[cpia84]

First off after months of looking online and seeing a few YJs in person I have finally bought myself a 1990 YJ, 4.2L 5 Speed. It is black with a clean interior and a tan/spice hard top and full hard doors. It came with a 33" spare and 32" BFG A/Ts on the Jeep, the front two are almost slick though. It has the stock axles. There is a SYE installed in the transfer case, which is nice and saved me some money initially. There is also a 2-2.5" lift on it, either an RC or Skyjacker, I cant remember 100% right now. I has a mile marker winch, no remote or power switch though, but it does spin in and out just fine, going to order a remote soon. It also has upgraded bumpers. A few issues were that is supposedly would not go into 4wd and the rear drive shaft was broken. I have been working on it a bit and going through it to see everything i need to work on until the winter when i plan on doing axle swaps and a SOA lift. But until then i still want to drive it and have some fun.

I have gotten the driveshaft fixed by a local shop and i went to install it Sunday and my genius self *sarcasm* tried to hook it up with a broken bolt in the rear yoke so i could only secure it with one strap instead of the normal 2. I am going to tow it to the same local shop to have them either tap and remove the old bolts or replace the yoke. I have a yoke and new straps do either way they go ill be covered. It was a bonehead move of mine but i though i would be able to drive it 15ft from the grass to the driveway so i could put it on stands to get the tires swapped.

I did buy a set of 4 Firestone Destination A/T's that are practically brand new. and i got them for less than the price of 2 new tires. They are 33X12.5R15. I will run these for now but the final setup I want at least 35's. I know the Dana 35 is crap to put it nicely but should i have issues with 33's on there? If so I guess i need to look for axles sooner than later.

I posted in the FAQ with the Z-Gate removal but Im going to post this question here too along with a few others. I removed the Z-gate, very simple and i like the cleaner look of it but i still cant shift from 4Hi to Neutral or into 4Lo. It will move into Neutral but it wont stay there. I am stationary while doing this because my rear driveshaft isnt connected yet but will that make a big enough deal? Also when i flat tow this i know it needs to be in Neutral but with the driveshaft disconnected would it be okay to have it in 2Hi? Ill be able to drive it home once it is done.

I have also noticed it is sometimes a royal pain to get the ignition key to turn when in the "lock" position. is there any easy fix to help rectify this issue? There is an aftermarket steering wheel on the jeep but its just a plain Jane steering wheel and the column is still stock but not sure if any of that is a factor.

It does have a lift, i think it is a skyjacker or RC lift. I think there is a 1" body lift as well but I'm not 100% sure. Can someone tell me how the stock mounts look and i can see if i can save some money from buying new body lift. I did order 1" bent shackles for the front an rear. Do I need to do a MML and T-case/transmission drop? With this setup will i need to do any trimming for 33s? I do plan on going to flat fenders but that isn't an immediate priority.

I will post up some pictures of the Jeep shortly but I have an appointment I have to head off to. I appreciate any and everyone's responses in helping me get my YJ on the road and trails!

-Happy Jeeping!

EDIT/UPDATE (8-May-20): This Thread has turned into my BUILD THREAD. There are still questions asked throughout the thread as with most build threads. I have set out to accomplish my first stage or phase of the build.: 8.8 axle; 4.88 gears; 35in tires; refreshed suspension. There are a few more things planned then its Wheel it while i rebuild some savings for the next phase of the build.

 

[KARamsay]

I would try a bit of lock oil in the ignition.

***
If the transmission case is dropped there will be a ~1" spacer between the frame and the Transmission and the skid/belly pan - typically with a 2.5" lift - it will be dropped.

***
if there is a body lift - there will be a plastic space/spacer between the frame and the body. Typically - stock is robber and ~3/8" - easiest to see at the rear corners or at the front grill.

