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2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

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2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build

It seems like build threads are a thing here, so here's mine. Meet Bella.


>>Factory Build Info

Table of Contents:

BUILD

Suspension
  1. 2.5" Lift: OME HD Springs & Bilstein 5100 Shocks
  2. Addco 684 Rear Sway Bar
  3. Factory 2004 WJ 30mm Solid Front Sway Bar (no pics)
  4. Core 4x4 Adjustable CAs (stock length)
  5. Ironman 4x4 UCA
  6. Kevin's Offroad Track Bar Bushings
  7. Rubicon Express Front Swaybar Disconnects
Electrical
  1. Stereo Upgrade 2006: Fosgate Power & Infinity Perfect
  2. Stereo Upgrade 2020: DDIN Kenwood and Backup Camera
  3. Dual Battery and Trailer Charging Port
  4. 2awg Battery and Ground Cable Upgrade
  5. Auxiliary Lighting
  6. Mechman Alternator and 0awg Cable Upgrade
Other & Extras
  1. EBC Brakes (good!) & Synergy Spacers (removed)
  2. Whip Flags: Firestik mounts, Tusk holders
  3. 3M Undercoating
  4. Wolf Vinyl Decal (fight me!)


REPAIR
Suspension
  1. Rear Upper Control Arm
  2. Rear Lower Control Arm (video)
  3. Front Control Arm Replacement
  4. Ball Joint Replacement
  5. Detroit Axle Control Arm Review

Engine
  1. Fuel Injector Connectors
  2. Left Valve Cover Gasket
  3. Right Valve Cover Gasket
  4. Water Pump Replacement
  5. Valve Stem Seals & Lifters
  6. Spark Plug Replacement (video)

Other Stuff
  1. Driver Door Wire Repair
  2. Rear Axle Bearing Replacement
  3. Headliner Repair? -- FAIL
  4. Hood Emblem Replacement


I have had her since July 2002, new to me and the only new vehicle I have ever owned.

Aside from the typical routine maintenance (fluids, filters, tires, shocks, brakes, ...), some of the things I have had to fix over the years. Note: at first I had all of my service done at the dealer or quick lube shops, but after a few bad things happened I started doing it all myself. Well mostly myself. Some jobs I still take to a shop if I feel like it's over my head or I just want somebody else to do it instead.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 30k. Dealer stated the diff was empty. Odd, since they did all the service for me.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 65k. AGAIN!!
  • Right rear TPM sensor replacement. Jiffy Lube smashed the valve stem for me.
  • Passenger side wiper arm replacement. Jiffy Lube strikes again.
  • Power steering hose, I think this was a factory recall?
  • Evap cannister hose leak. Was throwing a trouble code.
  • O2 sensor replacement. Threw a code so I was going to replace them all until I saw how expensive they are, so just did the one.
  • Climate control panel replacement. The A/C would not blow cold air and really had me stumped. Replaced the panel out of desperation and it worked.
  • EVIC overhead module replacement. Display just died. Got one without TPMS capability because I was running BFG E range tires that would constantly trigger high pressure alarms on the highway.
  • Parking brake cable replacement, TWICE. What is this about?
  • Window regulators on front driver & passenger doors
  • Hood, liftgate, & liftglass struts several times
  • Driver door panel replacement due to cracks in the arm rest. Done this twice too and need to do it again.
  • Passenger side power mirror, I suspect a parking lot incident.
  • Thermostat leak, replaced
  • Water pump leak, replaced
  • Radiator leak, replaced (& hoses)
  • Starter motor replacement, solenoid was dying and threatened to strand me.
  • Engine rear main seal replacement
  • Rear axle seals, bearings, pinion seal

Current list of things that need to be fixed:
  • Peeling headliner (failed 09/05/2020)
  • Driver door panel (arm rest)
  • Driver heated seat
  • Heated seat switches, some lights don't work (but the switch does!)
  • Clunks and creaks in the rear end (completed 11/01/2019)
  • Oil seep from valve covers (completed 03/26/2018)
Obviously I am in no hurry to fix these things ...

Here we are exploring the Lost Coast some years ago. We found a remote deserted beach with a fire ring and stopped for lunch.


Follow along with my adventures with Bella on my dedicated thread:
Gman's Adventures with Bella Blue
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Detroit Axle Control Arm Review

I replaced the factory original CAs in 2018 after 15 years of service. Rear upper CA in February 2018, rear lower CAs later that same month, and all of the front CAs in May 2018. Posts about those experiences are earlier in this thread. Then I installed HD OME springs and Bilstein 5100s in November 2019. At the end of January 2021, I installed adjustable CAs in the front and lower rear; adjustable upper rear went in mid-February 2021. So I had my Detroit Axle CAs in there between 2.5-3 years, a year of which was run with lifted suspension. I thought some of you might like to see what they looked like when I took them out.

