bit to make more room for terminals, and cut off the rear wall to improve access. I had to slice a bit out of the rear support structure too, but the end result is still sturdy enough for my use. Maybe a bit of hack-n-slash, but such is the price.

Relocated voltmeter and switch

Switches for rear roof lights

D-pillar secondary switches for rear roof lights. These are here for those camping nights when the BBQ grill is behind the Jeep and I need some hands-free area lights. One on each corner

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Stage 3: Roof Rack and Mounts

Keeping on with the body metaphor, I suppose this would be the skeleton. This was my mounting solution for the rear roof lights. I thought the fron light bar might mount on it too, but could not find a suitable solution. So roof rack it is ... which gives a place to put other things like traction boards.

ROLA 59504 (Amazon)
Roof Rail Mounting Tabs (4x4 Fabworks)
Rugged Ridge 11031.01 X-Clamp (Amazon)
Jeep Factory Roof Cross Rails -- used (Ebay)

Looked at several racks, decided on the Rola. Like it better. I feel like I need to replace the mounting clamps that came with it, they are already corroding. A friend of mine asked if it would still fit in the garage with a rack on top ... answer: yes, but it will take another 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) above the roof rails. As it happens, I could position the cross rails and the Rola so that it way back on the roof but still clears the liftgate and liftglass.

The mounting tabs from 4x4 Fabworks are the greatest things. Not a perfect solution for what I wanted, but they fit a 40-inch light bar with no problems at all.

I tried one other bar clamp for the rear roof lights before I bought the Rugged Ridge. The other clamps took up too much room and would not allow my lights to fit in a low-profile like I wanted. But the Rugged Ridge fit the bill perfectly. Honestly, I was not sure about them at first and went a different way, but that was a bad idea. The Rugged Ridge X-Clamps seem good to me. Pics to follow.
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Stage 4: Lights

IT IS ALIVE! So now that all the support structure is in place, it is finally time to install lights. In this stage, I put in the roof lights. After many hours, many days, and many dollars. FINALLY.

Rigid Radiance Plus SR 40" 240603 (Rigid)
SR-L Spreader Surface Mount (Rigid)​

Oops, it appears I forgot to take a pic with the covers off! Sorry, I will get one of those.

A look at how it mounts to the roof rails using the tabs from 4x4 Fabworks.

Here is the Rugged Ridge X-clamp with light installed.

And a little proof that everything fits even with the liftglass opened and the liftgate up.

So yay, I finally have some auxiliary lights. Stay tuned for more lights to come in the future.
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Reserved for future lights
Reserved for more future lights
Reserved for even more future lights
If I am not mistaken, the factory OEM generator ("alternator") is rated at 140A. I have installed some electricity consuming devices including a theoretical 80A worth of stereo amplifiers, a secondary house battery, a direct hookup for powering/charging the camper while towing, and now some auxiliary lights. Rather than do the 165A Durango-model upgrade, I decided to go bigger with a Mechman which should generate plenty to keep me going.

Mechman currently offers two models for the 4.7L motor: a 240A and a 320A model. I figured the 240A model would be plenty. The pulley on the Mechman is smaller than factory, so you need a belt that is 1/2-inch shorter than the standard belt. This recommendation direct from the Mechman office. It is not too difficult to get a suitable belt; I just had a chat with the Autozone clerk and told them what I needed, they were able to find one for me. Seems to fit.

In anticipation of this upgrade, I previously upsized my primary power and ground wires from the factory size 6awg to 2awg. I am a bit disappointed to see that I performed this upgrade nearly a year ago ... yikes. I have my progress motor running in low gear, I guess. And to top it off, when the Mechman arrived, the bench test measured 263A output at 1800rpm, more than I was expecting. I ran some numbers and determined that the 2awg cables were just not big enough to handle that kind of current, so I had to upgrade to 0awg. I ordered custom length power cables from Powerwerx.

Parts List
  • Mechman 240A Alternator (Mechman) $400
  • 0awg power/ground wires (Powerwerx)
    • (+) 3'6" alternator-to-breaker $31
    • (+) 6" breaker-to-PDC $16
    • (+) 1'10" PDC-to-battery $21
    • (-) 2'8" G101 battery-to-fender $26
    • (-) 3'8" G103 battery-to-block $31
    • (-) 2' auxbattery-to-ground
  • (+) 20' battery-to-auxbattery (Amazon) $88
  • 300A auto-reset circuit breaker (Powerwerx)$33
  • red cable caps (Powerwerx)
  • black cable caps (Powerwerx)
  • Duralast serpentine belt 870K6 (Autozone)

Yeah so ... not exactly an inexpensive upgrade.