 

[TSEJEEPERS]

The broken bolt should be easy to get out.
They are not torqued that high. If there is even a little bit hanging out of the yoke just tap on it with a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Once it gets to the point you can get a pair of channel locks on it, it should turn out pretty easy.
Next question would be why the drive shaft is broke.
My guess would be pinion angle.
Is your new drive shaft a CV style one?

 

[cpia84]

The broken bolt should be easy to get out.
They are not torqued that high. If there is even a little bit hanging out of the yoke just tap on it with a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Once it gets to the point you can get a pair of channel locks on it, it should turn out pretty easy.
Next question would be why the drive shaft is broke.
My guess would be pinion angle.
Is your new drive shaft a CV style one?

Ill have to post a picture but it was the u-joint that connects to the yoke that broke, not the actual driveshaft. I have tried to tap the bolt out but it is in the yoke. ill try to post some pictures this evening. The person i bought it from said he had to fix the driveshaft when he got it also. i think that guy only had it for a few months though. it isnt a new driveshaft but just a rebuilt one until i get a new rear axle either a ford 8.8 or a dana 44 then ill get a new driveshaft built. the angle looks good. It is a CV style driveshaft.

 

[cpia84]

I would try a bit of lock oil in the ignition.

***
If the transmission case is dropped there will be a ~1" spacer between the frame and the Transmission and the skid/belly pan - typically with a 2.5" lift - it will be dropped.

***
if there is a body lift - there will be a plastic space/spacer between the frame and the body. Typically - stock is robber and ~3/8" - easiest to see at the rear corners or at the front grill.

Thanks ill be sure to try this and check everything out.

 

[Siva283]

For the yoke bolt left handed drillbits are your friend. I had to snap off when I threw a driveshaft that shattered my transfercase. They still came right out with left hand drill bits

 

[cpia84]

YJ Photos

Here are some of the photos ive take so far and things ive done. Not much at all. Still working on getting it driveable. I work on the Jeep when i can but most of my free time is spent working on the master bathroom for the house we have been remodeling. I hope to get the jeep to the shop today so they can tap the broken bolts for me since i just dont have time. I am sure i could do it if i had some LH drill bits but the master bathroom is the primary focus.

Here is the jeep:

 

[cpia84]

On the road!

I got the driveshaft fixed and ive been driving it the past few days. There are definitely some general maintenence things that need to be taken care of. Valve cover leaks, i know a shock. The rear main seal might be leaking too but not 100% sure yet. i plan on cleaning everything up underneath and seeing what actually leaks. Fluid changes are definitely happening soon, to include spark plugs, wires and cleaning the carburator. I know if i need to do the rear main seal that ill be doing the clutch as well. The gauges are all a bit fluid. They bounce around all over the place. I am not 100% sure what the correct temperature it reads but i havent driven it for more that 15minutes yet. I know the fluid is topped off but ill do a coolant flush when i do fluids as well. AC is on the list too since it is HOT in NC and i like to have that comfort.

I found some potential axles. i dont know too much about them yet but i do know they are Dana 44s from a 1970 something Wagoneer. What all would be involved in rebuilding these axles and getting them setup for the YJ? I know i would need to regear/locker, disc brake conversion, SOA perches, and lug conversion. Anything else im missing? Also prime and paint so they look pretty. Also is $400 a good deal for the pair?

If the jeep has a body lift the bushings are shot. so ill be replacing all of them as well. It is a work in progress but it is progress! Also plan on swapping tires onto the Jeep this week

 

[Toastmaster]

The Dana 35 should be OK on 33's with light - moderate wheeling. You are on borrowed time if the D35 is locked with 33's.

If you haven't already done the ignition 'tune up', look up the teamrush ignition upgrade. Pretty simple and worthwhile, IMO. I also swapped the old carb out for a Howell TBI on my 4.2l and it runs really well.

If you are going to replace the rear main seal, you can actually do it by just dropping the oil pan. There's a write up online and a few videos on youtube on how to do this.

