Sneak peek: wiring diagram for exterior lights.
Edit3: wire color changes, bundling
It's official: I overthink things. I have puzzled my puzzler sore, and I keep circling around the same solution. :idea: Pretty certain I know how I am going to tackle this mod. I have been acquiring the parts.
Power Center
Rough Country MLC-6: ($200) (acquired)
A relay bank in a box. This nifty unit comes with all the wires, switches, relays, and fuses needed to control 6 separate auxiliary circuits. (Aux wires not included). Run battery power to it, flip a switch to activate a relay to run the light circuit. I may not use some of the wires and switches, but the relay box itself is very handy. I am going to mount it in the factory CD changer location and power it from my auxiliary battery back there. Ordered it from Poly Performance.
Wiring Harnesses (MLC6 Output)
Sherco Auto and Marine: ($150) striped tracer wire (ordered)
4RCustomsWire: ($200) Deutsch DT environmental connectors (acquired)
I will install the lights in stages, so the wiring harness must allow a modular design. DT connectors will provide this function and keep things dry and tight; adding the lights should just be a matter of building a short connector harness and plugging it in. The lights I want have low-power colored backlights or accent lights, which means that each light needs two power inputs (and one ground). The wiring harness will be built with this in mind, with 3-pin DT connectors. Striped tracer wire will make it easier to identify the wires in the harness. There will be at least two harnesses, one that goes to the lights in front, one to the rear. I will likely build a third for the switch wires. I already have the DT connectors, have not yet ordered wire.
In case you were not keeping track ... That's $550 worth of stuff and I do not have any lights yet.

Those DT connectors add up quick.
Lights
The plan is for lights by Rigid Industries. I cannot help myself, I must have the bling to satisfy my red neck.

The SR bars have 7 different selectable backlight colors or a rotating feature. The SR-L lights have more modest colored accent rings. I cannot explain why I need these; it just must be, because there ain't no party like a redneck party. My wife does not get it either.
I wish I could figure a way to flush mount the roof SRLs, (say on the liftgate) but I just do not see enough room anywhere.
Switches
Mostly obvious how these work, except for the rear area and the backlight circuits.
- Backlight: One switch/relay will control all the back/accent lights. When it's time to get funky, get funky all the way around.
- Rear Area: A pair of SRLs mounted on the roof rails on the back corners will light the area. Each light will be independently powered by a relay hiding behind the interior trim on the D-pillar, separate from the MLC6. A DPST switch on the dash will activate both relays and both lights. There will also be a SPST switch mounted to the trim on the D-pillar for each relay; flip one of these, and only the light on that corner comes on.
Plan
So many dollars ... I have to stage this install to make it easier to swallow.
- $$ MLC6 power center & main harness to set the foundation.
- $$$ Roof SR bar. Do the expensive one first.
- $ Rear area SRLs. Do the most useful pair second.
- $$$ Front bumper. Need a bumper to mount the front lights.
- $ Front SR bar and front SRLs
- $$$$ Rear bumper. I still do not know what I am going to do here.
- $ Backup SRLs.
It will be a while yet before I get started on this, I am going camping first.
Edit: interesting finds
roof rack mounting tabs: 4x4 Fabworks ($55)
roof rack cross rails: Just for Jeeps ($300)
safari rack: KOR ($700)