I liked the way they rode. They made Bella drive better than she had in ages. I mean, I was really impressed, it was like a whole new vehicle. They held up far better than the Mopar replacements I had tried. I had no trouble with handling until I installed the lift and that other bushing failed (also a Mopar replacement).

Front Upper
There is only one bushing on each of the upper arms. They were definitely showing some wear. I have written about the handling problems I had after I installed the lift ... Much of this was due to the failed axle bushing on the upper left. As a result of that failed bushing, I think these bushings got thrashed a bit more than normal. At any rate, here they are.

Left


Right


Front Lower
I think that's what these are. Could possibly be the rear lowers, they looked about the same. A little worn, not bad.

Axle-side bushings



Body-side bushings



Rear Upper
I had some tail wag going on. Inspection of the rear upper bushings looks pretty good, IMHO.

Left


Right


Ball Joint
I do not know for sure, but what exactly is the function of that thing? It just wiggles around with no resistance at all ... the ball joint shaft spins easily ... maybe it is supposed to be that way. Maybe it is simply supposed to tack the axle to the control arm and that is all that is needed to stop axle from shifting laterally. But it seems like there should be a bit more resistance to rotation. Whatever. I guess it looks fine. I think this was an AC Delco joint, pretty sure I did not get it from Detroit Axle.


Conclusion
I liked them. I still like them. Would recommend, especially for stock height WJ.

So why did I replace them? (1) Because I was chasing handling problems and was at the end of my rope; (2) because I wanted adjustable front uppers so I could dial in a better caster angle. So far I feel like the rear adjustable upper did a great job anchoring the rear end by eliminating the ball joint, and the adjustable fronts did exactly what I wanted for caster. Replacing the lowers was more window dressing than anything for me it seems, but like I said, I was getting tired of the handling issue so I shotgunned the whole thing at once.
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This is a good review. Seems that Detriot Axle is quickly becoming one of the major players in aftermarket suspension parts for these Jeeps. I would say you were getting your money's worth out of them.



Thanks for posting these pics.
I am kind of surprised you are recommending these. All of those bushings look bad to me (except for maybe the 1st body side bushing). They're showing plenty of cracks, and delaminating even. Maybe I'm just being picky, but my OEM control arm bushings only looked slightly worse than those after 17 years and 100,000 miles.
I am kind of surprised you are recommending these. All of those bushings look bad to me (except for maybe the 1st body side bushing). They're showing plenty of cracks, and delaminating even. Maybe I'm just being picky, but my OEM control arm bushings only looked slightly worse than those after 17 years and 100,000 miles.
Agreed, they do look a bit worn, but not bad. Some bits look worse than others. That is why I posted all the pics of the bad bits I could find, so y'all could make your own decisions about whether these are worth a try.

Your OEM looked similar after 17 years, but how long did they look like that? Besides, we cannot get OEM anymore, we are stuck with what replacements are available and nearly every rubber bushing I installed that came with Mopar packaging failed on me when the center metal sleeve came out. These held up WAAAAAAY better than the Mopar stuff I bought. Granted I am no expert, but in my experience these held up well.

If my daughter had a WJ, I would put these in and feel good about it. My two pesos.
Agreed, they do look a bit worn, but not bad. Some bits look worse than others. That is why I posted all the pics of the bad bits I could find, so y'all could make your own decisions about whether these are worth a try.

Your OEM looked similar after 17 years, but how long did they look like that? Besides, we cannot get OEM anymore, we are stuck with what replacements are available and nearly every rubber bushing I installed that came with Mopar packaging failed on me when the center metal sleeve came out. These held up WAAAAAAY better than the Mopar stuff I bought. Granted I am no expert, but in my experience these held up well.

If my daughter had a WJ, I would put these in and feel good about it. My two pesos.
Fair enough. It certainly is a helpful metric to have, and I thank you for sharing with such detail.

I think on a stock height WJ these parts would be completely adequate. Any kind of lift however, especially in the rear, seems to set fire to the bushings/ball joint in short order.
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I have picked up a slight clunk in the rear on/off the throttle. Suspect the Ironman UCA is moving around.