$400 is not bad for the pair of D44's. I think the D44's off the Wagoneer are low pinion, not a big deal but the ring & pinion are not as strong as a high pinion D44. You should not need to do a lug conversion if front & rear axles have matching lug patterns.

 

[cpia84]

The Dana 35 should be OK on 33's with light - moderate wheeling. You are on borrowed time if the D35 is locked with 33's.

If you haven't already done the ignition 'tune up', look up the teamrush ignition upgrade. Pretty simple and worthwhile, IMO. I also swapped the old carb out for a Howell TBI on my 4.2l and it runs really well.

If you are going to replace the rear main seal, you can actually do it by just dropping the oil pan. There's a write up online and a few videos on youtube on how to do this.

$400 is not bad for the pair of D44's. I think the D44's off the Wagoneer are low pinion, not a big deal but the ring & pinion are not as strong as a high pinion D44. You should not need to do a lug conversion if front & rear axles have matching lug patterns.

the Dana35 is open and i dont plan on locking it. The 44s however i will. Low pinion will be okay i guess. i was hoping to find some HP front axle but it will be okay for now.

do you have a link for teamrush ignition upgrade. right now im just compiling a list of what i need/want to do while i work on the bathroom in the evenings. the Jeep is on the bottom of the list of projects at the moment.

I think the oil pan needs a seal too but id like to do the clutch kit anyways so if im doing the rear main seal i would do all the maintenence so it would be less to worry about later.

 

[Toastmaster]

Here's the link to JeepHammer's post on the ignition upgrades, lots of info here : https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/i-6-teamrush-upgrade-definitive-669495/

You can pickup the parts individually, or CRT makes a kit you can buy for a little more $$ - https://crtperformance.com/shop?olsPage=products/1986-1995-ford-5-dot-0l-302-48k-powerboost

A HEI distributor is also an option, but for me - following Jeephammer's guide with new wires, rotor, and bigger cap + an MSD has really got things running smoothly. I left the stock motorcraft ignition module in the jeep too, and it's easy to switch between the MSD box and the stock box in case of failure.

 

[cpia84]

Here's the link to JeepHammer's post on the ignition upgrades, lots of info here : https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/i-6-teamrush-upgrade-definitive-669495/

You can pickup the parts individually, or CRT makes a kit you can buy for a little more $$ - https://crtperformance.com/shop?olsPage=products/1986-1995-ford-5-dot-0l-302-48k-powerboost

A HEI distributor is also an option, but for me - following Jeephammer's guide with new wires, rotor, and bigger cap + an MSD has really got things running smoothly. I left the stock motorcraft ignition module in the jeep too, and it's easy to switch between the MSD box and the stock box in case of failure.

Thank you for the information. That will definitely will be an upgrade. not sure how soon it will happen but Ill hold off on jsut doing plugs and wires and actually do the upgrade. i have noticed my Jeep losing and bouncing in power so JeepHammer's explaination for the upgrade makes perfect sense. I do need to address some wiring while i am working on the engine bay so ill be sure to do a clean install.

I found a built dana 44 rear end for $400/obo. Its out of a 1979 Ford. Upgrades include 4:88 gears, Eaton locker, HD axle shafts, Warn hubs, and braided extended length brake lines. I might go with this for now and see if i can find a decent HP Dana 30 or HP Dana 44. This axle is also only 40mins one way vs almost 3hrs for the front and rear waggy D44s. I know i can find a Dana 30HP from an XJ at the local JY. besides 4.88's are the gears i plan on going to anyways so I think its a good deal.

 

[Mechman71]

Nobody mentioned it, so I figured I'd chime in. Your ignition lock is likely stiff because your actuator rack is stiff and/or the starter actuator rod is bent. Ask me how I know - I'm starting my Heep with a rocker switch because my rod finally snapped and jammed the switch so that I can't turn the key to start. You have a Delco-Remy GM style column and sadly you're going to have to pull it apart and find then fix the issue before it breaks on you, too. There are several write-ups here on the forum, the search box is your friend! I'd recommend downloading the FSM too. Depending on if you have a tilt steering wheel or not, the repair will either be annoying but straightforward or a mess that you may prefer to foist off on a pro.