Installation is pretty straightforward. I am not going through how to install cables and generators, but I will give you some pictures!

The Mechman. Since Jeep was a Daimler-Chrysler brand when the WJ was produced, I ordered Chrysler blue. Looks like Richard Petty blue and I like it!

Power/ground cables. It turns out that 0awg is a bit harder to work with than 2awg ...

As Tim "The Toolman" Taylor would say: More power! Ur ur ur ur ur. Or something like that.
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I promised to post a pic of my light bar without the covers, so here it is. Look, it even works. Happy Jeeping.


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I promised to post a pic of my light bar without the covers, so here it is. Look, it even works. Happy Jeeping.
You don't get light bar whistle do you? Mounted a 36" light bar to my wj roof rack and it screamed if I went above 50 mph. Just curious...I fixed mine now. like the look of the skinny light bar. Wish I had the money to go to the lengths you have with your WJ. I love it! After my AM Certifications I hope to get some more pieces going onto mine :smile2:
I thought I'd seen your rig do You Tube videos.
I promised to post a pic of my light bar without the covers, so here it is. Look, it even works. Happy Jeeping.
You don't get light bar whistle do you? Mounted a 36" light bar to my wj roof rack and it screamed if I went above 50 mph. Just curious...I fixed mine now. like the look of the skinny light bar. Wish I had the money to go to the lengths you have with your WJ. I love it! After my AM Certifications I hope to get some more pieces going onto mine /forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_smile.png
No, my bar does not whistle. I could not say if that is because it is made by Rigid, because it is a slimline model, or if it is because I have a cargo rack crossbar within an inch of the back of the light to break up the air flow. Maybe some of each.
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I thought I'd seen your rig do You Tube videos.
Yeah I have 3 or 4 of them. I don't really know what I am doing but I try things here and there.
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New 5/16" whip flags. Old poles were 1/4" and really just too flimsy in the wind.

She's dirty, needs a wash/wax.


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2002 WJ Battery Cable Replacement

Decided it was time to replace the battery cables as part of the dual battery mod. Discovered that my factory cables were still in very good condition. The battery terminals were showing lots of wear though, especially the negative terminal which has been removed numerous times due to past service.

Factory cables are 6awg, this mod upgraded them to 2awg which will be enough to handle a high capacity alternator should that be needed in the future. (Edit: it was not ... I needed to upgrade to 0awg for the Mechman 240A. whoops). The whole procedure sounds easy enough, but I did not really know what I would find when I started pulling the wiring harness apart, so this was also a learning experience for me. There are probably others out there that are curious as well, so I'm writing it up here.

I purchased a new set of cables from Most of them were too long. I considered shortening the cables and installing new ring lugs, but in the end I just stuffed most of the excess cable behind the headlight; not a great solution but it worked.

Power Wires (red)
There are three main power wires that I replaced. The first runs from the alternator runs directly to the PDC and has a fusible link (green) at the PDC connection. The second runs from the PDC to the battery (+) terminal. The third runs from the battery (+) to the starter. Note that I also have a blue power cable that runs from battery (+) to the back of the vehicle where I have a secondary battery.

Ground Wires (black)
The cable package I purchased included three main ground wires. The first runs from the fender next to the PDC to the battery (-) terminal. The second runs from the right side of the engine block to the battery (-). The third runs from the firewall to the cylinder head, but I could not identify which wire the supplier meant for me to replace. I think it might be the G100 ground strap, but not sure.

Step 1) Remove the battery.

The tray needs to come out too.

Step 2) Dissect the wiring harness.
I have always wondered exactly what is in that bundle of wires. It turns out, it's not too mysterious. Two ground wires (black), two power wires (red), one starter solenoid wire (light green), two alternator field coil wires (dark green, white/blue). That's it, that's all we have to worry about.

Removing the loom on the bundle that runs to the PDC reveals where the starter solenoid wire and alternator field coil wires come from, and exposes the fusible link on the alternator power wire.

The wire bundle next to the battery is wrapped with a plastic sleeve. I reused this sleeve as an extra layer of protection when I reassembled the bundle.

Step 3) Starter Cable
Following the power wires, we can see the alternator wires head off to their destination while the starter wires pair off to theirs. The starter bundle has a clamp on it that is mounted to the cylinder head with a 17mm nut. Unmount the bundle. Removed the clamp for re-use on the new bundle.