So yesterday I decided it was time to remove another 0.5 deg of caster. When I finished with that, I crawled under the back for inspection and retorqued all the CA mounts. All 3 of the uppers had loosened up, so I wrenched them back to factory specs ... Uh ... 70? ft-lb on the body mounts and 105 ft-lb on the flex joint. If they loosen up again, I may go tighter and/or add some thread locker.

Realized I never posted pics of the Ironman UCA in place so here you go ...
https://ironman4x4fab.com/collections/grand-cherokee-wj/products/wj-rear-a-arm



Looking at that last pic, I noticed the flex joint is, uh, well it is not exactly straight in the joint.


So I am going back under there today to see what can be done about that.
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Piece of cake. Loosened jam nut, pried it over a little, braced it, and retightened in position. Better.
Also found one of the other two jam nuts was loose, so I secured it.

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very odd that the flex joint should be rotated like that. It suggests to me that a rotational moment is being applied from one or both of the 'arms'...which means that bushing isn't going to last long. So what would cause that? Doing a lot of 'trick' driving/ ;)

It is also odd that you tightened to factory specs and bolts were loose. Sounds like another1/4-1/2 turn is in order.
I am amazed at how much time you spend wrenching on your vehicle....you have a lift in your garage??
very odd that the flex joint should be rotated like that. It suggests to me that a rotational moment is being applied from one or both of the 'arms'...which means that bushing isn't going to last long. So what would cause that? Doing a lot of 'trick' driving/


It is also odd that you tightened to factory specs and bolts were loose. Sounds like another1/4-1/2 turn is in order.
I am amazed at how much time you spend wrenching on your vehicle....you have a lift in your garage??
Ah ... well more likely is that the joint twisted when I tightened the jam nut during install and I did not notice. Once the nut is tight, the joint is well fixed in position.

Yeah I am not clear on why the bolts were loose. I tightened them and all sounded good, then went out on a rough trail. They may have loosened up again. I might have to use some thread locker. The flex joints on the body seemed slightly more narrow than the stock bushings, like maybe a washer would make for a better fit. Would that cause the bolts to loosen up? Dunno.

No, do not have a lift, spend a lot of time on my back on the concrete floor. Probably too much time. But there are still some things I want to do, so likely more garage time in my future.
So yesterday I decided it was time to remove another 0.5 deg of caster.
Hit my very special bridge today ... got some wobbles. I will be restoring half of the caster I removed. You would not think that 1/14th of an inch on UCA length would be worth worrying about, but I guess it is.

All of this for an extra 2" of clearance. Frankly, I am not sure this is worth all the effort.
Full on DW today. At least I was expecting it. Feeling rather defeated. I should have known better than to start messing with the suspension.
Inspection with a helper turning the steering wheel showed motion in the track bar mount at the body. Ordered KOR bushings.

Until they arrive, I put the old front UCAs back in. I did not have DW until I put the new CAs in ... and did that because I was looking to prevent DW due to low caster. Go figure.
Status: No DW since putting the old UCAs back in. Hit my favorite bridge at speed today, same spot that set it off. Just the barest hint of a wobble, hope the KOR bushings will address that.

It really is fascinating just how sensitive the suspension geometry is.


Also: the Ironman4x4Fab rear UCA is clunking around. I retorqued it twice. I am worried that the bolt is stretching and the head is going to snap off. Need some grade 8 bolts. Anybody know what length and thread pitch these are? I know they are 15mm hex heads ...
Status: No DW since putting the old UCAs back in. Hit my favorite bridge at speed today, same spot that set it off. Just the barest hint of a wobble, hope the KOR bushings will address that.

It really is fascinating just how sensitive the suspension geometry is.

Also: the Ironman4x4Fab rear UCA is clunking around. I retorqued it twice. I am worried that the bolt is stretching and the head is going to snap off. Need some grade 8 bolts. Anybody know what length and thread pitch these are? I know they are 15mm hex heads ...
You're really having quite the go-around with this. I'm afraid I can't help you with the bolt sizes.

Anything visually wrong with the Core UCA's?
You're really having quite the go-around with this. I'm afraid I can't help you with the bolt sizes.

Anything visually wrong with the Core UCA's?
I will just remove one and take it to the hardware store with me.

Nothing looks bad with the Core UCAs, I think they do what they are supposed to do. Bella just does not like them, it seems.
All of this for an extra 2" of clearance. Frankly, I am not sure this is worth all the effort.
I considered a 2" lift for quite a while. I read a lot of posts where everything went great, and some where it was not so great. I guess, in the end, I've decided I'm to old to chase down all the possible issues. I do plan on putting some 3/4" spacers in the front to level things out a bit. I hope you finally get it all figured out though.
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Ok time for yet another update. KOR track bar bushings arrived.
https://kevinsoffroad.com/collectio...-kit-super-hard-durometer-track-bars-bushings

As advertised, they are very stiff. I can squeeze the IRO bushings with my fingers; KOR just laugh at my weakness. In fact, they do not feel much like bushings at all, just very hard plastic.