 

[Mechman71]

Oops, I forgot to mention, I've found that the accelerator pump piston cup inside the Carter carb is very susceptible to our ethanol laced fuel. The rubber swells and curls, making the piston virtually useless. Happily the kits are around $20-$25 and pulling it apart for a thorough cleaning and refreshing is usually enough to get you back on the road for under $100. If you're comfy pulling apart the carb that is! If you do pull it apart, don't lose the two ball bearings in the body (don't turn it over until you've lifted them out with a magnet) and make sure you note which one goes where - one is larger than the other. You'll know what I mean when you pop the lid off the carb body, they're up near the venturi, under the idle mixture jets plate (the ones that clog and affect your idle). :smile2:

 

[cpia84]

Nobody mentioned it, so I figured I'd chime in. Your ignition lock is likely stiff because your actuator rack is stiff and/or the starter actuator rod is bent. Ask me how I know - I'm starting my Heep with a rocker switch because my rod finally snapped and jammed the switch so that I can't turn the key to start. You have a Delco-Remy GM style column and sadly you're going to have to pull it apart and find then fix the issue before it breaks on you, too. There are several write-ups here on the forum, the search box is your friend! I'd recommend downloading the FSM too. Depending on if you have a tilt steering wheel or not, the repair will either be annoying but straightforward or a mess that you may prefer to foist off on a pro.

Thank you for the information. I had done some reading about the steering column so it looks like it might have to try this. I do want a tilt column but ill see what i can find if i do a complete swap. Either way i do need to take the time to take this apart. i have used some wd-40 on the key and worked in back and forth and the ignition definitely turns much easier now. I havent had any issues with it the past week but im sure it is just a temporary fix.

Oops, I forgot to mention, I've found that the accelerator pump piston cup inside the Carter carb is very susceptible to our ethanol laced fuel. The rubber swells and curls, making the piston virtually useless. Happily the kits are around $20-$25 and pulling it apart for a thorough cleaning and refreshing is usually enough to get you back on the road for under $100. If you're comfy pulling apart the carb that is! If you do pull it apart, don't lose the two ball bearings in the body (don't turn it over until you've lifted them out with a magnet) and make sure you note which one goes where - one is larger than the other. You'll know what I mean when you pop the lid off the carb body, they're up near the venturi, under the idle mixture jets plate (the ones that clog and affect your idle). :smile2:

Ethanol in our fuel definitely is an issue with older vehicles. I will be mindful when i do the carb rebuild. I have decided that is the route i am going for now, $15 kit versus the $390 for a Motorcraft 2150. I am sure a new carb will happen one day but for now i plan on fixing what i can to make it reliable and then eventually do upgrades like that. I need to see if i still have my magnet or if that is another tool i need to buy.

Thank you again for all of your help.

 

[cpia84]

Update

First off thank you to everyone that has been giving me help and information.

I put the Jeep on Jackstands last night and took the wheels off. I am bringing the 33's with me and the wheels to a local shop to have them swapped over. I am ordering a rebuilt kit for the carb, a valve cover gasket, spark plugs and oil pan gasket from Rockauto. Then i am getting the CRT Team Rush upgrade and a HEI distrubor from eBay. And i also ordering new lug nuts because when taking the wheels off last night they arent all the same size, the threads are all 1/2x20 but they are 19mm and 21mm lugs. so im ordering a whole new set. Hopefully once all these parts come in Ill be done with the master bathroom.

I need to decide if i am going to get the 79 ford rear dana 44 that is built or the front and rear wagoneer dana 44s that would need to be built. the price is the same the work load between the two is quiet different. Im leaning towards the built d44 and then look for a HP D30/44 or just keep the D30 i have and just regear it and upgrade the brakes and put a new diff cover on it.