Removed the wires from the starter. With a little encouragement, the starter bundle was free to slide right out the top. A broken plastic wire tie fell on the ground at this point ... it must have been holding the wire loom at one time, but do not really know where it came from. Remove the loom from the existing bundle to pull out the starter solenoid wire because we are going to need that.

Put a little bend in the replacement lug to match the factory terminal.

Bundled the new cable with the existing solenoid wire using a fresh 1/2-inch plastic loom and wrapped it with non-adhesive vinyl tape. Anchored the ends with adhesive wire loom fabric tape to ensure the wrap stays put. Ran it back down where it came from and hooked it back up to the starter.

Step 4) PDC Cables
Three issues to deal with here. The first is that I needed room for the two ring lugs on the new cables and they did not fit in the existing location. So I got a pair of side cutters and nipped out some plastic from the PDC until there was enough room. Had to bend the lugs to make them fit.

The second is that the fusible link was eliminated in the new cable set; instead, we have an ANL fuse holder. The ANL fuse means that the system can be more easily serviced in the field if needed, but the downside is that we need to find room for it. I have an Optima battery with a footprint that is smaller than factory, so I let it sit on the battery tray.

The third issue is that the cables were all too long. I stuffed the excess behind the headlight rather than shorten and re-terminate the cables. This left a fairly ugly mess, you can see the result.

Step 5) Alternator Cable
Not much to say here, really. Removed the old wire loom and alternator cable. New loom around the new cable and existing field coil wires. Wrapped the loom with the vinyl tape and anchored the ends with adhesive fabric tape.

Step 6) Ground Cable G103
G103 is on the right side of the engine block. The cable runs through the engine mount and up to the battery (-) terminal. Needed to put a small bend in the lug to ensure clearance between the wire loom and the engine block, it can get hot enough to melt plastic down here. There is nothing else to worry about here, really. New loom, new wrap for this cable too.

Step 7) Ground Cable G101
G101 is on the fender next to the PDC. This one would have been a slam dunk if it were not too long. Loom and wrap the cable, route it into position.

Step 8) Bundle It Up
Loomed and wrapped all the cables. After several attempts experimenting with routing locations, I basically ended up with the original routing. To reassemble the bundles, I used zip ties to dry fit it until I got it how I wanted it.

Final wrap with adhesive fabric tape added the (probably unnecessary) plastic sleeve removed from the original bundle.

New "military" style terminals, I really dig these.

So that is that. I am left with this cable ... I contacted the supplier through email, strangely enough he could not tell me exactly where to put that cable. I think it must be the G100 ground cable, what else could it be?
im going to do the big three. one way to save money on it is junk yard find a chrysler 300 battery is in the trunk pull the clamp off then feed the #1 wire through the trunk into the cabin to the front from under the carpet to a through the fire wall getting the copper lug the thru firewall connector and the battery clamp with it those battery clamps are great off of the chysler 300, dodge durango and you get 13' positive RED for aboout $ 6.00 at the junk yard. the grounds are not long but the clamps are great the best ive ever used i have a set ready when warm weather gets here. it all #1 wire says on the wire MADE IN THE USA... on the engine compartment side you can get the #1 wire to the distribution box #2 wire to the starter and the #2 wire to the solenoid all ready built crimped, dipped soldered with heat webbing protection and has adhesive heat shirked all ready done for ya...on one car. so two pcs one 13' long with great battery clamp one end, lug other end, engine side you get lug with protection then it branches to two different lengths #2 wire with protection webbing around wire for heat protection near engine and lugs on each end already crimped and soldered . all of it says MADE IN USA all for less than $15.00 depending on your junk yard.
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Whip Flag Mounts, 2 Years Later

I installed Firestik plates and Tusk flag holders a couple years ago.

Well they have not been looking so hot lately.
Gas Wood Sports equipment Font Carmine

Hood Automotive lighting Light Motor vehicle Automotive tail & brake light

That's life, things get old and rusty, right? Yeah maybe so. Maybe not so simple as that. Notice one is in worse shape than the other. Why would that be?

I ordered four new Tusks (I have reasons), and noticed they were not all the same material. Three were like the part on the right, only one like the left.
Automotive tire Font Household hardware Gas Nickel

Tusk advertises these as being aluminum, and that is all they say. It is pretty clear that the left post is zinc plated steel and the right is stainless steel, with matching nuts. The washers are all zinc. The black coupler is the aluminum part, and it is anodized.