The IRO bushings look like they are in good condition, really nothing to see but I took pictures anyway.

KOR bushings were proving to be resistant to installation even with Kevin's provided SuperGrease, so I took them over to the 20-ton shop press for encouragement. Yay I got to use it again. Bushings now agree with my way of thinking.

Track bar reinstalled. No pic, it looks much the same, just newer bushings.

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Removed rear UCA bolts to inspect. Yeah, they are in fine shape. I am not stretching them. They are already grade 10.9, that is tough enough.

I did notice that these bolts are not a typical flange head bolt. They have 4 grooves in the tips, see pic, I marked two. Also the bolt is tapered, and the threads are thicker at the tip ... if I did not know better, I would say this looks like it is meant for tapping threads. Makes me wonder what it is actually driven into. Is it a nut? Maybe something else. I know it moves around up there ...

I noticed during install that the flex joints were slightly thinner than the stock bushings. I decided the gap was small so just squeezed the mount a little. Well they keep coming loose, so I stuffed a pair of stainless steel washers in the gap. See pic.

Funny aside ... I was browsing the forum and found a 10 year old build thread ... was it XJPete maybe? Anyway, it was like reading about my own build. Many of the same issues. He even stuffed washers into the UCA mount to fill the gap. We all keep reinventing the wheel.

Cleaned threads, added blue thread locker, re-torqued to 80ft-lb (triple-clicked it), and marked the position with paint so I can see if it moves. See pic.

Rear UCA not currently clunking and front does feel solid. Test drive was good.

Edit: Minor shimmy crossing DW bridge. Confidence low that KOR bushings eliminated the issue.

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I considered a 2" lift for quite a while. I read a lot of posts where everything went great, and some where it was not so great. I guess, in the end, I've decided I'm to old to chase down all the possible issues. I do plan on putting some 3/4" spacers in the front to level things out a bit. I hope you finally get it all figured out though.
Thanks for the vote of encouragement. I do appreciate it.

Agreed, I was hoping it was going to be a breeze. In retrospect, my issues all stemmed from that stupid front UCA axle bushing. Bushing fell apart and I have been chasing it ever since. I just did not think that could possibly be the failure point ... until I took it apart to put in the new CAs. Replacing that one bushing solved 90% of my issues.

If the DW proves to be troublesome, I will probably ditch the whole lift and put the factory package back in. But not yet.

I am getting a little tired of spending so much time working on suspension, though.
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Lift kits can be an fickle mistress for sure, but they usually aren't this bad unless someone is trying to cut corners and do a half a$% job, this is definatley not the case for you Gman. But DW happens as pressure from the road is forced back up the drag link into the steering box backwards. this road force crashes into the outgoing force supplied by the steering box with assist from the power steering pump. the power assist magnifies the forces crashing into each other, and it makes the steering go all crazy, which creates the violent shaking. This shaking can be magnified by the loose parts that usually start the whole process, because they allow large movements of your wheels and tires, which amplifies the backwards forces racing up the drag link. It is a vicious cycle. Loose parts cause abnormal wheel movements, which transfers backwards forces into steering box, then steering box freaks out, and shudders which cause wheel shaking ,which sends backwards forces up the draglink again, only to repeat the cycle.


Do you have a drop pitman arm installed? One of the biggest ways to start this craziness, is to have your track bar and your draglink out of sync with each other. get a magnetic angle finder, and measure your drag link and your track bar. I dont remember exactly what the numbers are, but it seems like we want no more than a 2-3 degree difference between the two. If you have everything correct in your steering and suspension, and you still get DW, it is usually because the steering box itself is worn or loose in some manner. This is very rare, but it DOES happen. Here is a quick redneck test that doesnt cost alot of money. Buy a UNIVERSAL steering stabilizer kit with the clamp on brackets, and add it to the draglink. Bolt one end to the drag link,and the other end to the track bar, and see if this helps. this should stop all the backwards forces from traveling up the draglink and into the box. If this helps, and everything else is good, then i would install a new steering box.



Sorry for the long winded paragraph, but I feel it helps to know the flow of forces and how your Jeep reacts to it when chasing this stuff....It took me a LONG time to figure this out for myself. Before i understood this, I felt like i was peeing in the wind chasing a solution to DW. Hope this helps
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