I am bad about taking pictures but ill try to get some and post them of the progress on the Jeep.

 

[cpia84]

i got the 33s swapped over on my lunch break. ill get them on the jeep tonight and post pictures. i should have new lugs this weekend but ill use the old ones for now.

 

[cpia84]

Here's the link to JeepHammer's post on the ignition upgrades, lots of info here : https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/i-6-teamrush-upgrade-definitive-669495/

You can pickup the parts individually, or CRT makes a kit you can buy for a little more $$ - https://crtperformance.com/shop?olsPage=products/1986-1995-ford-5-dot-0l-302-48k-powerboost

A HEI distributor is also an option, but for me - following Jeephammer's guide with new wires, rotor, and bigger cap + an MSD has really got things running smoothly. I left the stock motorcraft ignition module in the jeep too, and it's easy to switch between the MSD box and the stock box in case of failure.

Did you do the Nutter Bypass? I am looking at rebuilding the BBD Carb and was wondering if i should do that first then the Nutter Bypass then the Team Rush upgrade. I did order the HEI Distributor as well.

Also which MSD box did you go with. I like that idea. I will keep the stock module in as well.

Did you have a lot of idling issues when the Jeep was cold prior to doing these upgrades? Mine usually takes a few times to get going and keep running.

 

[Mechman71]

While you're getting your hands oily, it might not be a bad idea to consider dropping in a new timing chain. I've used Cloyes chains in the past and have been very happy with the results. 258's seem to chew through sprockets and chains every 150k miles or so. I think it's because they make all that fun torque down low in the power band, and the stock units can take it for just so long (like 25-30 years or so LOL). There's a good chance yours is due, too.


Poor idle can have many root causes, from clogged idle tubes, old plugs, a beat timing chain, worn distributor, tired coil, even a worn bearing in the water pump. Sometimes swapping in new parts makes an incremental improvement in your idle. Start with the obvious and maintenance level repairs, then move on to the more exotic possibilities. You'll get there!

 

[cpia84]

While you're getting your hands oily, it might not be a bad idea to consider dropping in a new timing chain. I've used Cloyes chains in the past and have been very happy with the results. 258's seem to chew through sprockets and chains every 150k miles or so. I think it's because they make all that fun torque down low in the power band, and the stock units can take it for just so long (like 25-30 years or so LOL). There's a good chance yours is due, too.

Poor idle can have many root causes, from clogged idle tubes, old plugs, a beat timing chain, worn distributor, tired coil, even a worn bearing in the water pump. Sometimes swapping in new parts makes an incremental improvement in your idle. Start with the obvious and maintenance level repairs, then move on to the more exotic possibilities. You'll get there!

Good idea. I hadnt even thought about timing chain but there is 143k on the odometer and im sure the time chain hasnt been addressed in the past. I'll do my research to find the right chain. Is there anything i need to be aware of when doing the timing chain or is it pretty straight forward?

Basic maintenance is my priority and that is why i ordered all of that maintenance parts. I havent looked at the cooling system yet. I havent ran the Jeep longer than 20mins yet so ill have to see if i have any issues with it on longer trips. I am sure ill do a radiator upgrade and cooling system overhaul one day. I also dont really trust any of the guages in the jeep but i havent seen the Jeep get above 190* from what ive observed. The temp and fuel sensors bounce around a lot. I do plan on dropping the fuel tank and checking the fuel sending unit. I know they can be an issue especially since the jeep is 29+ years old. Like ive said it is a work in progress and lots to do.

Also i drove the jeep today and the 33's rub just slightly. i still have a shackle lift i need to throw on there so ill do that. I will probably take the plastic fenders off if needed. I do plan on doing flat fenders for the front and rear anyways. that just may happen sooner than later.