I removed the old holders. Notice that the old ones were also one zinc, one stainless. The stainless one was more severely corroded and broke during removal.
Household hardware Gas Cylinder Auto part Font

Well I am not a materials expert but I think these different metals are important to consider. Somebody I know mentioned the term galvanic corrosion to me ... I do not want to go all into it, but combining aluminum and stainless steel fasteners can cause corrosion when they get wet, salt water makes it worse. On the other hand, aluminum and zinc are more compatible on the galvanic scale.

Is that what happened here? Do not know, but the zinc model was less corroded, so it seems likely.

Anyway, what to do about it? If you keep the aluminum from direct contact with the other metals, electrically isolate it, that should work, so that is what I did.

Paint! I had some blue, uh, "anodizing" paint on the shelf. So I painted my stainless parts. Then I got some black oxide stainless hardware to replace what Tusk provided. And added some rubber washers to try to isolate the holders from the Firestik plates.
Automotive tire Tire Font Material property Gas

After installing, I painted again to try to seal out the water.
Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Grille Automotive design

Will this actually stop the rust and corrosion? I do not know but it is worth a shot.
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Hi @GmanWJ ,
yes, you had been victim of galvanic corrosion.
If you couple different metals in presence of water (salt water is worse) and oxigen, you will see what you have seen.
Galvanic corrosion depends upon materials coupled, surface extension of parts, temperature, ambient conditions and some other little factors; for example in marine applications, you will (should...) never see aluminium parts fixed with stainless steel rivets or brass/copper parts fixed with aluminium rivets: in both cases aluminium will suffer quick corrosion.
Galvanic oxidation is a deep world that in some cases is ruled by practical rules that superseed theory rules… 😂

What you did, to isolate with paint, is correct: the more you keep not in contact different metals, and the more tou keep galvanic corrosion far from you.
And the more you do not allow oxygen and water reach the metals, the more you do not allow chemical reactions take place.

To avoid galvanic messes, I usually tend to use/couple same metals for hardware and plates; sometimes I use grease when I am forced to couple different metals.

One note/question about the broken holder: was the stainless steel holder coupled with a stainless steel nut?
Very often stainless steel threads and nuts tend to size, so it could be that it broke because it was sized and not because it was corroded.
In these cases, sometimes it is used to grease the thread, or to use zinc-plated stainless steel nuts on stainless steel bolts.
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One note/question about the broken holder: was the stainless steel holder coupled with a stainless steel nut?
Very often stainless steel threads and nuts tend to size, so it could be that it broke because it was sized and not because it was corroded.
In these cases, sometimes it is used to grease the thread, or to use zinc-plated stainless steel nuts on stainless steel bolts.
Yes indeed it was. But I used a black oxide stainless steel nut from McMaster Carr hoping to avoid corrosion. The nut was not badly corroded and the threads under the nut were ok. The main problem was the exposed threads, they were the ones that rusted and I did not bother to try to clean out the threads before removal so the nut got stuck.

This is pretty new stuff to me so any tips are appreciated. I used anti-seize the first time which may have helped to protect the threads under the aluminum coupler.
Everything on the pacific side of the coastal range rusts. Everything!
Oxygen Sensor Replacement

Bella threw a code for B2S2 oxygen sensor heater circuit. Since all but one were still the original sensors and I just rolled over 237,000 miles, I decided to replace all four.

I ordered Denso -- OEM sensors were also Denso so it seems fitting to me.
  • 234-4654, B1S1 upstream left $35 (Summit)
  • 224-4747, B1S2 downstream left $53 (Summit)
  • 234-4653, B2S1 upstream right $53 (Summit)
  • 234-4746, B2S2 downstream right $35 (Summit)

O2 sensors are pretty straightforward to replace. Rusty conditions will increase difficulty. Spray with penetrating oil and let sit a bit to help. I used some PB Blaster.

Upstream sensors were pretty easy. Readily accessible, I used a 7/8" tubing wrench I had in the toolbox. The downstream connectors were harder to reach; probably doable with a crowfoot tubing wrench but I did not have one so I bought an oxygen sensor socket from the local auto parts store. You will also need an extension and a ratchet, preferably a long-handled ratchet. Do not recommend a standard box end wrench, but do what you gotta do.
Automotive tire Automotive exhaust Bicycle part Bicycle handlebar Bicycle fork

Motor vehicle Shotgun Air gun Auto part Wood

Put anti-seize on the sensor threads (ONLY on the threads), do not cross-thread, tighten.
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Bumper

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Crankset

Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle
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